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Expert 5K+
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | ok all you smart guys . how does one remove an harmonic balancer that won't budge with a 3 point , new puller (lisle) without destroying
the balancer (Performance qoutient by PRW) silicone filled , fluid . i even heated it with a blow dryer to touch hot , no move--------------------later
Edited by 60 dart 2015-04-16 12:34 AM
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Expert 5K+
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Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | 60 dart - 2015-04-15 11:32 PM
ok all you smart guys . how does one remove an harmonic balancer that won't budge with a 3 point , new puller (lisle) without destroying
the balancer (Performance qoutient by PRW) silicone filled , fluid . i even heated it with a blow dryer to touch hot , no move--------------------later First you remove the large bolt that is in the snout of the crankshaft......You asked for a smart guy!!!  ..................................MO |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8948
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | i didn't ask for a smart ass guy , lord help me ! ---------------------------------------------------later |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13062
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Hi Chuck, I don't have a clear image of your damper, but there should be threaded holes in the center part where you can install a 2 arm puller, or perhaps making yourself one
 (Motor_Fig_23-small.jpg)
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8948
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | used a 3 arm puller wiz . it didn't budge ---------------------------------------later |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13062
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | See the Picture above Chuck - we posted more or less at the same time.... |
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Expert
Posts: 2295
Location: Eastern Iowa | A 3 arm puller ???that hooks on the outside???
Ya want to remove it, not ruin it!
Don't know what all them chicken tracks on the above picture are all about!!....but...Chucky, my man.....
Chuck...do it like the FSM says, hope you haven't already wrecked it!
Use your steering wheel puller.
Edited by finsruskw 2015-04-16 6:39 AM
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Location: North Australia | Ow, don't sound good Chuck, must be corroded. This is your big block? It'll be a keyed parallel shaft. Try loading up the puller as tight as you dare, heat her up with the HDryer, then hit the hub using soft drift (heavy punch made of aluminium or brass) and a 2 pounder. Go for a bunch of medium hits around the circumference of the hub, hitting towards the rear of the engine. If it starts to move nip it up the puller a bit and repeat til it she starts to move good.
Steve.
Edited by 60 Imp 2015-04-16 6:42 AM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 873
Location: ALABAMA, HEART OF DIXIE | do it like the FSM says, hope you haven't already wrecked it! Use your steering wheel puller.
True. If you were pulling on the outside diameter with a three claw type puller...... You'll need to find a new damper already. |
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Expert
Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | Although the advise stays the same, most seem to miss the fact that he doesn't have a stock balancer anymore but a solid silicon filled performance balancer.
The aftermarket balancers can have a very tight fit on the crankshaft.
Some even advice to machine the balancer for a better (less damaging) press fit.
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Expert
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Location: Eastern Iowa | Sorry Chuck, guess I didn't "read far enough between the lines" here!!
Best of luck to you on this one! |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8948
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | come on guys , i used a puller very similar to the one below ---------------------------------------------later
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8445
Location: Perth Australia | Only suggestion I have Chuck is to put tension on on the balancer and give the end of the puller a whack
Pretty sure you have done that already
I wonder if the previous owner/builder of the engine put locktight on it? |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8948
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | from what i see , looks like it might have silver never seize but can't really tell . i just bought a better puller/installer from summit with a bearing
thrust plate , so its another wait for a tool ------------------------------------later |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | 60 dart - 2015-04-16 3:20 PM
come on guys , i used a puller very similar to the one below ---------------------------------------------later Chuck, that is the type of puller I use, but much more stout.. Hopefully the one from Summit does the job. Were you the person that installed that balancer and if so, do you remember having difficulty in putting it on?....................................MO |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8948
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | no buddy i didn't install . it came on a low mileage rebuild i bought recently . nice thing about livin within a couple of hours of summit , if you order soon enough , you
get it the next day . it'll be here fri. afternoon . what i'll do is make a washer to use nuder the crank bolt to stop heat . install the new puller . use a blow dryer to heat the
whole balancer . remove the bolt and fabbed washer under it . use compressed air to kool the crank nose/bolt hole a bit and crank more on the puller . if that don't work , i'll cut the
dammed thing apart just above the key . its coming off one way or another . gettin the thing too hot with silicone inside scares the hell out of me -----------------------------------------later |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8948
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | it's off but not without a minor mishap . the puller i got from summit is a proform . the thing is the bolts really aren't up to the task . neither is the largest nose adaptor . the adaptor is too
small to fit a mopar . so i used a valve spring washer with the small end toward the motor , worked perfectly , with little resistance . the bolts , i broke one right off the bat but i had grade 8
that also worked perfectly . heating was a long process . the old blow drier i used has an adaptor with a 1/2" slit adaptor , worked perfectly by aiming to in between the timing cover and the
damper . one has to stop and think that the whole damper needs to expand not just the center . never even cooled the crank as i thought i might . after setting everything up for the second
go round the heat was on 45-60 minutes and hot to the touch no burning hot but hot enough if you left your hand there , it would probably burn ya . i put a new mark on the damper using a
black felt tip pen and started cranking . extremely little movement was goin on but i kept cranking without stopping , then i could visually see good movement . it fought every mm to the
end but it is now off . i also removed the timing cover to have a look see inside and re gasket the cover . looks nice and clean like it should be along with removing the v-covers earlier to have
a look , looks clean inside as well . now the inside of the damper looks/feels like it has tiny ribs but why , i'd guess to get the real tight press on . it will get honed a touch . my advise also is to
not use never seize . why because on the press fit here , surfaces are parallel . never seize has metal powder . that powder will build up going off and on , making the fit even tighter but i would
use a good high pressure grease , as i will be , going back together . so it ended being good day for a change -----------------------------------------------later
Edited by 60 dart 2015-04-17 8:21 PM
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harmonic balancer won't budge
