Re: More Sub Frame Connector Questions

[Paul Hamaday <phamaday@xxxxxxxxx>]

I just noticed that I sent the pics to the 62-65 site & you won't be able to see them. Send me your address & I'll send them there.

Hammer


--- On Fri, 9/17/10, MO ( Steve Mick) <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: MO ( Steve Mick) <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: More Sub Frame Connector Questions
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Friday, September 17, 2010, 11:08 PM
> 
> Paul,  Of course the manufacturer makes their product
> sound good . The thing 
> I liked about them was that you don't have to cut out some
> of the rear floor 
> pan, and the connectors are boxed in using the floor pan as
> the top. 
> HOWEVER, it looks like in some places that they are not
> "thick" enough. 
> where the floor pan takes a dip.  I just assumed they
> did not show from the 
> side. I would like to look additional at your connectors.
> The pics on the 
> 62-65 site  does not show enough for me.  I
> notice that yours do not extend 
> up through the rear floorpan as much as others I have
> seen.
> I do not know just how much power it takes to buckle
> quarter panels and I do 
> not want to find out with MY car.( will be around 375-400
> HP.)
> 
> I have about 7 years on you--do you have any frame
> connectors to hold me 
> together long enough to do everything I usta plan on
> doing???
> 
> {Steve Mick}
> http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Paul Hamaday" <phamaday@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 9:03 PM
> Subject: Re: More Sub Frame Connector Questions
> 
> 
> If the TOP side follows the contours of the floor pan then
> they must be 
> visible from outside the car.
> If a car needs connectors, then it needs GOOD connectors.
> You don't 'kinda 
> need' connectors. Why take the time to weld in 'semi
> strong' connectors?
> You also have to remember our cars are getting old & as
> they grow old they 
> are losing structural integrity. If you're going to modify
> an aging car give 
> it a solid foundation.
> I'm not trying to sell my connectors. I couldn't possibly
> produce enough for 
> our community alone. But damn, I'm 57, could OUR old bodies
> produce more 
> power without strengthening our frames?
> 
> Hammer
> 
> 
> 
> --- On Fri, 9/17/10, MO ( Steve Mick) <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
> 
> > From: MO ( Steve Mick) <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: Re: More Sub Frame Connector Questions
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > Date: Friday, September 17, 2010, 9:40 PM
> >
> > As I understand, they are not needed till horsepower
> is
> > approching 400 and using hard bite slicks. There is
> > another type that interests me--It is sheet metal U
> channel
> > that the top side is trimmed to follow the contour of
> your
> > underneath floor pans. They are then welded on the
> > ends and along the sides, to the floor-pan. They do
> > not show from the outside of the car. You have torque
> > boxes?? I thought they come only on convertibles and
> Hemi
> > cars.. They may be all you need...................MO
> >
> > {Steve Mick}
> > http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Bailey"
> <bb64d440@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 8:19 AM
> > Subject: More Sub Frame Connector Questions
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > The recent mention of sub frame connectors here
> rekindled,
> > my thoughts of adding them to my ’64 Dodge B-body
> two door
> > HT…when I get ‘round…to replacing the floor
> pans. But
> > I have some questions on type(s) and installation
> location.
> > First, I seem to remember reading about two
> commercially
> > available types, one type being constructed of round
> tubing
> > (pipe) with end brackets for bolting (or welding) and
> the
> > other is sheet metal formed to a U channel. Then there
> are
> > those who fabricate their own from rectangular steel
> tube.
> > (I might consider the later route myself.)
> > I should also mention that I don’t intend this to be
> a
> > racecar yielding tons-o’-torque. It’ll be a nearly
> stock
> > 383 w/4bl, 4 speed for summer weekend cruising, though
> I
> > will want to “stomp on it” occasionally.
> > Next is mounting location. The fact that the front
> sub
> > frame rails do not line up directly with the rear
> frame
> > rails, what is the recommended tie-in point’s front
> to
> > rear? And should there be any additional strengthening
> to
> > the torque boxes?
> > Should the connectors run at a slight angle to
> match-up
> > with the ends of each sub frame rail?
> > Looking for some fuel for thought via
> > recommendations…including none at all?
> > Thank you Gents!
> > Dave B
> > --
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one
> > person -- directly to that person. I.e., send
> > parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as
> other
> > personal messages only to the intended recipient, not
> to the
> > Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
> your
> > privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
> the
> > content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
> >
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one
> > person -- directly to that person. I.e., send
> > parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as
> other
> > personal messages only to the intended recipient, not
> to the
> > Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
> your
> > privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
> the
> > content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
> >
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>