RE: B body disc brake

[Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

As far as shifting have someone hold the accelerator to the floor and adjust
the kickdown rod so it is all the way back with no slack.  It should shift
at 25 & 35 under normal acceleration.  Even though it's been welded on if it
shifts at about the right speed you should be OK.  When you get the time or
energy to re-pull the tranny pan do your adjustments then and drain the
converter.  If you pull the dust cover from the front of the tranny and turn
the engine over by hand or tapping the starter you will see a drain plug on
the converter through a hole in the flywheel.  Pull that plug and you will
get up to about ten quarts of fluid out of it depending on it's size and of
course what you get out of the pan.  When you get around to doing it we can
cover it more in depth and a quick way to adjust the bands.  (-;

          
 Herb 
 
1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361
1959 Coronet 326 Poly
1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1
1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
1970 Challenger RT 440 - 4 Sale
1999 Durango SLT 5.9
2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1
St. Louis, MO.
 
http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
  
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Butch Edison
Date: 1/16/2010 11:11:14 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: B body disc brake
 
Thanks Herb. I used rubber bushings on this car. I have a set of polys that
I'm going to use on my other one, just to see if I notice a difference. This
car has the original ball & trunnion U-joint setup, so will hazard a guess
that this was the original (or at least correct) transmission for the car.
 
The magnet was a dollar sized washer, which sounds right per your note. No,
I didn't adjust the bands (arghh) because when I saw the metal burrs (all
very small strands), I figured "just stop the leaks and have it rebuilt".
The linkage has been welded on at least once, so that looks like a good
opportunity to make the thing shift correctly. I'll post a different note on
that, so I don't screw up this thread. Appreciate the follow-on remarks
about the pads. Can't wait for the rain to stop so I can get it out on the
road for a few hundred miles!
 
/Butch/Ferndale, WA
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Herb [mailto:zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 2:45 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: B body disc brakes
 
 
 
Congrats!  Had the same experience with my 63 Sport Fury restoring the front
& rear suspension!  Did you use rubber or poligraphite bushings?
 
 
 
727s came with a magnet about the size of a thick silver dollar with a hole
in it in the pan and don't be too worried about the chia look!!  That is
just normal wear & tear.  Tranny shops have been scarring people for years,
just like you did yourself, by showing customers the metal flakes in the pan
or on the magnet while shaking their heads and wondering how they made it to
the shop!!  Now, if you have big chunks that's a different story.  The
shifting correctly problem is more than likely your kickdown linkage.  If
adjusted correctly, under normal acceleration, it should shift at 25 & 35
MPH.  Did you adjust your bands when you had the pan off?  Now's a great
time to ask he says to him self... (-;  Before I speculate any more what is
the shift problem?
 
 
 
You probably wont feel the front or rear applying unless your way off.  Do a
couple of panic stops and make sure the rear is not locking up before the
front.  Also expect to go through two or three sets of front pads to a set
of rear shoes over time.  If not too much rear braking.  Front should do
about 80% of the braking.
 
 
 
What say you?
 
 
 
         
 
  Herb
 
 
 
1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361
 
1959 Coronet 326 Poly
 
1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1
 
1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
 
1970 Challenger RT 440 - 4 Sale
 
1999 Durango SLT 5.9
 
2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1
 
St. Louis, MO.
 
 
 
http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
 
 
From: Butch Edison
 
Date: 1/16/2010 12:04:06 AM
 
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
 
Subject: RE: B body disc brakes
 
 
 
Well, this part of the car's restoration is done. All new suspension in the
rear, restored steering coupler and power steering, restored front end
linkage A-to-Z, disc brake conversion complete. It may quit along the
highway somewhere, but it's safe to drive now and very pleasurable to drive
as well. The front end tech said it dialed in like a dream and it rides like
one too. No more leaks from the engine or tranny oil pan. Now.... on to the
A727. It doesn't shift correctly and when I had the pan off, found that the
previous owner had put a magnet in the pan and it looked like a chia brillo
pad with all the steel particles on it.
 
 
 
If there is anything odd, it is that the proportioning valve is wide open,
yet the car stops like I'd expect it to. I thought I'd have too much back
braking with the valve open all the way. I'll drive it some, then start
cutting fluid to the back brakes to see what happens. I have not done any
hard stops yet. Should I actually feel the fronts apply first?
 
 
 
Thanks,
 
 
 
/Butch/Ferndale, WA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!
 
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1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
 
 
 
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

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