The radiator you described with 1 inch tubes probably has about half the cooling capacity as the radiator that came stock. It is all about surface area, two 1/2 inch tubes will have a lot more surface area than one 1 inch tube. My Sport Fury has a stock 361 but it wanted to run hot all summer, flirting with the high end of the gauge, so I took it to have it boiled out, it was determined it needed to be re-cored. I eventually want to install AC in the car so I inquired about a larger radiator now. My radiator guy suggested converting it to a four core, keeping my original tanks. It has four rows with small tubes and a high fin count. I changed nothing but the core and my Fury runs almost too cool, it stays down at the lower end of the gauge on the hottest days here in Missouri. And it gets hot and stays hot here also! BTW I had the same experience with my 61 Plymouth Suburban with a 318 that now runs cool now, and I am running a stock four blade fan on all three cars that have been re-cored.
-------Original Message-------
Date: 02/14/15 13:30:26
Subject: Re: Extra cooling fan question
Paul,
I'm using an, Aluminum 2 core with 1 inch wide Cores and a matching custom shroud from Smith Racing Radiator's,, along with a Flow Kooler Hi flow mechanical water pump. This new TNT 440 engine runs very powerful but this City cooling problem just won't stop hassling me.
--------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: Extra cooling fan question
Date: Saturday, February 14, 2015, 1:57 PM
I have a similar setup to yours including a higher
output water pump, except that I have a stock 2 core copper
radiator, 4 blade fan, and no shroud. When I bought the
car it had an electric pusher fan. I saw the same symptoms
you describe. The fan was on a switch so I could turn it
off and on at will. I found that it had absolutely no
effect. As my temps would creep up in city driving I could
turn on the fan and they would just continue to creep up.
So I took mine off. I'm with George in that I think
it may have blocked airflow and made it worse.
As purchased my 440 had stock
heads & pistons. Since then I have made a few mods to
bump up the compression and therefore more heat. The last
machinist who worked on my engine is a Mopar guy and a
serious drag racer. He suggested running a 160*
thermostat. He said to try and run it just a little hotter
than necessary to make sure the choke opens. He was
working on my engine because I had a detonation issue.
Stock C.I. 440 heads are prone to detonation due to the
spark plug placement. So keeping the engine as cool as
practical pays benefits in preventing detonation problems.
When I put the engine
back in the car with the new 160* stat it overheated right
away. After a little trial and detective work I noticed
that the new stat had an opening that was considerably
smaller than my original 180* stat. So with the old 180*
stat installed everything was back to normal. Note that
this was just last month when we had a warm stretch of
40*-60* days. It still wanted to get a little warm in city
driving. So before things get too hot this summer I'll
be installing a 3 core aluminum radiator. As noted in a
thread on radiators last week the best performing radiators
have a fin count of 14 - 16 per inch. All of the folks in
this forum who have gone this route have cured their
overheating problem. You don't have to hit me in the
head more than a few times for good advice to sink in.
;-)
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