RE: Disc brakes.
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RE: Disc brakes.



Thanks Dan,
I did get the rebuilt calipers for a 73-76 A body car. Just don't know
the piston diameter of the MC. And I'm sure I have the bleeder on the
top. I did bleed them the way you described. I've bleed brakes many many
times in my life. I may try a different MC before I go and buy a whole
new disc system.

Bill
On Fri, 13 Apr 2007 14:15:40 +0000, mcwheels@xxxxxxxxxxxx said:
> 
> Bill I'm sure your problem is the bore size of your master cylinder. If 
> you go to some online brake manufactures some of them list the bore 
> sizes for various masters. New ones aren't that expensive. (I've never 
> had good luck with a rebuilt) Here's a quote form the Disc o Tech 
> article:
> 
>  What to do if your car doesn't have a power booster? Simple. Forget it! 
> Unless you have a 5,000-pound wagon, you'll do just fine without it. You 
> can tailor the pedal pressure to your liking by playing with master 
> cylinder diameters. Smaller cylinder = less pedal pressure required. 
> Larger cylinder = ?harder? pedal, less travel. In any case, if you are 
> either staying with, or swapping to, a manual cylinder, be sure that the 
> unit you use has the machined recess in the back of the piston for the 
> rubber pedal-pushrod retaining ring. Most rebuilt master cylinders we've 
> inspected all have this recess.
> 
> And being that you don't know what year calipers you have here's another 
> quote:
> 
> The second variable is caliper piston size. The slider-type calipers 
> used on 1973-?75 A-bodies used a smaller piston: 2.60" as opposed to the 
> more common 2.75". 
> 
> (I think the 76 Dart used the larger 2.75" caliper)
> 
> One other thing I should mention but it's probably not your problem 
> since you said you were able to bleed them ok. It doesn't matter if the 
> calipers are mounted in the front or the back, Mopar did it both ways. 
> But you have to make sure the bleeder is at the top of the caliper or 
> they will never bleed properly. It's easy to accidently switch the 
> calipers from side to and wind up with the bleeder in the wrong place. 
> (Found this out the hard way when I worked for Goodyear and disc brakes 
> first came out.) Also there's a proper sequence for bleeding. The 
> farthest away from the master first and the closest last. This usually 
> means RR, LR, RF, and LF.
> 
> Hope this helps, Dan
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
> 
-- 
  William Cole
  wedge64@xxxxxxxxxxx

-- 
http://www.fastmail.fm - Does exactly what it says on the tin


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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