Re: Ignition Timing
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Re: Ignition Timing



I have used them and am very pleased. I sent them my distributer and they reworked it with their custom recurve and vacuum advance. I used their control box and coil. There is no retard with their box. I called about a problem and they sent a new box at no charge but it turned out that it wasn't their box. He's been doing this for around 40 years and if you are honest in telling him what you want from your car, he will give you the curve you need. When you send your distributor, he'll go through it and fix anything that needs it.   


From: "Michael LeFevre" <493mike@xxxxxxxxx>
To: "1962to1965mopars" <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 12:17:15 PM
Subject: Re: Ignition Timing

I never knew about this company (FBO)-until now!
Mike

On Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 8:07 AM, JimJablonski <groovinjim@xxxxxxx> wrote:
Just an anecdote to Mike's wisdom, if I could... if you're uncomfortable brazing the advance slot there is a limiter plate available from FBO, as found here:

I haven't used it but it seems to be convenient.

Thank you,

Jim


On Sunday, September 17, 2017 at 7:24:44 PM UTC-4, Mike wrote:
The info from the TVMC is not quite correct. Vacuum advance adds extra advance at light engine load to provide more complete combustion and efficiency (MPG). At full throttle no vacuum or very little will be present to activate the advance diaphragm so it does not count in the total. I have always shot for 38* total with 10 to 18* initial (as long as cranking speed is OK). Since I run automatics I like the mechanical all in by 2500 and you will have to limit that to keep your total to 35 to 38*. You can limit the amount by brazing the advance slot (one is enough) shorter to limit weight travel. The rate of advance is controlled by spring tension and those springs can be purchased from speed shops. Advance can be complicated but most of the time it's not rocket science.
You can check the forums at" for B bodies only" to gain other incites and Mopar Action had some great articles on the subject also.
I looked this summer at some car shows and saw many plugged vacuum advance canisters on mild engines-they are giving up gas mileage and running more uncombusted gasoline down past the piston rings-prematurely wearing them out!

Mike

On Sun, Sep 17, 2017 at 6:45 PM, <62-65-mail...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
The  the Tennessee Valley Mopar Club has a document online that may help. Combo of vacuum readings and timing
settings.  The http://tvmoparclub.com/files/tech/Mopar%20Timing.pdf

Thanks,
Gary H.

>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: 'Paul L.
>  Forgot to add that to my knowledge this is a stock Mopar dist. and I'm
>  running a orange box.
>
>  Paul L.
>
>  On Sunday, September 17, 2017 at 12:50:42 PM UTC-5, Paul L.
http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-le wrote:
>
>  > I've heard some differing info over the years on ignition timing. I
>  > was talking to MO recently, and the guy who set up his distributor
>  > on his machine made the comment that setting "x" was all wrong for a
>  > manual transmission. So I'm wondering if there is a difference in
>  > what you do for manual vs. automatic. Right now I've got mine set
>  > at 32* BTDC all in at @ 2500. This is 440 primarily street driven
>  > car with a bit of a cam. I had been running with the vacuum advance
>  > plugged off. I recently checked the timing because I was able to
>  > borrow a timing light. I had a crappy one when I set it before. It
>  > was retarded about 8* so more like 25* BTDC. So I reset it and the
>  > result was that it seemed to run a little better but I had developed
>  > a slight bog from a stop. So I'm wondering where I should go from
>  > here? Should I hook up the vacuum advance and reset the total
>  > advance? BTW it didn't seem to make any difference on my issue with
>  > running hot in town
>  >
>  > Paul L.
>
>  --

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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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