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Expert
Posts: 2905
  
Location: little rock, AR | Is anyone rebuilding there brake wheel cyl's and Master Cyl's or are they just installing new/rebuilt parts to save time??? We all know time is $$$. |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
 
Location: bishop, ca | Tharps is not cheap, but good:
http://tharpsautorepair.com/
Talk to them.
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Expert
Posts: 2905
Location: little rock, AR | I don't need a mechanic. I was just wondering what most people do with these items. Rebuild or Replace??? It was just a question I thought I would ask. |
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Expert
Posts: 1906
Location: Ontario, Canada | I bought a "rebuilt" master cyl once. It looked great but the brakes started to drag. I had it in and out of the car several times. I kept thinking it had to be the residual valve up front. I found the problem as I was bench testing it. The piston wasn't returning far enough to open the tiny hole to the reservoir so the system would build up pressure and apply the brakes!!
The rebuilder had machined some off the back/mounting flange of the casting, I suppose to clean it up. They hadn't machined the same amount off the piston.
I've only bought new ones since. Maybe they are no longer available ---- I don't know.
Greg |
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Veteran
Posts: 207
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1110
Location: Tulare Ca |
I Personally Swapped To a Dual Master Cyl. I Rebuilt All the wheel cylinders that were save-able as for the other two I Bought Replacements from Raybestos.
Edited by Myke 2014-05-03 2:33 PM
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Expert
Posts: 3780
Location: NorCal |
Since most used master and wheel cylinders will have some pitting it's a waste of time to just throw a kit in them, this leaves sleeving as the only solution and it's usually more costly than buying new.
IMHO, sleeving/rebuilding is only for those components that are no longer available new. |
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Expert
Posts: 2788
Location: USA - KY |
At the last minute, we found a professionally rebuilt master cylinder from a late-1960's Mopar. It fit well under the power brakes bellows of my '57 DeSoto. The bolt pattern of the new MC matched the bolt pattern of my car's firewall, so it took no time at all to attach the new MC.
The MC cost $61.00, and assorted lines, nuts and bolts, etc. cost about $22.00. (I am not installing disc brakes.)
There will likely be more work done on assorted brake lines and such. Don't want those rear brakes locking on me if I can help it. 
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Location: Under the X in Texas | It doesn't seem like it was that long ago but 30 years back I'd buy a wheel cylinder rebuild kit for about $3 that included new pistons, center spring, new rubber cups and new rubber end boots and I'd run my brake hone through a still decent cylinder and put it back on the car good for several more years. Today there are no kits but you can buy the rubber cups. The main problem seems to be that our collector /hobby cars aren't driven enough to stop the cylinders from leaking and freezing up, brake fluid is seldom changed to purge the moisture in it, and as a result the cylinders are so deeply pitted that they must either be sleeved or replaced because they can not be honed that far. |
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Expert
Posts: 3780
Location: NorCal | FIN ME - 2014-05-04 6:46 AM
At the last minute, we found a professionally rebuilt master cylinder from a late-1960's Mopar.
The MC cost $61.00,
Coulda bought a brand new one for less than $50.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bendix-11323-New-Master-Cylinder-/371027169... |
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Expert
Posts: 2788
Location: USA - KY | 
Couldn't find one that fit and that held enough fluid...they are likely out there, but an extra ten dollars to save a bit of search time was fine with me.
I'm getting research-weary after three years of rabid, resto fever!  |
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Wheel Cyl and Brake Master Cyl???
