RE: {Chrysler 300} 1960 300F Wheel Cylinders
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RE: {Chrysler 300} 1960 300F Wheel Cylinders



There are those that just don’t like DOT 5 fluid, and are suspicious of it.  My experience with having it in my 300G for 44 years proves them wrong.  Yes, I have heard of issues with hydraulic brake light switch failures, but the G has a mechanical brake light switch, so I can’t speak to that, except to say replace the switch with a mechanical type if the problem presents itself. 

 

Remember, if you have DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid, it is recommended to flush and replace at 2-4 year intervals, depending on the humidity in the area the car is stored/used.  Cars that don’t get driven much just sit and suck in moisture from the air as DOT 3 & 4 are both hygroscopic, although frequent driving will heat up the brakes and help to reduce the moisture in the system.  2-4 year flushes end up being a lot of maintenance, and many people don’t flush at that frequency and subsequently risk brake failure.  Either way, brake failure is much less likely with brass or stainless steel cylinder linings, as opposed to stock cast iron cylinders. 

 

Also, If DOT 5 is spilled on any painted surface, there will be no damage, as there will be with DOT 3 & 4, because the silicone won’t react with paint.  In addition, silicone has a higher boiling temp than DOT 3 & 4, so it’s safer for mountain driving.  

 

Having written that, you must take extra effort to thoroughly clean any surface that may be contaminated with silicone prior to painting. Also, when changing over to DOT 5, completely flush out the old fluid, it’s best not to mix 3 & 4 with 5.   DOT 5 is NOT recommended for use with anti-lock brakes due to a higher likelihood of creation of air bubbles when anti-lock vibrations occur in the system.  Never shake a container of DOT 5 and pour s-l-o-w-l-y when adding.  It does like to hold air in solution, so handle it carefully.    

 

Bob J

 

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Dyke Ridgley
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2023 2:17 PM
To: mguarneri@xxxxxxx
Cc: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 1960 300F Wheel Cylinders

 

I have used White Post for over forty years for cylinder sleeving and rebuilding. I am aware of their warnings about silicone fluid, but I always use it and never told them, and have had no problems at all.

 

Dyke Ridgley

Ridgley Racing

5500 Walmsley Rd

Decatur, IL 62521

 

217-865-2300 p

217-865-2309 f

 

 

 

 

On Wed, Jan 11, 2023 at 3:34 PM mguarneri via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

As an fyi, I just called White Post.  For my '56 Windsor & 61G they would charge $225 per master and $95 per wheel cylinder.   Also, they fully guarantee their work if you do NOT use DOT 5 and if you plan to use DOT 5, you should notify them in the order.

 

John


In a message dated 1/11/2023 2:21:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:

 

White Post Restorations IIRC

 

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Ray Jones
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2023 11:48 AM
To: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Nick Taylor <nicksgaragesd@xxxxxxxxx>; Marshall Larson <granitledge@xxxxxxxxx>; Jim Birr <jebirr@xxxxxxxxx>; Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Ray Jones <1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 1960 300F Wheel Cylinders

 

There was a company in WV that resleeved them and M/C also. Not sure if still in business.

Ray

 

On Wed, Jan 11, 2023 at 8:30 AM John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Wheel cylinders are pretty basic cast iron   I would expect any that you find new would work . Be sure you are aware Rand L are unique . 

I assume you have the pits in the bottom from glycol fluid left in too long ? Very smart to change them . That is a disaster waiting to happen . And not uncommon , happened to me . Water settles out the there once glycol is saturated with water , makes a pit under lip of seal . And that always  happens given enough time . . Why Mercedes requires change of glycol brake fluid every few years . I ignored that as too conservative on an 80 300 TD wagon , cost me 2000 in brake parts rusted inside after ten years .causes leaks in drum brakes , stuck calipers on discs . 

One of the main reasons I love silicone in our cars despite fussiness of getting in right . 

Ideal for stored cars , it will not absorb water why military uses it . And rubber loves it . 

If you shake it or get air in it you have to wait months . Really 

 

I found large cans on line long ago military surplus .

John 

Sent from my iPhone

 

On Jan 11, 2023, at 6:08 AM, Nick Taylor <nicksgaragesd@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 

We got the centric ones for a 1961 Belvedere and the lower fronts have the bleeders too close to the steering. Also, it took three different sizes of wrenches for the bleeder screws. 

 

On Wed, Jan 11, 2023, 2:01 AM Marshall Larson <granitledge@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I have the Centrics in three cars. Functioning properly.

 

On Tue, Jan 10, 2023 at 8:29 PM Jim Birr <jebirr@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi everyone.  Looking to pickup new wheel cylinders for my F.  Found following sources and rough prices:

  • Andy Bernbaum - $40 ea
  • Rock Auto - Dynamic Friction $16.60/ea
  • Rock Auto - Centric $18/ea
  • MoParPRO - All six for $179
  • NAPA only has rear for $65

Anybody have any experience with any of these vendors for brake cylinders?  Andy B. seems a bit pricey.   Not sure if Dynamic Friction or Centric products are any good.  Heard some negative on other Centric products.  MoParPro is an unknown.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Jim

 

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Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?

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