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door removal 1960 plymouth Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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196061SAVOY |
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User has resigned from board | iv got the service manual book, but the section on the body is missing, 60 plymouth 2 door sedan unibody , to remove the door, best option is to remove the top and bottom hinge on the door itself, am i correct, i should scribe the hinges on the door before removal , correct . ajustment of the door after rehanging to previous scribe marks on the door , the drivers side door, top right corner is set to far in, its not flush with the window pillar, very obvious, compared to the passenger side that sits flush with the pillar, is there a way to bring that corner out flush with the pillar thank u in advance | ||
jimntempe |
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Expert Posts: 2312 Location: Arizona | Another option if you want to get the doors back on exactly where they are now is to drill a small hole thru each hinge and the underlying body panel (but NOT thru the outer panel!!). Then you use that size drill bit to line up the holes when you put it back together. | ||
196061SAVOY |
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User has resigned from board | can I remove the hinge top bottom from the body or is that a no no, I guess im on my own doing it in the dark, see what happens this week end , | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | Just take it off The drill hole idea isnt a bad one (havnt heard of that before) because your painting, so scribing the hinge will be lost It doesnt matter wether its the door or body bolts you undo, its still awkward as the doors are heavy, especially if they still have their innards in them | ||
196061SAVOY |
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User has resigned from board | am I lucky or what , I had removed doors and hinges to clean/sand, today I, by myself, put both doors /hinges on, there f**kin heavy, pushed, pulled, yelled, swore, loosen this hinge, loosen that hinge , got both very close, went drank a bunch of brews, took a nap, then went back at it, I had one spot on both doors , top front where it meets the fender, just could not get it to lay flush, what I found was to put jack under door at the hinge, support the door, then loosen the bolts to the hinge on the body, jack up the door some or until I could see some tiny movement, tighten up the bolts and wala perfect fit, I deff don't wanna do that again I feel good, | ||
ruchaven |
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Expert Posts: 1231 Location: York County, PA | The drill hole is the best way to do it. Been doing things like that for many years. Catch ya later. | ||
JT Vincent |
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Expert Posts: 1493 Location: Jamaica Plain, MA | Hey Patrick et al, Despite the fact that you have already done the job, I'll offer up what I think is an easier way, just in case anyone cares. This procedure is the same for pre-Unibody cars, going back as far as at least 1957. It is straightforward and can be done by one person, although having a helper will help you stay sane. Michael is right-- whether you unbolt from the door or body doesn't really matter, especially if you're removing the door card and water curtain. The drill-hole idea doesn't make that much sense because you already have a door out of alignment, and, then, well you'll, have a hole there, and who needs more holes? Plus those hinges are thick and you'll use up some drill bits. My method is what I believe to be the most ergonomic. Open door, support the door with a floor jack, forward of the center of gravity (closer to the hinge), and another floor jack or a support like a box with a two-by-four on it or what have you. It just has to be able to support 50 pounds and in line with the bottom of the door. Use a grease pencil to outline the top hinge on the door. On the bottom hinge, use a grease pencil to draw a line around the bottom hings on the body. Lightly loosen all the bolts from the top hinge ON THE DOOR. Always use an 8 point socket for this to prevent stripping. When the bolts are loose, the door might shift a little bit. Do the same for the bottom hinge ON THE BODY. Remove 3 of the top bolts and bag and tag 'em or otherwise keep track of where they came from. Do the same for the bottom (again, on the A pillar, it's way easier to get to). Get a buddy, and/or your upper body strength ready. Remove the final bolt on the bottom. Do not torque door. Remove the final bolt from the top, and lift the door away. Sedans (2 or 4 doors) are easier to do this with because the body is more rigid and alignment is easier to adjust. Reverse order to reinstall. Check fit. Lightly loosen the bolts at the top hinge at the BODY and adjust out if the alignment is tight at the top of the A pillar. For in-and-out at the bottom, adjust the bottom hinge on the body the same way. Further adjustments can be made (up and down) bu adjusting the hinges on the door, and at the striker plate. | ||
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