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Expert
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Location: Ponder, TX | I've recently begun to search for a FL car and have decided I'm not going to get one to restore to a stock condition, so I'm looking for practical ideas to modernize the less desireable features of the older cars.
I've pretty much decided that I want a '56 Plymouth or Dodge with a late model drive train, as well as improved suspension and brakes. The drive train is relatively simple, so I'm not concerned with that aspect, but the front suspension isn't quite as clear. I'd like a torsion bar suspension, preferably the '57-up version, but before I even consider that, I'd like to pick some brains.
Has anyone compared the '56 frame with a '57? Is there enough similarity to swap frames completely, or to at least mate the two together? Would a transverse T-bar setup from a later Mopar be a better idea? I want to keep it as much Mopar as possible, so I'm not interested in a Fat Man, or other aftermarket design.
Has anyone converted a PowerFlite pushbutton control to a TorqueFLite? What about a late model steering box on the older cars?
Any links to '56 chassis mods would be greatly appreciated. |
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Location: Under the X in Texas | Since some late 56 Chryslers and Imperials came with Torqueflites, if you can find one of those few cars still left in a salvage yard, taking the push button box from the dashboard for use in your any other '56 powerflite equiped Mopar dashboard solves that part of the torqueflite swap equation. If I recall correctly, the torqueflite crossmember and powerflite crossmember are identical in '56 but the torqueflite position is I think 1.5 or 2 inches further to the rear so it is a matter of repositioning it to accept the torqueflite. Someone who has done the swap will have that dimension exactly. On any of the rest, I can't help other than to suggest you might talk to AAJ Brakes up in Portland and see what he has done with his '56 Dodge in upgrades. I would think some NASCAR upgrades like changing to Imperial front coil springs and finding some stout modern gas shocks would totally change that front end. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 6203
Location: Big pimpin' | There is one member here "I GOT FINS", that completely cut away the front end of his '57 Plymouth and installed a later model set up on the front clip....You might look through his album sometime to get some ideas with your '56....If your looking to run any sort of FULL LENGTH header on your car, I would try and stray away from ANYTHING with T-bars in the F. Look years....The T-bars are positioned too close to the engine compared to the muslecar set ups...I know there's alot of stuff for the '62-'70 front subframes, (Rack an pinion stering, tube K member, big disc brakes etc)..Some folks here call people "Hacks" for modifying the cars frame, but to me it's just a matter of making life much simpler in some trouble areas of these cars...I do know the later model steering boxes won't just "Bolt-up" very easily, as the hook up on the column is different as well as the pitman arm...Good luck, I wish I had more on your '56, but of course, I'm working with the '57-up stuff....
Edited by dukeboy 2009-03-08 5:34 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 585
Location: SE Arizona | Try looking into the late 70's-mid 80's (?) "bent torsion bar" cars like the down sized New Yorkers, Dodge Diplomats etc. They have a drop out front sub frame and the torsion bars cross over in the front and then make a bend to the lower control arms. You get the front suspension, disc brakes and power steering in one neat package. It takes a little grafting to attach them to the original frame rails, but I do know that a few people have used them on the 55-56 Mopars. I used one under an early 50s pickup years ago and it's a pretty decent setup. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9706
Location: So. Cal | As long as your king-pins are good, the original suspension is pretty descent as is. The bushings almost never wear out as long as you keep them greased. Personally, I would be more interested in custom upper and lower control arms that use a modern style spindle just to eliminate the king pins. Nevertheless, if you want to change out the original system, I have heard of people using the transverse torsion bar setup as well as a late model Dakota suspension. I haven't done either though to offer any advice, but I would probably go for the Dakota. Take a look at this picture of a '79 Dodge longitudinal t-bar conversion on a '56 Plymouth. I don't know whose car this is, but it looks hard to do. Not the route I would have chosen.
I would bet that the '57 frame is at least wider and probably a longer wheel base as well, but I don't know for sure.
You can swap to a torqueflite and use your existing buttons, but you won't be able to access 1st gear. Usually not a big deal. The '56 car buttons are so rare that it isn't worth looking for them specifically. Instead look for buttons from '57-'64 Dodge trucks. They are the same and a lot easier to find, but you will still have a problem with the faceplate not matching on a Plymouth. A '56 Dodge would work fine with the truck faceplate.
 (79Dodge2-56Plym.jpg)
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 79Dodge2-56Plym.jpg (59KB - 114 downloads)
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Expert
Posts: 1590
Location: Scottsdale, AZ | A guy here in AZ mated an 80's something Olds front clip to a '56 Dodge station wagon frame. Then he ran the running gear from a wrecked 2003, I think, Dodge Dakota, except the rear end which came out of the Olds. (not Mopar I know though) It is a real nice looking job with a modern suspension/running gear at low cost. I have a '56 Dodge and am probably going to eventually go with the Volare discs and Fatman lowering spindles. I do like the idea of a total frame swap, but you need to do a lot of research on what will fit with the least amount of modifications. I read of a Lincoln frame under a Hudson (which is a unibody car), it turned out real nice, but indeed more work than I would want! |
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Regular
Posts: 98
| This may not be what you want but I have a MustangII style front clip built by Fatman Fabrications on my 56 Belvedere and it rides and handles beautifully. I also have a stroker 408 in it and had to use a rear sump oil pan which is from a truck and is available from Summit Racing. It is a nice alternative.
Doug |
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Expert
Posts: 1207
Location: Ponder, TX | Yes, I know the Fatman setup is the slick way to go, but like many Mopar nuts, I'm stubborn enough to do it the hard way just to keep it closer to pure. My '73 D100 is made up of parts and pieces from several different years and models, including front-wheel-drive cars, but they were all Chryslers. |
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Expert
Posts: 3577
Location: Blythewood, SC | From what I understand, the Gen 1 Dakota frame will fit if you cut the two frames in half and weld them together. It's not as drastic as it sounds if you measure carefully and take your time. |
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Expert
Posts: 1812
Location: Slidell La. | That frame graph above doesn t look all that strong , not very much reinforcement there . |
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Veteran
Posts: 272
Location: Missouri | I like my stock '55 chassis with the AAJ disc swap; the only downside is that the calipers, pads & hoses are for a '76 Monte Carlo. But I'm using gas shocks on the front as well that are for a GM, and I still have a Mopar that's 97% Mopar! Harold |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9706
Location: So. Cal | I didn't know that Fatman made a version for the '56. Is it a cross-bar that welds to the original front frame rails or do you have to cut the frame and weld on an entire new front section? |
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Expert
Posts: 1590
Location: Scottsdale, AZ | dougsoldcars - 2009-07-30 3:48 PMThis may not be what you want but I have a MustangII style front clip built by Fatman Fabrications on my 56 Belvedere and it rides and handles beautifully. I also have a stroker 408 in it and had to use a rear sump oil pan which is from a truck and is available from Summit Racing. It is a nice alternative.Doug I have a Fatman frame stub w/ Stage II setup in my garage waiting to get welded into my '50 Hudson Coupe frame. It's a cool set up and easy to do according to my instructions and one other I got on a '52 Hudson. I'm just trying to get the '56 Dodge worked on first. |
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Expert
Posts: 1590
Location: Scottsdale, AZ | narleycharlie - 2009-07-30 7:48 PMThat frame graph above doesn t look all that strong , not very much reinforcement there . I originally thought so too, but I've seen a couple different ones done and if it's done right, they can be stronger than the original. And you can still keep it from looking ugly. |
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Regular
Posts: 98
| The Fatman Fabrication is a complete stub that requires you cut the front off of the original frame and weld the replacement in.
Doug |
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Frame swaps-modifications
