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I think that just about every major brand of oil has it's own secret
assembly lubrication, and if polled am sure that they could all come up with
people that would swear by it as well as at it, some of the old timers even had
their own secret concoctions, most of which were a mix of STP and what ever
brand of oil they were going to end up using and a little bit of white
lithium grease. I believe that the secret is to make sure that there are no bare
(dry) parts left sitting in the engine especially if it is going to be sitting
for any amount of time before starting. If you have coated all your
bearings and rings with most any oil, and used what ever has been sent to you
with your new cam for it's starting coat that you will be just fine, I like
to fog the inside of motor with oil as well just to keep any surface rust
from starting to appear because of all the attention that was devoted to
installing clean parts in the engine, and actually having left them unprotected
from the condensation that will occur unless you have an environmentally
controlled storage place better than mine.
Lubricate the pressure relief spring on the oil pump with regular oil, and
pack the pump gears with petroleum jelly, this will aid in you prelube before
start up.
Prelube before start up can be done several ways, one of
the old list members swore by using an IV type system where he would attach a
hose between a jug of oil suspended above the engine so as to siphon it down and
into the oil pressure gauge fitting for like 24-36 hours so as to fill all the
oil passages and float the air pockets out, I prefer to use a battery
powered drill driving the oilpump to push the air out and fill the galleys,
watching the oil gauge, and turning the engine about a 1/4 turn
ever so often so as to line up all of the oil passages during this time.
And yes unless you have a few thousand dollars
worth of quality gauges laying around and are proficient with their use by all
means use plasti-gauge to check each of the rod and main bearing for
clearance, plasti-gauge is all but foolproof and cheap insurance that your doing
it right.
Also make sure that you have and
accurate/quality torque wrench for use during assembly, all those numbers that
people have taken time to write down for your use are important in
the final outcome and longevity of your engine.
I am sure that I have forgot to mention
everything, but hope that this is a good start, as other's will chime in on
anything I left out.
In a message dated 2/13/2012 11:24:53 P.M. Central Standard Time,
dennis.2914@xxxxxxxxx writes:
Hello, -- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en. |
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