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Member
Posts: 41
Location: South Central PA | Hello, I have a 60 Windsor, I put on front disc brakes from AAJ and converted the master cylinder over to a dual (from a 76 dart, it does not have a residual valve in the m/c). I am waiting on the setup from roger for the rear disc and was wondering if/what master cylinder I would have to change to.
Also, I am exploring the possibility of putting power brakes on the car and didn't know if anyone had an idea on what booster/cylinder setup would work, I was looking to see if maybe a later style A body booster would bolt in place/work with the brake pedal setup. I was looking at a SSBC booster/cylinder setup (7" with an adj pushrod).
Thanks. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 323
Location: New Orleans-ish | Will an adjustable prop valve work for the rear disc? Not sure which M/C will work since 4-wheel disc was never offered from factory until much later... I'm sure something could be made to work. |
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Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: Arizona | The typical adjustable proportioning valve is basically a pressure reducing valve. Most commonly it's installed in the brake line to the rear brakes with the intent to ensure that they do NOT lock up before the front wheels lock up. One of the things that results from putting (and adjusting it so it's doing something) an adjustable prop valve on is that compared to how the brakes "felt" before you installed it, it won't feel like your brakes are working as well as they used to. That's because you have reduced the amount of braking half the wheels (usually the rear ones) are doing. It should work the same with rear disk, you'd adjust it so that in a hard emergency stop the rears don't lock before the front do. If without the valve the rears don't lock before the fronts then you most likely don't need the valve. Since disks are not self-energizing and drums usually are, there's a good chance that if you put disks on all four corners you may not need the prop valve. |
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1960 Booster retro
