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 Firm Feel Steering or Rack and Pinion??Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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Devioussquirrel |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 354   Location: Louisiana | |||
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| SRTBEE |
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Member Posts: 43 Location: British Columbia | |||
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| Daven Anderson |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 362 Location: Colorado, USA | Hi Justin  Welcome to the NEW FL site! Anyway, you've now stumbled onto what is really the single biggest 'upgradability' headache for pre-62 Mopars, steering! Even the 1962 V8 crank flange change can be easily surmounted by swapping in a '62-up engine/trans. paired, or putting a '62-up crank into the earlier engine and using a '62-up trans. The STEERING systems of Mopars also changed in 1962, this year marks the first Chrysler-made manual steering boxes. The basic 1962 Mopar manual steering box survived all the way to the 1993 B-series fullsize van! The "Firm Feel" boxes are based on the 1962-up manual/power boxes. NO upgrade of the steering would be even remotely easy in a F.L. car  Edited by Daven Anderson 2004-03-04 11:46 PM | ||
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| 1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7431   Location: northern germany | |||
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| Daven Anderson |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 362 Location: Colorado, USA | Even the damper (which would be worthwhile, for sure) requires fabrication of parts... Oh, in the above post, I forgot to mention that the 1962-64 fullsize cars (Dodge Custom 880, Chrysler, Imperial) used the 1960-type steering boxes (so like Forward Look cars, those cars cannot be upgraded with "62-up" Firm Feel boxes) PS: I might add that a torsion bar F.L. car with front + rear anti-roll bars and lower profile tires handles VERY well and can leave SUV's in the dust on winding mountain roads!  Edited by Daven Anderson 2004-03-05 12:21 PM | ||
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| 1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7431 Location: northern germany | |||
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| Daven Anderson |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 362 Location: Colorado, USA | Well there you go, Justin! I think Sid has done the most feasible upgrade to the steering of a FL car. My wagon isn't as advanced (still Saginaw manual steering!), but still a lot better than my '61 with no anti-roll bars and (sometimes) 75 series 14" whitewalls! Tire aspect ratio changes alter the steering feel of any car. My SRT4 currently has 205-65-15 snow tires (the 205-50-17 summer tires are in the basement). If you floor it in the dry at 50+ mph with the snows on it, the car will be trying to yank the steering wheel out of your hands! (admittedly, those tires aren't designed with that in mind) No such behavior with the 50-aspect summer tires! And yes 50-aspect snow tires would be better-behaved, it's just that they cost so much! Edited by Daven Anderson 2004-03-05 2:47 PM | ||
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| Ray |
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Expert Posts: 1497  Location: Fairfax, Minnesota | |||
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| Devioussquirrel |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 354 Location: Louisiana | |||
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| Daven Anderson |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 362 Location: Colorado, USA | My wagon has 225-60-15's (15×7 police steel wheels) + KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. Anti-roll bars are 1970 C-body (front) and E-body (rear). Installing a front anti-roll bar is one of the best improvements that can be made to a Forward Look car! Ray, I think you have the wrong bushings! Gary may have accidentally sent you the wrong bushings, I suggest that you contact him...As far as tire aspect goes, I'd rather have 75 series tires WITH a front anti-roll bar than 60 series tires WITHOUT an anti-roll bar up in the Rocky Mountain roads. Your 70 series tires will handle much better with a front anti-roll bar, even better with a rear bar as well! Sid's underdrive pulley uses less engine HP than a regular PS pump, that's why he did that! ALTHOUGH, maybe less PS boost would help the on-center steering feel....? It IS a matter of record that fully streetable torsion bar cars with Street HP tires can easily exceed .80 g's on the skidpad with today's tires (just watch an SCCA race with a properly set-up torsion-bar car entered!) E-bodies have hit .90 g's with STREET tires and those cars have a 1962 design (B-body) front suspension! The bracket (also called damper) Sid refers to is a universal kit for cars with recirculating ball or worm & roller steering (cars with center steering links, that is). This piece restricts the non-steering related movements of the center link, this is an EXCELLENT idea and I should put one in my wagon ASAP! This kind of damper would help the steering feel of any car with a center link, not just FL cars; and is compatible with both manual or power steering cars. Edited by Daven Anderson 2004-03-05 8:11 PM | ||
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| 1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7431 Location: northern germany | |||
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| myfury |
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| Has anyone tried to alter the relief valve inside the power steering pump,(by shorting the spring) in order to lower the pump pressure? Also does a 1.25 caster setting give a firmer feel? I have a 61 Fury with super easy power steering,all new suspension parts. If 1960 Fury is still watching, do you still have that part# for the steering stabilizer from summit? I'm about ready to try that. Thanks Dale P.S If wasn't for this web site I never would have got this Fury restored. | |||
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| 1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7431 Location: northern germany | |||
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| 1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7431 Location: northern germany | |||
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| myfury |
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| Sid, Will try to post photo of my 1961 Fury if I can figure out how to it,I'm not very good at this computer stuff. I'll get some help and try again. Edited by myfury 2004-04-16 10:43 AM Attachments ----------------  KODAKPCD.ICO (0KB - 213 downloads) | |||
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