RE: new electronic distributor problems

[laborboy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]

Thank you for the advice. I put on the new stock voltage regulator I had 
(from Year One), and now the alternator puts out about 12.5 volts with 
all accessories on. That seems to have corrected the problem--must have 
been the old regulator and resistance you mention. The old regulator 
contacts were quite pitted.

As for the starting issue, I tracked it down to the solenoid post on the 
firewall relay. The NSS switch and wire was fine. This is a new relay 
(Year one), but perhaps it has gone bad.


Rich Kinsley wrote:
> 
> I bet you anything your neutral safety switch issue is that the trans is 
> 
> out of adjustment. There are a couple easy things to do without 
> adjustment to make it work. The simple way is to take your car out of 
> park. Put it in reverse and then put it back in neutral or in drive and 
> back to neutral and park. Then try it. If this works it's the 
> adjustment. If you're stuck you can jumper the wire from the trans on 
> the relay to ground and it will start. I think it's the upper drivers 
> side wire.
> 
> Regarding your ignition, I had lots of problems with my old electrical 
> system and it messed with my ECM/ECU whatever. You should get the newer 
> solid state voltage regulator. That will help. I gotta think you really 
> have enough juice from your alternator even if it's 35amps but the age 
> which causes resistance through bad connections and corrosion can cut 
> down your voltage. If you put a big alternator on an old system you are 
> begging for trouble. Further down in the posts Schyler mentions what he 
> did and that's probably a good way around the old wiring issue.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
> 
> 
> =====================================================================
> laborboy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> > 
> > Installed the Mopar Performance electronic ignition conversion kit with 
> > MP high-voltage coil in my 64 Dodge Polara 383 engine. Works fine, but 
> > when there is a power draw such as lights and/or AC running, the car 
> > stalls when the car is idling in drive. This is not due to low idle, but 
> > 
> > 
> > it seems to be an electrical problem. I know the new coil puts out a lot 
> > 
> > 
> > more voltage--is there some adjustment I need to make? The voltage 
> > regular is the original--would a new one make a difference? Seems like 
> > it's not sending enough voltage through to feed the ignition system. 
> > 
> > Also, perhaps an unrelated problem. Shortly after install, I had 
> > problems starting the vehicle--won't turn over, seems like a neutral 
> > safety switch issue. Any connection, you think?
> > 
> > Zack in Chicago
> 
> 
> 
> Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies


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