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Dodge 1958 leaking windows Moderators: wizard, Windsor59 Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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Royal |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 444 Location: Sweden Vansbro | Hello, Always something to do with this old cars, and now I try to stop leaking windows, front and rear. Well, after the rear windows remove, it looks not to bad at first sight, and the weatherstrip is in good condition. I have newer work with windows before, so please give me some tips and trix. Maybe I've already done the hardest job? Send some pix of what it look like under the wheatherstrip. Bengt (001_1.jpg) (004_1.jpg) (005_1.jpg) (007_1.jpg) (008_1.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 001_1.jpg (103KB - 211 downloads) 004_1.jpg (115KB - 209 downloads) 005_1.jpg (66KB - 180 downloads) 007_1.jpg (115KB - 193 downloads) 008_1.jpg (106KB - 200 downloads) | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8445 Location: Perth Australia | Thats a very pretty car The rust is another thing, theres 2 ways to fix this Correct way Get some sheet metal and start forming a new window lip. It doesnt need to be exactly pretty, but it will need to be quite close to whats there, then get out a grinder and start cutting out sections, try to cut out the minimal amount and dont cut out all of it at once (this is so you keep the shape of the lip and the rear deck correct). Then weld away and once thats done, kill rust and normal painting proceedures Incorrect way (but you wont need to re paint the whole car) Get a die grinder and a wire brush and grind out as much rust as possible. Once clean, apply rust killer. Get some reinforced fibreglass filler and fill the holes up, then normal body finishing and paint. Which way to go? Depends on your budget, time and how much and where eactly the damage is. If it has actually rusted the lip itself away, you really need to get some metal back into it, also, if its gone into the section between the edge of the window and the trunk lip, it should also be welded in, but if its relatively minor and only a couple of smallish holes, I wouldnt go welding them up and doing all the associated bodywork that comes after hot works If you do the preparation and fibreglass work properly, you will not ever have a problem with it Comes down to how much you want to do | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | From what I see your car looks pretty much "normal" to me. In 57/58 the factory used NO sealant in the rubber mouldings. Any sealant that might be there was placed after the car was built, either by the dealer or someone else to address leaks. Always remember that Rust is Never the problem. The only time rust is a problem is when it continues to get Wet. Stop the Wet and your problem will simply go away!! Trouble is, I don't think we can still buy the good old asphalt sealant that Everybody used to seal up these leaks! Back in the Stone Age, I was told this sealant was to be discontinued so I ordered 2 or 3 cases. I have none left. Too bad!! Greg | ||
imfinlay |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 499 Location: London, England | I've been through this... PM me your email address and I'll send you a copy of the Chrysler "Body Sealing" manual. It tells you what to do! Yours looks OK though, but check the rear inner wheel arch (the wheel housings) and trunk floor where it meets the rear wings. I have some Dum Dum which is great, especially as it can be removed, but I believe you can use "Plumbers Mait" where it can't be seen (it's not black) as it also can be removed and is very similar. I gave up in some places though and used black window sealant which is silicone. You can also get the 3M sealant tape which is good to use in the channel under the deck trim. | ||
Royal |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 444 Location: Sweden Vansbro | thank you all for your suggestions. The car needs new paint, and I like working with sheet metall and welding, so try to do it the correct way. Today I have remove the trunklid, mats, antennas and ready to start the metall grinder. I must replace the lower lip, it`s very rusty and lost the correct dimension. I rustprotect my car inside wheelhouse and doors with oil, and the rust is now sleeping for some years. | ||
imfinlay |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 499 Location: London, England | Seriously, check out the sealing guide. I grabbed it page by page from somewhere on the net, it's really helpful. Happy to send you a copy. | ||
Royal |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 444 Location: Sweden Vansbro | PM sent Ian. | ||
Royal |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 444 Location: Sweden Vansbro | Thanks Ian, it was a very useful information. | ||
ToMopar |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1159 Location: D-70199 Heslach | Hi Bengt, great car, I might think, I've seen your car in Orsa. I hope you are able to weld the lip, without destroying the surrounding paint job. (2011_08_04_0940_Orsa.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 2011_08_04_0940_Orsa.jpg (205KB - 188 downloads) | ||
Royal |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 444 Location: Sweden Vansbro | Hi Tom. Yes, 2011? And the rust was not visible round the rear window. This summer it pops out some scary bubbles. The paintwork is not well done, so now I try to fix some problems before the car get new paint. | ||
Royal |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 444 Location: Sweden Vansbro | The weatherstrip needs to be softened up with something good, what can you recommend? | ||
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