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 rebuilding motor mountsJump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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udoittwo |
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Expert Posts: 1348    Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | I recently bought a pair of mounts for my 60 Plymouth with a 318 off ebay. Unfortunately, they are not in the best condition, so I am going to ATTEMPT to rebuild them. Never having done this before, this is my plan. I was trying to think of a way to make sure the center plate is in the correct position, so my thought is to drill 2 holes completely through while the assembly is whole so once its all cleaned up I can reassemble them with 2 bolts for alignment but I didn't want the bolts left in or it would almost be like a solid mount. What is the best way to take one apart? If I took a torch to the outer plates, would the rubber melt enough to easily pull away or could I run a sawzall down each inside and the clean off the left over rubber later? So now they are all cleaned up, I am thinking I would take my Dremel to a peice of all thread, slowly turn it and make 2 cuts almost though. When assembled, each Dremel cut would sit around a 1/4" or so inside the inner side walls of the "U" plate. Start it through a side and start a nut on the inside then push it through the matching hole in the center plate and install another nut then push it through the opposite out side wall. Lightly tighten a nut on both outside walls making sure the Dremel cuts are where i want them. Then slide the center plate on the all thread to where I want it, tighten the inner nuts againt the center plate and it should stay where I want it. With 2 holes, it should be right where I want it. After it is cured, I can simply twist the ends of the all thread and it will break off leaving the studs inside but not close to hitting the outer plates. I am also going to drill a couple larger holes through the center plate, so the rubber can flow through and help hold the rubber to the center. To me, this seems like it should work but always looking for a better idea. One other question, what can I use to form the body when I pour the liquid rubber and how do I keep the rubber from sticking to that form? I have this corregated plastic[like cardboard] that I am thinking of using. Can I spray it with silacone or Pam or maybe line it with wax paper? Thanks again for your thoughts. Karl. (DSCN2773.JPG) Attachments ----------------  DSCN2773.JPG (177KB - 134 downloads) | ||
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| BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575   Location: Netherlands | |||
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| ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8445  Location: Perth Australia | Karl, the way they rebuild these things is done in a massive press to inject the rubber in at very high pressure to make the rubber super strong, you cant duplicate this at home (I looked into it as well, these "floating power" mounts are stipidily priced = ripoff) Even for my buick, the mounts for a 59 and up are about 40 bucks, for mine upwards of 120 If its got fins, it costs you more Bit like if its got ti**, itll cost you as well (I dont think I can say that here  ) | ||
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| 1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7453 Location: northern germany | |||
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| 60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8948 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | |||
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| BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands | That's how I 'prepped' motormounts in the past. Yes some engine vibrations will be transfered to the chassis but with stock engines this won't be too bothersome.  Given the simple design of the mounts, I'm sure a more better solution could easily be fabbed fi by using a control arm bushing and mounting this inside the mount inplace of the rubber. | ||
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| udoittwo |
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Expert Posts: 1348 Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | |||
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| 59 in Calif |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1102 Location: Hayward, Calif | |||
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| target |
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| Polara61_383 |
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Veteran Posts: 158 Location: Ottawa, ON | Sadly I didn't take any pictures. But maybe you can get what I've done to my motor mounts by my crude paint drawing. First I cleaned all the old rubber from the mounts. Then I cut a perfectly round hole into the inner part of the mount and welded a piece of steel tube into it. The inner diameter of the steel tube is exactly the outer diameter of the rubber bushing that holds the front axle of a Trabant P601 (similar to those bushings at the ends of the leaf springs on the rear axle, but darn cheap in germany). I figured if two of those bushings are able to hold the front axle of a small car, the will also hold a big block. Then I inserted said bushing in the steel tube, put some hard rubber mat (I don't remember where I got this...I think it was used to silenced an airconditioning unit) on both ends and tightendend everything with the bolt that holds upt the front axle of the Trabant (I think grade 10.9). This solutions gives me at least some dampening and it is also reparable using cheap parts that are readily available. (motormounts.jpg) (bushing.jpg) Attachments ---------------- motormounts.jpg (65KB - 120 downloads) bushing.jpg (5KB - 125 downloads) | ||
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