Thanks, Don—and all who responded. So, as when NG, there are no replacement options for internal parts? Toss the whole box and find another? I initiated this query as I have about 120 degree slop in our ’64 300K tilt wheel when driving. Fortunately it tracks pretty well, but??? I had not seen anything that bad since my ’49 Ford and assumed there were wear items within. And, that the wear items may be scarce to unobtainable. Now I know what questions to ask. Happy New Year and onward into it we go. Rich Barber Awaiting a bomb cyclone of wind and rain. From: 'Donald Verity' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> I have had no issues with the ball wearing, as I already said. This is not a GM box. Never seen and piston or housing wear. The wear surface is huge on these. There is no spec that I know of. The worm shaft is supported on the upper end by a bearing in the end piece. Gear play is checked before the box is taken apart. If the clearance is tight in the center and sloppy at the extremes, it's NG. Don Hi Don, Thanks for the comments. One thing I love-hate about this hobby is that you ask 10 people the same question and you get 20 different answers! One of the well know steering rebuild houses insists that the balls wear and they have a large stock of balls for selective fit on each box… What acts as the worm shaft “bearings” in these boxes? They hydraulic pressure? Have you seen any issues with the piston to housing clearance, meaning wear? Is there a piston to housing wall wear specification? Lastly, how can one tell by looking at the piston or sector shaft gear cuts if they are beyond use? James The 1 turn in on the adjuster is to seat the gears after a rebuild. The proper pre-load is 3/8 - 1/2. The most wear on the teeth is going to be at the two extremes of travel. That would be where the most load is. When adjusted properly, the center may be slightly tight, and there should be minimal play at the extremes. A new box would be the same all the way across. I have seen the gear teeth wear enough to be unusable. The factory manual says to replace them as assemblies. Ball wear should be minimal. As soon as the wheel moves, hydraulic pressure is pushing the pistons. I have never had to replace them. They are not really made for that kind on repair. It is not like a saginaw box. I did the one in my Dodge truck once, and that was enough for me. Don Since I will be sending my box in for rebuilding when I swap it out for my spare, I have been calling and talking to the repair shops. Some will actually have a discussion about exactly what they do and some others are not too interested in going into great detail. The one common theme I have gotten out of the shops is that the actual worm and sector gear faces usually are not so worn as to need replacing. I have been told that the balls inside the piston that ride on the input shaft wear and that is the main wear point. The “worm” gear is really two sets of “worm” gears. The first worm on the input shaft and uses balls like the old Saginaw worm and roller manual boxes and is inside the piston. The second worm is on the outside of the piston and acts on the sector shaft (the roller) like the old Gemmer manual boxes. In the old Gemmer design the gears can wear out of they are over adjusted or just get a lot of miles on them. I assume that can happen on these boxes, but that “inner worm” from what I am told is what takes the wear hit. Perhaps Don Verity can shed some light on this subject. I know that when I bench tested the spare unit the other day to see if I could follow the service recommendation on adjustment on the bench I could not. There was no way to get that 1 plus more turn to mesh the gears. If one tried the box would just lock up. What I did notice was that the input shaft and piston could be felt moving forward and back while I tried to adjust the sector shaft screw. It moved a lot. In an old Gemmer manual box that is a sure sign that the worm bearings need adjusting. In this box, I assume that it means that the balls inside the piston have worn. I wish there was more specific information on the rebuilding of these boxes, like down to the level of the factory blue prints on all the parts. James We had one , rebuilt by somebody , where seal was in wrong side of bronze bushing Yes can be done Sent from my iPhone
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