Re: {Chrysler 300} window parts 300K

It's a ton of time and effort, but if one takes the time to remove all the old grease and contamination from tracks and parts, then properly maintains correct geometry when putting things back together, along with new leather washers and plastic bushings where needed, plus lubricating the motors while they're out, you can get these old windows to move up and down like veritable guillotines! Mine are now pretty quick, but I saw some really fast ones at Don Verity's house a year or so ago. There's less current draw when things are not old, crappy, and misaligned, too. The better the installation, the less physical stress on all the components involved, so things won't strip out or change shape, either. I still have the window seal/roof rail seal alignment issues since my G is a convertible, but the windows are much faster than the ones in my Hurst, which have never been taken apart. I don't even know what the motors and mechanisms look like inside a 70 C-body, but I presume they tried to improve the design over the early 60's type, but you wouldn't know it by having a race between my G windows and my Hurst windows. I guess that's a future project down the road, but the interior in my Hurst is beautiful, and I get a little nervous thinking about tearing into those door panels for the very first time.

On Fri, May 5, 2023 at 5:00 PM John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi , at the risk of stirring some stuff up , I was always unhappy with the switching arrangement 57-64(? later ? ) with our PW motors that have only one field coil in use at a time ( 1/2 the torque possible ) . This is so the same + polarity of DC can make it go ccw or cw ( the field coils are effectively wound in opposite directions reversing the magnetism )

they did that to avoid polarity reversing relays ($) at each motor or central control point , but a heavy current at the switch results , cooks the switches as we all know and marginal torque . That concept went down the drain , all cars now have reversing relays small wires to the control switch . Also the very common problem with the nylon outer gear letting go , gear cases breaking , output pinion wearing its bearing hole eggshaped etc —and water ruining motor due to the poor seal washer fit at top ,— that issue turns the brushes and bearing at bottom ( when output end is up) to a pile of rust . Can’t fix it .
After fixing the gear failure with aluminum bronze cnc , ( my main problem on F ) the motors are still a bit marginal on rear coupe windows especially with new un flocked rear rubber gaskets at roof rail .
Too much friction , more a rubber guy issue than motor but same end point , have to leave fit looser than ideal

So somewhere someone told me a later mopar PM style much smaller motor ( no field — powerful big magnet) sort of fits , sold by Dorman / Rock too . gearbox is integral with this motor , physically looks like the Jeep GC power window motor but has a pinion like ours instead of Jeep cable windlass . I do not have original app or number handy , but i ordered one . Looks like it could work , I could do reversing adapter relay , on electrical side , small PC card — but the pinion tooth spacing is slightly off .
That pinion hassle discovery stopped me , but there is a path forward there , to good power windows . For instance Re - machine sector gear ? It did not look feasible to take apart the motor , to get at a pinion change , but maybe
Finding out R and L etc info is important , in considering this - it always confused me — and parts numbers are not a good way as i found that some cars had a longer motor body in the rear window app to get more torque . Different numbers will interchange . Or maybe a stock service motor, some of which are covered in black undercoating and are larger too . We need a chart of position of motor / gearbox as mounted in 4 places in various 300 years , and thus determine interchange of the gearbox assembly with motor , not the whole regulator . They may be all the same gearbox / motor arrangement , in 60 at least .I never ran into any R and L issues . but not sure . Just positioned differently ?
Also if anyone knows up to what years this dual field / heavy switch design was used ( i think they all had green and brown motor wires ) that might lead us to a later B body service motor that fits . maybe gearbox too .

This issue is only going to get worse …
jkg

Sent from my iPhone

On May 5, 2023, at 4:49 PM, Nick Taylor <nicksgaragesd@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Here is the parts book section for the gearbox. Code 23-41-33, Mechanism. Same part for both sides of front, as well as rears on 4-door hardtops and wagons. Fits back to 1960 but I have seen variations in the mounting bosses for a steel support plate that is used on some of them. Some have two holes, some have three. This only matters if you're using the support plate. Even the ones with the support plate will snap off the gearbox mount. I had one that had a big hose clamp holding the motor to the support plate. I've also enclosed a picture of a 1964 300 4-door hardtop right front door showing the motor and support plate. As well as the disassembled one from the left front door.

On Fri, May 5, 2023 at 11:59 AM 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi All,

I opened up the passenger door and found another amateur repair job. Not as bad as the driver’s door but still will need a lot of work with a jury rigged mount bypass. No doubt cracked like the other side and many on my other 300K’s over the years.

I sent a note to the usual suspects asking for pricing on a good gear unit, the scissor unit and the motor. What I got was:

Window regulator, $175.00

Gear drive assembly, $275.00

Working motor, $200.00.

Now I know it has been 25 or more years since I was working on 300K’s but over $600 for the window guts? That just seems a lot and we all know the gear boxes cannot be known to be good at the motor mount boss with a magnaflux inspection for cracks and taking it apart to inspect the gears.

At this point I have three options, pay the $600 plus, go out and see what a couple of doors complete may cost, hunt for some NOS parts or…

I may well decide to spend the money and have the gear boxes scanned and machined out of billet aluminum to make that problem go away forever.

If anyone has a gear box for the drivers’ side door and/or the passenger side door ( I still have not confirmed if the gear boxes are left and right specific or not) that is in good condition and wants to sell it send me an email.

James

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