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Veteran
Posts: 225
 
| OK before I start my restoration I mean taking my car apart  This isnt my first one so dont get stressed, I can do enough of that for every one!
I would like to ask were do I find new front windshield and rear glass seals?
Also from all your guy's and gal's What is the Unobtainium in this car before disassembly so as not to destroy it.
And so I can make plans to make it from something else, If I need too.
My Plan is a complete body off restoration using as much of the car as possible.
I also plan on doing most of it myself Not necessarily in this order.
Engine rebuild stock (Hot heads for parts there)
Rear diff check clearances clean and Re seal
Transmission Clean and Reseal works good rebuilt in the late 80's very few miles sense rebuild
New brakes stock (would like to up grade but don't like Modifications & don't want to hurt value of car)
New tires stock original type white walls
New wiring harness original replacement type
All new Rubber seals for window's and door's if available
Re-chrome parts that need it and buff what I can
Body work and Paint (already Located quarter panel patch panels ones I can repair any way's)
Rebuild and repair all the original Power windows and Power seat assemblies (these I need help with)
New fresh interior
I know some of you have used suppliers that I will need to deal with and some are slower than others but they do get you your parts just takes forever such as one interior supplier I plan on using, I figure if I send him the stuff now It will be done when the car is LOL!
I want to order and plan a head of things like this so it goes as smooth as possible.
I would like to purchase as much as possible a head of time that way its here when needed.
All comments and suggestions and Advise greatly appreciated
Edited by Doright 2009-02-13 8:59 AM
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Location: Under the X in Texas | Its a TALL ORDER Dennis. You've watched all our discussions around here no doubt. Tell us what your biggest needs are on this particular car and we'll work with you. Like if that car had a bad short in the wiring harness and it fried I'd tell you to get an order in for a new harness with Greg Leggatt. But you don't need to order tires today because it will be a couple of years before you are ready to mount them. Enjoy the PROCESS, okay? |
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Veteran
Posts: 194
Location: Utah | Big back window trim and seal seems like Unobtainium to me. Side trim comes next. You can get new windshields for 58's, but haven't found a source for 57's.
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Veteran
Posts: 225
| I have all my Glass and am only missing one piece of trim from around my rear window, The Right hand side top going down is the missing piece.
I wouldnt think that that piece of trim would be all that hard to find but what do I know?
I am concernd with the Glass seals currently as I plan on starting the Body and paint as soon as I get my Patches, The Glass is comming out for this and the seals our in bad shape, Cracks and dry rotted. There has to be a supplier for them? |
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Expert
Posts: 3967
Location: DFW, TX | One thing I would consider is a disc brake upgrade for the front. It will make your car safer to actually drive in modern traffic. Restore the old drum brakes and let any future owner install them if that is what they want. I wouldn't drive my $50k 4200lb 400hp car with those crappy brakes, not a chance in hell.
You could possibly work with a glass vendor to have them install a universal seal for the back glass, but I would discuss it with them in advance! See if they have any examples to show you what the fininshed car will look like. |
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Expert
Posts: 1918
Location: Hell's Outhouse - a.k.a. Buckeye, Arizona | Agreed with the brakes - these days, whatever you'll be driving regularly has to be pretty light on her feet with as quick of reflexes as possible. Discs and a dual master cylinder are mandatory with most of the jerkweeds on the roads. |
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Veteran
Posts: 225
| So Danny is the rear seal unobtainium?
Who supplies the front one?
If some one has already went the route of having to use a diffrent seal you would think they would have a part number and a supplier for what they used?
And out of curiosity
Are there disk brake up grades from later cars that all bolt in? with out modifications other than changing out all the components?
If so what year parts car and model should I be looking for to rob all the parts from?
Perhaps a new Data base should be started for acceptable replacement parts and dealers for Unobtainium? on all our diffrent makes and models?????? sounds like a good idea any way! |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | And, MY suggestion, on the brakes is simply this: save some time and money, and have the brake drums be turned
and then, send the brake shoes to Firm Feel company, so that a modern set of carbon-metallic linings can be bonded
onto them.
Then, send your single-pot master cylinder to a rebuilder, who can install steel bushings into the orifices, to seal them
and prevent them from leaking.
THEN, if you are not satisfied with your car's braking effort and response, you could consider Plan B , which
is to retrofit Bendix 11x3" Duo-Servo mid-60's drum brakes onto your car (virtually a complete bolt-on affair, but slight
simple surgery to the rear axle flange and the OEM rear brake drum's backing plate is needed).
I've got the 11x3"ers on my car, and they are everything that I need; they can and will throw an unsuspecting passenger
into the dashboard, if he is not bucked-up.
Plan C can be those disc brakes; who knows? By then maybe soneone MIGHT be able to buy all the needed pieces for
their installation, from one source, ready-to-install. Right now, it's still a bit of find-and-scrounge the master cylinder
and other stuff.
However, do yourself a favor, right now, and don't worry about the brakes until you get the OEM-guys fitted up with the
carbon-metallic linings that are available.
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | And, as far as the rear drums are concerned, get a good 5-lug-holding drum puller, and remove the tapered axles.
At that time, you replace the axle seals and bearings.
Then, you separate the brake drums' outer-drum section, from the inner-hub section, of the drum-assembly by pressing-out the "swaged" (pressed-in/tapered) studs that hold them together, and replace them with standard round-section studs, which then allows the outer drum-section to FALL-away from the inner hub section, instead of being 'stuck' to it, so that any future servicing of the brakes is a stone-axe simple procedure, as the drum-section removal allows ready-access to the brake shoes and brake components.
The inner hub-section will still require a hub-puller to remove it, from the axle, but, you've already O/H'ed the axle's seals and the bearings, so that the chance that you'll ever need to re-service the seals/bearings is VERY remote!
Also, you should use "Never-Seize" compound when re-attaching the brake hubs, to the rear axles.
Edited by d500neil 2009-02-13 5:10 PM
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Expert
Posts: 3780
Location: NorCal | d500neil - 2009-02-13 2:06 PM
Also, you should use "Never-Seize" compound when re-attaching the brake hubs, to the rear axles.
Might as well grease the brake shoes while you're at it, keeps 'em from squealing. |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Good point; the carbon-metallic linings DO squeal for about the first 100 miles.
I forgot to mention that Firm Feel sells the 11x3" Bendix brake shoes (which are rivited on) as complete replacement units.
I retrofitted the shoe assemblies onto my 11x3" Bendix brakes that I had installed, and noticed a considerably better stopping action over the OEM linings (but, they could have been worn/old, etc).
Unfortunately, as the Lockheed "Centerplane" brake linings are bonded-on to the shoes, Firm Feel's subcontractor needs to receive 'your' shoes, in order to remove your linings and to bond-on the carbon-metallic linings, to your shoes.
Thanks, and, it has been stated that the so-so operation of the OEM Lockheed brakes was not so
much related to their glazing-over, from heat build up, but, rather to their intrinsic composition,
which allowed them to glaze-over, and to fade.
Edited by d500neil 2009-02-13 6:32 PM
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Veteran
Posts: 225
| Neil
I already have that puller
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | ...bingo! |
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Veteran
Posts: 225
| ?
Thanks for the tips on the Brakes I agree that Carbon shoes should be WAY better than the Original type material as far as stopping power goes.
I agree there shouldn't be any brake fade with those at all. If they are making True Carbon brakes shoes they should last a good long time too.
I remember when the Airline I work for switched too using Carbon pads they were cool till we had to start changing them EEEEWWWWWW what a mess
Do they need the Drums when you send them the shoes? |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Nope, just the individual brake shoes; they remove and replace the linings.
Brake drums are not hard (yet) to find. Just make sure yours are good, now, or that they are 'turnable', at a
brake shop. |
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Expert
Posts: 2101
Location: Idaho - where men are men and spuds are spuds | Uh, Mr. Dudley Doright - For your glass needs, have you tried Bob's Classic Auto Glass, Blachly, OR - Phone 1-800-624-2130? |
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Veteran
Posts: 225
| Why no Mr. Geezer I havn't thanks! |
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Veteran
Posts: 225
| So not available
1.Quarter panels
2.Trim
3.Original carbs
Is that all thats not available? I find that a hard one |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Doright - 2009-02-15 8:33 PM
So not available
1.Quarter panels
2.Trim
3.Original carbs
Is that all thats not available? I find that a hard one
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You car is essentially the same as my car. It has always been my "policy" to acquire any spare parts I can find for the car as they come available. I have several sets of side trim, windows, nose clips, bumpers, etc.
Face it, these cars have their challenges, .... rust, gross unpopularity in the post FL era led a high percentage to the crusher, lack of following resulting in lack of repop parts, etc.
If a FL car is going to be your bag, you have to adjust your antennas to the problems at hand .... and always have those antennas "up" !
It is doubtful you are going to find a set of body skins just kicking around that are any better than what you have. If you do, they will likely take many years and tears to find, and the cost of those years of searching will grossly exceed the trouble of just fixing what you got.
Trim and bumpers, dash knobs and engine parts are another matter. You can't just make those. You just gotta keep your ear to the ground and jump when the timing is right. Anticipating the ultimate frame off that my car would require, I ratholed a cowl, floor pans, rockers, doors, nose clips, and anything else I could find. Your car will be a cake walk compared to mine.
Take lots of pictures, put nuts and screws in labeled baggies, and just tear into it. You have 2500 friends here to ask questions of. You can do this.  |
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Veteran
Posts: 225
| Hey Brent
I know I can do this!
Purpose of post was to find out what not to tear up while taking it apart, I found some quarter skins I can make work after I fix them.
Will be making trip soon to go get them when I get back I plan on tearing into this monster I just don't want to tear up something that cant be replaced.
Wanted to replace front and rear glass seals when I paint it along with all the door seals if I can find them. |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Good rule of thumb ..... Break nothing. Take whatever time is needed to do it right.
Naturally, some things are going to be shot. In the desert, the rubber goes to pot (but the potmetal usually stays pretty nice). Save what you can of the bad stuff for examples and just plan on hunting for replacements. I only wish my car had been as nice as yours for a starting point ! And if it is any consolation, .... today we have resto groups, eBay, that whole world wide wed thing. In 1980, you had you ! And some times THAT guy was lazy or hard to work with !!! 
Seriously though, .... prolly preaching to the choir, .... tricks like heating rusty nuts and plenty of lube can save you a lot of replacement grief. Having the patience and wisdom to stop and wait is a real virtue. Oh yeahm , .... and ask questions when you get stuck.
The AA Serentiy Prayer pretty much nails it :
"God, ... grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage to change the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference !"
Edited by Doctor DeSoto 2009-02-15 3:14 PM
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Veteran
Posts: 225
| Amen Brother!
I am more worried about finding all the rubber at this point
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57 Chrysler New Yorker 2 door unobtainium?
