Re: Engine Assembly Questions

[MO <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

 I agree with dodger here, but I am going to use a assembly paste that
has a lot of Zddp in it. Put it on the cam lobes and just the bottom
of the lifters, not on the sides of the lifters. . Also on the pushrod
ends.  I would not use it on any other assembly
applications.................................MO

On Feb 14, 12:20 am, Dodger7...@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I think that just about every major brand of oil has it's own secret
> assembly lubrication, and if polled am sure that they could all come up with
> people that would swear by it as well as at it, some of the old timers even had
>  their own secret concoctions, most of which were a mix of STP and what
> ever  brand of oil they were going to end up using and a little bit of white
> lithium grease. I believe that the secret is to make sure that there are no
> bare  (dry) parts left sitting in the engine especially if it is going to be
> sitting  for any amount of time before starting.  If you have coated all
> your  bearings and rings with most any oil, and used what ever has been sent to
> you  with your new cam for it's starting coat that you will be just fine, I
> like  to fog the inside of motor with oil as well just to keep any surface
> rust  from starting to appear because of all the attention that was devoted
> to  installing clean parts in the engine, and actually having left them
> unprotected  from the condensation that will occur unless you have an
> environmentally  controlled storage place better than mine.
> Lubricate the pressure relief spring on the oil pump with regular oil, and
> pack the pump gears with petroleum jelly, this will aid in you prelube
> before  start up.
>     Prelube before start up can be done several ways, one of  the old list
> members swore by using an IV type system where he would attach a  hose
> between a jug of oil suspended above the engine so as to siphon it down and  into
> the oil pressure gauge fitting for like 24-36 hours so as to fill all the
> oil passages and float the air pockets out, I prefer to use a battery
> powered drill driving the oilpump to push the air out and fill the galleys,
> watching the oil gauge, and turning  the engine about a 1/4 turn  ever so often
> so as to line up all of the oil passages during this time.
>     And yes unless you have a few thousand dollars  worth of quality gauges
> laying around and are proficient with their use by all  means use
> plasti-gauge to check each of the rod and main bearing for  clearance, plasti-gauge
> is all but foolproof and cheap insurance that your doing  it right.
>      Also make sure that you have and  accurate/quality torque wrench for
> use during assembly, all those numbers that  people have taken time to write
> down for  your use are important in  the final outcome and longevity  of
> your engine.
>       I am sure that I have forgot to mention  everything, but hope that
> this is a good start, as other's will chime in on  anything I left out.
>
> In a message dated 2/13/2012 11:24:53 P.M. Central Standard Time,
>
> dennis.2...@xxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm going to be assembling an engine and I have a few  simple
> questions:
>
> What is recommended for assembly lube on rods and  mains?
>
> Any recommendations on using plastigage to check rod and  main
> bearings?
>
> What is recommended for lubricating pistons when  installing in the
> block?
>
> Just asking because it was a long time ago  when I put my last engine
> together, lubricants have changed.
>
> This is  Mopar related, it is a 1954 331 Hemi, don't want to make
> stupid  mistakes.  I do have Tex Smith's "The Complete Chrysler Hemi
> Engine  Manual", a very good book.
>
> Thanks.
> Dennis C.
>
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