Re: Alternator Confusion - Need Advice

[Eric R <hoodoovoodooray@xxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks Herb.

For anyone else to comment too:

So I'm clear on this.  It's ok to run a 1970+   alternator that would
normally go to an electonic regulator to a pre 1970 mechainical
voltage regulator?  Because that is what it looks like has been done
on my car.  ( the link has a couple pics)   Unless that voltage
regulator is like the later flat electronic regulators in the shape of
a  1962 mechainical?



On Jan 6, 4:05 am, Herb <zephyr9...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> The non insulated field is just that, grounded.  For your application that
> is correct!  The insulated one is the one you plug the voltage regulator
> into.  That's a way to convert a two field alternator to work in place of
> the correct single field alternator, so your good!  That mod will not
> shorten or adversely affect the longevity of the alternator what so ever,
> actually that is how the correct alternator is wired internally.
>
> As far as the splices, probably a GM mechanic fixed it, as they would call
> it fixed!  The bulkhead connectors & ammeter are weak points on our cars
> especially when people use heaver amp alternators then our cars wiring
> harness were designed to support.  Amps cause heat at weak points, or bad
> connections and will burn in time.  It wont happen over night, but time is
> not on a cars side with too large an alternator.   Also the bulkhead
> connector has a propensity to hold moisture and corrode causing anomalies
> also.   My 63 Sport Fury had splices and jumper wires everywhere when I got
> it.  It took the better part of a Saturday afternoon to clean and repair the
> bulkhead connecters and undo the jumpers the previous owners installed, then
> I had to re-rap the harness.  The person that did that to your car, had more
> time than sense.  Depending on your intended use of the car, if it's a
> driver and it's working, leave it.  Or better yet get a couple rolls of good
> quality electricians tape and re-rap the exposed wires making the wiring
> modifications less obvious.  If it's going to be a restoration, the ends are
> available and if you look, non butchered bulkhead connectors are not to hard
> to come by.  O, Ya, get a good schematic for your car before you get
> started!!
>
>    Herb
>
> 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> 1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban Wagon 318 Poly
> 1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon 318 Poly
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 7.0L
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> 1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
> 1979 Dodge Aspen R/T Sport Wagon 360
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
> St. Louis, MO.
>
> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
>
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Eric R
> Date: 1/6/2012 12:39:53 AM
> To: The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse
> Subject: Alternator Confusion - Need Advice
>
> So, It looks like I have a 1970+ alternator that has been wired to a
> pre 1970 Voltage regulator.  Does this setup really work for very
> long?    Also, the wiring has been cut at the firewall conectors and a
> splice of about 8"' has been added for about every wire coming out of
> there.  What would cause someone to do that?  Fixing a massive
> short?   .. Oh, one last question.  On the 1970+ alternator one of the
> field screws holding the clip on terminal has an insulating washer and
> the other does not.  Should they both have one, as in, did I lose one
> somehow?
>
> Here's the pics:  Thanks.
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/104998594489637903139/AlternatorPic#
>
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