RE: Brakes need pumped to work, why?

["Daniel McCormack" <mcwheels@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Eric the Dart MC you used is for front disc rear drum brakes correct? The
rear chamber is larger than the front and the rear chamber goes to the front
brakes right? Assuming all that is correct do you know what size bore that
Dart MC has? Years ago I converted a 56 Ford F-100 to a torsion bar front
suspension from a Chrysler Cordoba. (yes there's a kit out there to do that)
I used the disc brakes from the Cordoba and a Dart MC and ran into the exact
problem you're describing. Turns out the bore of the MC was too small for
the Cordoba calipers. Switched to a larger bore MC and the problem was
solved. The other possibility is that the MC is defective. Was it brand new
or a rebuilt? I've never had any luck with a rebuilt MC.



-----Original Message-----
From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Eric R
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2012 7:13 PM
To: The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse
Subject: Brakes need pumped to work, why?

I converted to AAJ discs. Used a 1976 Dart  dual master cylinder. No
leaks anywhere.

I bench bled the master cylinder best I could.

I bled the brakes using a hose and check valve into a jar of brake
fliud. This works on all my other vehicles.  I ran quite a bit of
fluid through to make sure.

Brake pedal goes straight to floor but will pump up quickly and hold
pressure.  As soon as I let up and pedal comes all the way to the TOP
the brakes are gone again and need to be pumped.  If I just let up a
little I don't lose them.

I then gravity bled them all for a few hours..  Two rears at same
time , then two front at same time.

Still get the same result.

I thought I read something about the Dart M/C  losing pressure
somehow?  Or, is it air in m/c?  Bad m/c?

Any advice is great ...  I would loooove to drive this car oneday.


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