Re: alternator/electrical problem

["A&A Autoparts@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <aaautoparts@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Look at the firewall connection  and connections at amp gauge--I've cured 
dozens with this problem--HemiDon
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Knud-Erik Holm" <kebh@xxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 10:40 AM
Subject: SV: alternator/electrical problem



Just and idea, on old European cars, when electrical problems are not easy
to explain it is always a bad - to body/metal problem. The -current runs
through the body. But I suppose it's an obvious idea...

Knud Holm
Denmark ´62 Sport Fury

-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: Brian Safford [mailto:hzf9vv@xxxxxxxxx]
Sendt: 20. juli 2008 23:01
Til: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Emne: alternator/electrical problem

Looking for tips on why the battery terminal of a brand new alternator
shows the same ( 12.25 ) volts as the battery posts, but the field
post measures 10.25 ...

Been struggling with this issue for a few days.

Other measurements ... field post on the voltage regulator is same as
field term on alternator ( 10.25 ) but the other side is 11.75 ... how
can it be higher?

Alternator tested "good" on the test stand at O'Reilly's here in Nashville
...

The ammeter (?) gauge shows left of center ( towards the 'D' ) when
engine is idling ... and goes a lot farther towards the 'D' when
anything gets turned on like the radio or lights.

Thanks in advance for any tips ...

Brian Safford
'62 Dart 440
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

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