Re: ZDDP Additives
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Re: ZDDP Additives



My only real qualm here is the blanket statement that "all 10w40 oil is bad"...it's just not accurate. Just curious...so would 20w50 be even worse since it's thicker than 10w40? Given the same rating oils, in 10w30 & 10w40 weights, with the same additive package rating, the only difference is the polymer quantity, and the fact that the 10w40 oil now has a higher operating temperature range...since it's thicker.

A blanket statement that 10w40 does not have an applicable rating for our cars isn't exactly correct. There are many 10w40 oils our that ARE applicable...Royal Purple, Amsoil, Brad Penn, Driven, Lucas, etc.

My only real qualm here is the blanket statement that "all 10w40 oil is bad".

PS - I've been running 20w50 Valvoline VR-1 Racing oil in my 65 Coronet for the last 6+ years, the engine has ~87K on it, and there's not a single puff of smoke. Heads have never been redone to my knowledge.

Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3

On Tue, Dec 16, 2014 at 2:15 PM, Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
No flame war here, and I apologize if it appeared I was flaming you,  I would highly recommend you use 10w40 in your car, I elect to not use it.  Unlike auto manufactures that will not warranty damage caused by 10w40 to your engine, your PhD Father Knows Best!  You stated, "There's nothing wrong with 10w40 oil if has an applicable rating."  Absolutely correct, but 10w40 does not have a applicable ratting for our cars.  Again correct about the additive packages, and as I said they have to overload the 10w oil with additive to meet 40w rating.  The bad part is heat breaks the excess polymers down turning them into abrasives.  And I believe we all can figure out what abrasives will do in your engine.  This has been discussed in the past, and I don't want to rehash it again.  Just use what you feel comfortable using.  But that little puff of smoke coming out of your tailpipe when you start it is more than likely brought to you care of 10w40.
 
Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to you and yours.
 
 
                Herb
 
1954 DeSoto Firedome Estate Wagon 276 HEMI
1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
1959 Dodge Coronet 326 Poly
1960 Chrysler Valiant V100 Wagon  170 3 speed
1961 Plymouth Sport Suburban Wagon 318 Poly
1961 Plymouth Valiant V200 Wagon  170
1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon 318 Poly
1963 Plymouth Fury 2D/HT 7.0L Gen III HEMI
1963 Plymouth Sport Fury Convertible 361
1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
1979 Dodge Aspen Sport Wagon 360
1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
2014 Dodge Journey
St. Louis, MO.
 
 &
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Bill M
Date: 12/16/2014 12:12:56 PM
Subject: Re: ZDDP Additives
 
I'm going to do this as best as I can without starting a flame war, but...that makes NO freaking sense. Just because it's 10w40 weight (vs.10w30) does NOT mean it's going to arbitrarily "tear up your engine". Your "short and simple answer" is just plain wrong, The the additive packages that you are speaking of provides detergent agents, anti-scuff agents, etc. Newer additive packages may and are generally not good for old cars with flat tappet cams due to the lack of the zinc anti-scuff agents...they tear up catalytic converters in new cars. There's nothing wrong with 10w40 oil if has an applicable rating.

The way they create a multi-weight oil is by placing spring shaped polymers into the oil...they are in EVERY multi-weight motor oil. When the springs are cold, coiled up and compressed, it acts like 10 weight. Conversely when the springs get hot, they expand and thicken the oil. I know this for a fact as my father is a PhD chemist.

Bottom line is just because it's 10w40, doesn't mean much. It's the rating on the oil that makes the difference.

Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3

On Mon, Dec 15, 2014 at 8:19 PM, Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Tears up your engine.  The short & simple answer, to make 10w oil lubricate like 40w they add so much additive it cannot be held in suspension under the heat conditions your engine lives in.  The additive breaks down and becomes an abrasive thus killing your valve guides & piston rings/cylinders causing excessive wear.  New car manufactures just stop short of saying it completely voids your warranty but will not warranty any premature wear/damage caused by using 10w40 and it will damage your engine in the long run! 
 
When I said separate you from your money I meant selling you something that will do you no good.  This is a great example of marketing & politicks, if you tell someone it is so 12 times, they belive it is!  Back in the day they thought 10w40 was "all that", pennzoil advertised the daylights out of it and everyone believed it. Time has proven that is not correct.
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Bill M
Date: 12/15/2014 5:02:17 PM
Subject: Re: ZDDP Additives
 

I'm confused. What's so horribly wrong with 10w40 weight oil? You said that like its $1000/qt?

On Dec 15, 2014 5:48 PM, "Herb" <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
A good engine/machinist, Mechanic guy that knows what he is doing, or worth his salt would NEVER recommend 10w40!  A parts replacer/label reader or someone wanting to separate you from your money
Would.  Just my 2¢
 
Just like all my friends that install interiors jokingly tell people to use armor-all on their interiors and tops.  They know they will be ruined in short order and they get to sell stuff!
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Bill M
Date: 12/15/2014 1:25:50 PM
Subject: Re: ZDDP Additives
 
I've been running Valvolive VR-1 Racing oil which supposedly has enough zinc. All I can find locally is 20W50. With that said, my engine/machinist guy recommended Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs in a 10w30 or 10w40

 
 

 

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