In my case, it was the passenger side that had the most clearance issues (with the torsion bar), but it was such a minor clearance issue that somebody else may not have the same problem...if their motor just happens to be about 1/4" more to the driver's side than mine.  But you are right that if the collector flange had been either 1" lower, it probably would have cleared.  If you look at my other thread (that I linked to in my last post) you will see how I solved the problem...and it was a very simple fix.  Now the only problem I have to solve is the motor-mount issue, and that is simply a matter of re-routing that one pipe.

Those pictures are interesting, but the only reason it won't work for me is that I have four 'openings' into the collector flange...not three.  But a set of headers like that would solve multiple issues for our cars.   One is the obvious part that the one pipe will clear the motor  mount.  The other LESS obvious benefit is that the collector is centered under the second-from-the-rear exhaust port.  That moves it AWAY from the torsion bar anchor, which is another issue with these cars.  The only problem I can see is that it may cause a problem with clearing the starter motor.

OK, I have finished the headers.  I welded them up myself using my flux-core wire-feed welder, but they cam out alright.  I then painted them with VHT Flame-Proof paint from the local auto parts store.

I'll post photos of them on the car tomorrow.

I used this part from Autozone (it was $6.99) to redo the rubber at the trunnion on the drive-shaft.   I had to trim the ends to get at the right diameters, but I think it worked out well.  I'll see if it holds up.

Here are the headers installed on the car.

And here is the progress on the motor so far.  Starting to look like something that might actually run!  Hope to start it soon.

As for exhaust, I have some pictures of the install (it's all in there now) but they are on my phone right now.  Clearance is not going to be an issue.  I noticed on all the 'stock' exhaust installs that the pipes rap around underneath the torsion bars.  Mine goes no lower than that.  A picture is worth a thousand words when I get those posted.

I do have a thread for the disk breaks.  http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=37689&...

The alternator is a 60-67 version with the external voltage regulator.  The bracket that I used is a generic one that I bought at Advanced Auto.  It was hanging in the row with all the other cheesy chrome plated parts that they sell.  I cut it in half and drilled some holes to come up with what you see.

Haven't updated in a while, but making progress.

I have painted everything but the front clip.  Painted the white last weekend, and have painted the first coat of red today.  Has plenty of dust and runs in the paint, so I am going to sand those out tomorrow and then get the second coat on either late tomorrow or Monday.

Also have some pics of the exhaust, although I don't have it fitting quite right yet (bought a complete ss exhaust for a b-body, with dual Magnaflow 24" mufflers.)  It's on there for now and sounds good, but it runs too close to the floor pan and I need to drop it an inch or two where it exits from behind the transmission cross-brace.

Got the second coat on and it went much better.  Only one run and only light dust in the paint.

Next I have to do the body work and paint the front clip.

I was 'restoring' my speedo today. My original worked great, but visually was pretty bad. The clear plastic face is badly cracked and crazed and fell apart when I removed it. The drum is badly faded.

Many years ago I bought another speedo from Ebay. Unfortunately, I had a house fire many years ago and this one got 'smoked'. Not burnt but covered in smoke.

Anyway, it turns out the one I got on Ebay is a 130mph speedo! I polished the clear plastic lens and it turned out good. The drum is excellent. But the mechanism where the speedo cable goes in is completely frozen. I've got it soaking in solvent right now, but don't know if that will free it up. I could use the mechanism from my original speedo, but it my not register the correct speed.

The differences between the 120 and 130mp speedo are in the clear lens and the drum. The actual 'slot' that the drum is seen thru is the same for both. They are constructed a little differently. The earlier 130 has the lens 'crimped' into place and the later 120 is held together with screws. The 120mph speedo was produced in Mar '57 and the 130mph speedo in Jan '57.

Got the dash mostly together.  And the engine bay mostly done.

Other than the usual fine tuning issues, all the major mechanical systems are done.  Except for the lack of something to sit one and the lack of a front clip, I could drive this thing around.

(IMG_0274s.jpg)

(IMG_0281s.jpg)

(IMG_0284s.jpg)

IMG_0274s.jpg (194KB - 256 downloads)

IMG_0281s.jpg (196KB - 262 downloads)

IMG_0284s.jpg (175KB - 312 downloads)