Re: Alternator Confusion - Need Advice
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Re: Alternator Confusion - Need Advice



Yep,,,,,, either regulator will work on either alternator, the electronic is a better unit though
 
In a message dated 1/6/2012 9:30:18 A.M. Central Standard Time, hoodoovoodooray@xxxxxxxxx writes:
Thanks Herb.

For anyone else to comment too:

So I'm clear on this.  It's ok to run a 1970+   alternator that would
normally go to an electonic regulator to a pre 1970 mechainical
voltage regulator?  Because that is what it looks like has been done
on my car.  ( the link has a couple pics)   Unless that voltage
regulator is like the later flat electronic regulators in the shape of
a  1962 mechainical?



On Jan 6, 4:05 am, Herb <zephyr9...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> The non insulated field is just that, grounded.  For your application that
> is correct!  The insulated one is the one you plug the voltage regulator
> into.  That's a way to convert a two field alternator to work in place of
> the correct single field alternator, so your good!  That mod will not
> shorten or adversely affect the longevity of the alternator what so ever,
> actually that is how the correct alternator is wired internally.
>
> As far as the splices, probably a GM mechanic fixed it, as they would call
> it fixed!  The bulkhead connectors & ammeter are weak points on our cars
> especially when people use heaver amp alternators then our cars wiring
> harness were designed to support.  Amps cause heat at weak points, or bad
> connections and will burn in time.  It wont happen over night, but time is
> not on a cars side with too large an alternator.   Also the bulkhead
> connector has a propensity to hold moisture and corrode causing anomalies
> also.   My 63 Sport Fury had splices and jumper wires everywhere when I got
> it.  It took the better part of a Saturday afternoon to clean and repair the
> bulkhead connecters and undo the jumpers the previous owners installed, then
> I had to re-rap the harness.  The person that did that to your car, had more
> time than sense.  Depending on your intended use of the car, if it's a
> driver and it's working, leave it.  Or better yet get a couple rolls of good
> quality electricians tape and re-rap the exposed wires making the wiring
> modifications less obvious.  If it's going to be a restoration, the ends are
> available and if you look, non butchered bulkhead connectors are not to hard
> to come by.  O, Ya, get a good schematic for your car before you get
> started!!
>
>    Herb
>
> 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> 1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban Wagon 318 Poly
> 1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon 318 Poly
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 7.0L
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> 1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
> 1979 Dodge Aspen R/T Sport Wagon 360
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
> St. Louis, MO.
>
> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
>
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Eric R
> Date: 1/6/2012 12:39:53 AM
> To: The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse
> Subject: Alternator Confusion - Need Advice
>
> So, It looks like I have a 1970+ alternator that has been wired to a
> pre 1970 Voltage regulator.  Does this setup really work for very
> long?    Also, the wiring has been cut at the firewall conectors and a
> splice of about 8"' has been added for about every wire coming out of
> there.  What would cause someone to do that?  Fixing a massive
> short?   .. Oh, one last question.  On the 1970+ alternator one of the
> field screws holding the clip on terminal has an insulating washer and
> the other does not.  Should they both have one, as in, did I lose one
> somehow?
>
> Here's the pics:  Thanks.
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/104998594489637903139/AlternatorPic#
>
> --
> --
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
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> signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.htmlandhttp://www
> 1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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