RE: {Chrysler 300} RE: lower control arm bushing - Problem
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RE: {Chrysler 300} RE: lower control arm bushing - Problem



I am aware that the torque on the bolt is SUPPOSED to keep the inner from moving. But that assumes that the bolt fits the hole. With the flat across the entire bolt, the bolt can move in the direction of the flat and the two ends, the bolt head and the nut will have to hold against that movement.

 

The factory design had the bolt just a little smaller than the inner sleeve ID. With the flat it has a lot more. IF the bolt sleeve interface wants to move, if the ends cannot not hold it against the stress, the unit moves very little with the factory design. With the replacement part, it can move much more. A degree or more of movement can toss off the alignment.

 

What I may do, if I need to use the replacements is to mill a part that would take away the long flat. It just needs a tack weld then ground off to keep it on as once in place it cannot go anyplace.

 

On the control arm bushing, I have sent an email to Rock Auto and to Delphi asking for a measurement of their part number TD4833W.

 

If anyone has a 1960 t0 1964 NOS (MOPAR) or an old pre-1990 MOOG bushing on the bench and could give me a three decimal point OD, that will help establish what the interference fit is supposed to be.

 

James

 

From: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, October 4, 2023 07:51
To: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: apozdol@xxxxxxxxxxx; Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} RE: lower control arm bushing - Problem

 

James  

more on this later ,( part of something quite important)  but it makes no difference that that flat goes all the way across  ; you have to understand how that works .

The bolt is not a moving pivot ,— i relearned by recent experience that the pivot action is within the rubber ,,and important to the suspension action in many ways , specifically keeping the normal upper ball joint clearances  in close contact in all vertical motions , like upward, especially as normal wear happens  . The rather high torque spec on our   control arm bolts is to bend the frame ends inward so that the inner cylinder of the bushing is clamped or frozen to the frame . Also why don’t tighten to full torque unless loaded with car weight to center that rubber  spring action . Given that,  the shape  of the bolt core is immaterial . 

However I think there is a design error of sorts there , as the spec torque is too close to max allowed of a bolt of that size having 360 degree threads . As a result the bolt is often stripped . NEVER leave it “ good enough “ as then the inner sleeve will rotate on the bolt  and start to saw through it . Got that? 

 

I suggest finding  a tall profile nut , or we have in a pinch used an acorn nut to gain a long thread  and so securely reach the axial clamp load on the inner sleeve, caused by the high torque  ; a thick washer there might help move the nut out to new threads using old parts too . Why are you changing the bolt? 

Anyway heads up . 

More later , on this re: upper ball joint . 

Sent from my iPhone



On Oct 4, 2023, at 10:12 AM, 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:



I got it as part of a front end package. I am not sure of the origin. When did you get the ones from rock auto?

 

I talked with the guy at Rare Parts but they do not have any in stock to measure. He said that .005 should be enough interference fit. Not .015.

 

On another note, I purchased some new camber-castor bolts from rock auto for the car and they are not the same. They “rock” in the control arm bushings as the “flat” on them goes all across the bolt not just on the end as the factory ones do. Another waste of money.

 

Rock auto no longer is taking phone calls so trying to get them to measure a set of bushings is a waste of time. Also, Moog does not show it in their catalogs anymore, there low end maker may and I think that is what I have.

 

James

 

From: apozdol@xxxxxxxxxxx <apozdol@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, October 4, 2023 06:55
To: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} RE: lower control arm bushing - Problem

 

Did you get them from Rare Parts? They sent me the wrong ones-twice! Same problem!

I seem to recall I just went to Rock Auto and ordered the Moog bushings.

 

 

 

From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, October 4, 2023 8:41 AM
To: Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} RE: lower control arm bushing - Problem

 

Anyone with any ideas short of milling the bore open?

 

From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, October 2, 2023 15:33
To: Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} lower control arm bushing - Problem

 

Hi All,

 

This hobby is getting less fun as more and more of the simple things are becoming a whole day affair.

 

I went to press in my lower control arm bushings on the ’64 and they will not go.

 

The control arms are all bead blasted, painted and ready to go save putting in the lower control arm bushing and its associated big pin. I tried to use the press and right away it did not feel correct. I pulled it out and tried it by hand with a hammer to get it started and it still did not want to go in.

 

I have the Chrysler – Miller special tool for it.

 

I then measure the bore on both control arms, and they are 1.502 to 1.503 in diameter. I then measure the bushing and it is 1.518 to 1.520 inch. The difference is over .015 inch!

 

I would expect .002 to .004 at the most for an interference fit. But 0.015 inch? It will never go in.  WTF?

 

Of course, if I got back to the seller of the front-end kit, I would get the, “…I have never had anyone complain…”  horse dung.

 

Anyone recently do lower control arms on a ’63 or ’64 and have a manufacturer and part number that works?

 

Thanks, James

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