RE: Disc brakes.

[mcwheels@xxxxxxxxxxxx]

Bill I'm sure your problem is the bore size of your master cylinder. If 
you go to some online brake manufactures some of them list the bore 
sizes for various masters. New ones aren't that expensive. (I've never 
had good luck with a rebuilt) Here's a quote form the Disc o Tech 
article:

 What to do if your car doesn't have a power booster? Simple. Forget it! 
Unless you have a 5,000-pound wagon, you'll do just fine without it. You 
can tailor the pedal pressure to your liking by playing with master 
cylinder diameters. Smaller cylinder = less pedal pressure required. 
Larger cylinder = ?harder? pedal, less travel. In any case, if you are 
either staying with, or swapping to, a manual cylinder, be sure that the 
unit you use has the machined recess in the back of the piston for the 
rubber pedal-pushrod retaining ring. Most rebuilt master cylinders we've 
inspected all have this recess.

And being that you don't know what year calipers you have here's another 
quote:

The second variable is caliper piston size. The slider-type calipers 
used on 1973-?75 A-bodies used a smaller piston: 2.60" as opposed to the 
more common 2.75". 

(I think the 76 Dart used the larger 2.75" caliper)

One other thing I should mention but it's probably not your problem 
since you said you were able to bleed them ok. It doesn't matter if the 
calipers are mounted in the front or the back, Mopar did it both ways. 
But you have to make sure the bleeder is at the top of the caliper or 
they will never bleed properly. It's easy to accidently switch the 
calipers from side to and wind up with the bleeder in the wrong place. 
(Found this out the hard way when I worked for Goodyear and disc brakes 
first came out.) Also there's a proper sequence for bleeding. The 
farthest away from the master first and the closest last. This usually 
means RR, LR, RF, and LF.

Hope this helps, Dan


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