Re: Rad repair
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Re: Rad repair



Knock on wood.Just don't pull it out next time...
--- Schuyler  Wrobel <sky62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> 
> Don that's great you were able to fix it yourself. I
> guess I've been  
> lucky, after reading all these posts on radiators.
> there's a couple  
> of shops I have used here in Pasadena, one is Crown
> radiator, they  
> solder on a tag when they fix a rad. and if it ever
> leaks, you bring  
> it back and they fix it for free. sometimes they
> charge a little,  
> depending on the abuse, but never another $100.00. 
> this other shop I  
> found after scoring the radiator of my dreams, out
> of a 65-66  
> plymouth 383 car with AC, at Pick-a-part $25.00. I
> also found the  
> shroud for it cast aside in the dirt $10.00. anyway
> it was late in  
> the day and Crown was closed and I wanted to get it
> pressure checked  
> so I went to this other shop. their was this elder
> guy there, gettin'  
> ready to close, but he went ahead and checked it for
> me, for free!  
> and cleaned it all up too. so I install the rad
> after I painted it  
> etc..., works great car runs cooler then ever. so I
> decide to get a  
> nice chrome cap for it. that was a mistake, cuz it
> was a 16lb. cap.  
> and sure enough, a small leak started to develop at
> the seam in the  
> front, just like yours, Don. I decided to take it
> back to this guy,  
> he seemed to know alot about rads, and told me
> 13lbs. cap tops, for  
> this type of rad. he charged me about 70.00 to fix
> it, and he painted  
> it too. cool!
> shortly there after, I was at a car show and someone
> points out a 3"  
> long splinter of wood, shaped like a dart, stuck
> right in the center  
> of my rad. WTF??
> I figure, no big deal, just stuck in the cooling
> fins, right. so I  
> pluck it out. and no such luck, it starts to pee a
> perfect stream of  
> coolant. soo, I take it back to the ol' guy figuring
> I'm gunna' loose  
> that rod and a little cooling capacity... but,
> although it's not as  
> pretty, the guy was able to save it! and only
> charged me $40.00.
> anyway, that's my rad story. hope I didn't bore you
> all to much, I  
> just can't believe these outrageous prices for
> radiators, either. I'm  
> still under $200.00 after my screw ups. and the
> radiator been workin'  
> great for over a year since the last incident.
> ...knock on wood and  
> count my blessings.
> 
> 
> Schuyler
>   62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
>  
>
<http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
> FYI - I Do the Decal designs for the Poly head 318
> and more! email me  
> with your needs -
>   <sky62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 
> 
> 
> On May 15, 2008, at 1:40 PM, Don Dulmage wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > Just completed a rad repair on my 63. Every year
> the top tank would  
> > develop a crank at the seam on the front side. I
> take it to the rad  
> > shop who made it for me and they hit me $100 every
> year to repair.  
> > I only ran a 13 lb cap and last year a 7 lb  so it
> didnt male  
> > sense.  I went to my old employer (1970) in the
> machine shop  
> > business as we also had a rad shop back then. I
> asked hom what he  
> > knew and he said remove the top tank cmpletely ,
> clean and tin  
> > everything then reinstall and solder.
> > Sounded scary but I did it. found paint on the lip
> of the core  
> > where it kept splitting. Looks like it was never
> cleaned and tinned  
> > in the first place so only a bit was holding. I
> did my best but i  
> > am no rad man however  just reinstalled it and so
> far so good. Time  
> > will tell. I am not going to get too cocky yet but
> I hope I have  
> > it . Ticked me off to find a whole 3 to 4 inches
> painted and  
> > untinned. I hope this fixes it. Anyway am always
> interested in new  
> > experiences. Never had a rad apart myself before.
> (And Hope I never  
> > do again) but it was still interesting.
> > Don
> > Author of
> > Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
> > Old Reliable (Mopar)
> > http://altonapublicschool.faithweb.com/
> >
> > http://seniordragster.bravehost.com/index.html
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> >
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person  
> > -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car
> transactions and  
> > negotiations as well as other personal messages
> only to the  
> > intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public
> address. This  
> > practice will protect your privacy, reduce the
> total volume of mail  
> > and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. 
> Thanks!
> >
> > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
> >
> >
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e.,
> send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well
> as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This
> practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total
> volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to
> Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
>
> 
> 
> 


George



      


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 












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