RE: Engine problems---HELP

[tom hecht <baddd65@xxxxxxxxx>]

i would probably go one step further and say your
"vacuum advance can" should be pointing at about 12:30
or 1:00 looking down onto the distributor, (from the
passenger side)with the gear slot horizontal, the
rotor should point to roughly 5:30.
what keeps throwing me is when you say the rotor is
pointing at #1 cyl, you do mean #1 wire on the cap,
right?

if the car runs for ten seconds, even crappy, then
your timing (the direction of you vacuum can)could
well be off far enough for that to happen.

fwiw, i think the avenger has power valve protection.

tom
65 satellite

--- Earl Helm <earlh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


-------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Roger,
> 
> I hope you have done all I am going to suggest, but
> lets cover all the
> basics.
> First, make sure your really at TDC. Remove the
> spark plug on number one
> hole - Drivers side front cylinder - rotate the
> engine until both valves are
> split - 
> what I mean by that is both are loose and the piston
> is at the top of the
> stroke - 
> check your timing mark and make sure it does
> indicate TDC. If not, you have
> a 
> cam installation issue. If it is, when you drop the
> distributor in - if you
> have the 
> pump - distributor gear installed correctly - the
> rotor should be pointing
> to about
> 2 o'clock looking at it from the rear (inside the
> car) ie on the passenger
> side looking
> from the front of the motor about 7 o'clock. If not,
> and your sure your have
> TDC right,
> and your intake and exhaust valves are split, it
> does not matter, it just
> won't be factory 
> correct - this confuses many people - refer to your
> factory manual for
> correct installation
> of the pump/distributor drive - it is not hard, the
> slot should be inline
> with the crank shaft.
> By having it installed like that, then your rotor
> will be in the factory
> position. If it is not,
> it is no big deal to wire the plugs starting from
> where ever the rotor is
> pointing.
> By starting your plug wiring at where ever the rotor
> is pointing then follow
> the firing 
> order - which you have right - then the cam,
> distributor should be correct.
> As a double 
> check run your firing order and make sure all your
> valves are split when
> each cylinder
> is at TDC.
> 
> If your starting the motor, and it quits as soon as
> you move the key from
> the start position
> to the run position, then you have a bad resistor.
> If it is backfiring - I
> would suspect that 
> you have the plug wires incorrect - that would be my
> first assumption...
> 
> Earl
> 
> 1964-Sport Fury, 383. #1cyl at tdc, timing mark on
> crank pulley just below
> the 0 as the book says, rotor facing #1 cyl, firing
> order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
> counter clockwise. It will not run for more than 10
> seconds, sounds like
> crap, Tried everything except valve adj. New Lunat
> Voodoo cam, 494 lift, 1.6
> roller rockers, ported & polished heads, Holley 770
> St Avenger, which
> probaly needs a new power valve as it has been
> backfireing every time i try
> to start it. Any suggestions from anyone as why this
> thing won't run
> smoothly? No Mopar people around my area. Had some
> Chevy guys try to helpo
> and i had to re-do all they did just to fir it up
> temp. It just will not
> run, and when i put the valves in, i know they are
> adjusted right! HELP????
> 
> --
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> 
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> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e.,
> send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well
> as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This
> practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total
> volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to
> Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 



	
		
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