RE: test and tune

[Ron Soldani <ronsold102@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

It's an old racer (Grandpa's Toy II, has frame connecters) and it has some
cancer (not to bad considering) in front of the rear wheel openings.
Underside is clean no rot and has a 440 and hemi built 727. Still has the
clutch pedal in the car with original seats along with it. Going back with
orig paint and interior (have fender tag) so I'm thinking to put it back as
close to orig as possible. Have a 4 spd out of a 68 RR to put in it, but I
like the auto (I don't do clutch so well anymore).  So I'm thinking if I
can't put a correct date coded and 426 cast  # block in it I will use a 440
and auto for a while ( keep looking for 426 block) and enjoy it with as
close to factory as possible and not too many detractor modifications. I'm
not looking to wheel and deal with the car just respect the breed and make
it as kick ass as possible to keep. I'm just spooked about the 100 over 426
wedge block my long time racer friend says will work and not overheat. Sonic
test is probably the way to go, but it's already together and I will
probably have to buy it if I'm going to sonic test it. Thanks for all the
feedback and ideas everybody.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dodger7998@xxxxxxx [mailto:Dodger7998@xxxxxxx] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 7:24 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: test and tune



You still have not said what your intentions for the car are, and with out  
knowing what direction you are headed it is hard to give advice as to the 
best  way to go, I personally would probably go with a stock 440 block, and 
start  gathering all of the max wedge parts I could find for it, with the 
hopes of  coming across a 426 block some day at which time the MW parts
could 
be switched  over to, I think that you will find a 440 with a MW top end on 
it to be beefy  enough to supply plenty of fun as a weekend racer, and lots 
of OHHHs  in it  for the cruises when you open your hood
 
 
In a message dated 5/25/2010 9:21:27 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
ronsold102@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:


Thanks Don I agree with what you have said.  Unfortunately the 426 block has
already been hogged out. I just haven't  bought it yet because of the over
bore. I also have a 62 413 block, but am  wary about taking it .070 and it's
not the 426 block the car came with. The  car is in the registry and was #10
of 13 426 single 4 bbl. Cars according  to Covier(sp). If I don't buy the 
426
block I will probably have to go the  stroked 440 route due to cost and
unavailability of original 426 wedge  blocks. Unless some one has a 426 
wedge
block out there.
Ron  

-----Original Message-----
From: Donald Gallimore  [mailto:dongallimore@xxxxxxx] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 8:02 PM
To:  1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: test and tune

First advice  - don't mess up an original 426W car.  There weren't that many
and  they do and will command a premium.

I don't speak as an expert but a  100 over 426 is probably going to be too
thin a wall.  I've have a  .070 413 to make it a 426 and that seems to be
acceptable from what I have  read over the years.  I suggest you look into
ultrasound testing  with someone who understands the signifcance of the data
if you are going  to go that route.  Or find a 440 and save that correct 
date
coded  426..

Akron Don Gallimore



----- Original Message  ----
> From: Ron Soldani <ronsold102@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To:  1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Tue, May 25, 2010 8:43:02 PM
>  Subject: RE: test and tune
> 
> 
Hi  mike
Thanks for the details, again an 
> awesome  running machine. One of the
64s I have is a 426 4 spd wedge car from  
> the factory and I'm debating
whether to put a 426 wedge block  that's been 
> bored .100 (440 .030 over
pistons) for originality or  take a 440 and stroke 
> it. I'm concerned about
the amount of  overbore on the orig 426 block 
> (overheat not strong enough
etc).  Anybody out there have suggestions. I 
> haven't bought the 426  short
block yet, but it has the right casting numbers 
> and date  code for the car.
Anyone have experience with the 426 wedge blocks 
>  being bored out that much?

Ron 

-----Original 
>  Message-----
From: mike creglow [mailto:>  ymailto="mailto:mcreglow@xxxxxxxxx"; 
>  href="mailto:mcreglow@xxxxxxxxx";>mcreglow@xxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Tuesday, May  
> 25, 2010 10:25 AM
To: >  href="mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx";>1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject:  
> Re: test and tune


hi ron,

Drive  train:
Motor: 
> 400 block with 4.15" Eagle crank, Eagle 440  connecting rods,
Ross forged 
> pistons (12.5 compression), gap-less  rings, Cam Motion
custom grind mech flat 
> tappet cam  (.640"
lift/ 283 duration @ 50), Indy SR heads that have been 
>  ported to max
wedge size (valves
2.19/1.81), Indy single plane intake,  
> Holley dominator (8896), MSD
ignition system
w/ digital 6-plus,  crank 
> triggered ignition, TTI 2"/2 1/8" step  headers.

Transmission: A-727 w/ 
> Griner reverse pattern valve  body, Ultimate
(A Lopo understudy) 5100 stall 
> converter, bolt in  sprag, stock gear set,
ultra-bell.

mike

On 
> Mon, May  24, 2010 at 4:05 PM, Ron Soldani  <>
ymailto="mailto:ronsold102@xxxxxxxxxxxxx"; 
>  href="mailto:ronsold102@xxxxxxxxxxxxx";>ronsold102@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
>
>  
> OHHHH  YEAHHH awesome Mike. Could you let me know some engine  details? I
> 
> just gotta 64 Fury that was a drag racer and I  need to put a fresh 
> motor
in
> it. I'd be kool if I could  get some runs like that. Thx 
>  Ron


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> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other  personal 
messages
only 
> to the intended recipient, not to the  Clubhouse public address. This
practice 
> will protect your privacy,  reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
the 
> content signal  to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

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----
Please  address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
directly to  that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as 
well  as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the 
 Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce 
the  total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.

Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion  Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and  
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.  


--
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.