From: MO ( Steve Mick) <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: More Sub Frame Connector Questions
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Date: Friday, September 17, 2010, 11:08 PM
Paul, Of course the manufacturer makes their product
sound good . The thing
I liked about them was that you don't have to cut out some
of the rear floor
pan, and the connectors are boxed in using the floor pan as
the top.
HOWEVER, it looks like in some places that they are not
"thick" enough.
where the floor pan takes a dip. I just assumed they
did not show from the
side. I would like to look additional at your connectors.
The pics on the
62-65 site does not show enough for me. I
notice that yours do not extend
up through the rear floorpan as much as others I have
seen.
I do not know just how much power it takes to buckle
quarter panels and I do
not want to find out with MY car.( will be around 375-400
HP.)
I have about 7 years on you--do you have any frame
connectors to hold me
together long enough to do everything I usta plan on
doing???
{Steve Mick}
http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Hamaday" <phamaday@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 9:03 PM
Subject: Re: More Sub Frame Connector Questions
If the TOP side follows the contours of the floor pan then
they must be
visible from outside the car.
If a car needs connectors, then it needs GOOD connectors.
You don't 'kinda
need' connectors. Why take the time to weld in 'semi
strong' connectors?
You also have to remember our cars are getting old & as
they grow old they
are losing structural integrity. If you're going to modify
an aging car give
it a solid foundation.
I'm not trying to sell my connectors. I couldn't possibly
produce enough for
our community alone. But damn, I'm 57, could OUR old bodies
produce more
power without strengthening our frames?
Hammer
--- On Fri, 9/17/10, MO ( Steve Mick) <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
> From: MO ( Steve Mick) <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: More Sub Frame Connector Questions
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Friday, September 17, 2010, 9:40 PM
>
> As I understand, they are not needed till horsepower
is
> approching 400 and using hard bite slicks. There is
> another type that interests me--It is sheet metal U
channel
> that the top side is trimmed to follow the contour of
your
> underneath floor pans. They are then welded on the
> ends and along the sides, to the floor-pan. They do
> not show from the outside of the car. You have torque
> boxes?? I thought they come only on convertibles and
Hemi
> cars.. They may be all you need...................MO
>
> {Steve Mick}
> http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Bailey"
<bb64d440@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 8:19 AM
> Subject: More Sub Frame Connector Questions
>
>
>
>
>
> The recent mention of sub frame connectors here
rekindled,
> my thoughts of adding them to my ’64 Dodge B-body
two door
> HT…when I get ‘round…to replacing the floor
pans. But
> I have some questions on type(s) and installation
location.
> First, I seem to remember reading about two
commercially
> available types, one type being constructed of round
tubing
> (pipe) with end brackets for bolting (or welding) and
the
> other is sheet metal formed to a U channel. Then there
are
> those who fabricate their own from rectangular steel
tube.
> (I might consider the later route myself.)
> I should also mention that I don’t intend this to be
a
> racecar yielding tons-o’-torque. It’ll be a nearly
stock
> 383 w/4bl, 4 speed for summer weekend cruising, though
I
> will want to “stomp on it” occasionally.
> Next is mounting location. The fact that the front
sub
> frame rails do not line up directly with the rear
frame
> rails, what is the recommended tie-in point’s front
to
> rear? And should there be any additional strengthening
to
> the torque boxes?
> Should the connectors run at a slight angle to
match-up
> with the ends of each sub frame rail?
> Looking for some fuel for thought via
> recommendations…including none at all?
> Thank you Gents!
> Dave B
> --
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
only one
> person -- directly to that person. I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as
other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not
to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
the
> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
only one
> person -- directly to that person. I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as
other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not
to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
the
> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>
>
>
>
>
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
person -- directly to that person. I.e., send
parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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