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Sandblasting an Intake Manifold Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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ronbo97 |
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Expert Posts: 4055 Location: Connecticut | I'm going to be dropping off an intake manifold to be sandblasted. Should all the ports, including the openings where the carburetor sits, be covered up or should I just drop it off and not worry about it ? My concern is having residual sand (or whatever medium they use) get lodged inside the passages and subsequently get sucked into the engine at a later date. Ron Edited by ronbo97 2014-09-16 3:16 PM | ||
VAN HELSING |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 982 Location: Upper Hunter NSW Australia | ........ Ron, No matter how hard you work to make sure that all passages are blocked and are impervious to the entry of sand, it will make it's way in somewhere and somehow. I always blow out all passages after blasting with an air blower from a compressor and then use a pressure washer just to be sure then another dry off with the air blower and then do a thorough inspection afterwards, never had problems this way. Hope that helps. ........... Edited by VAN HELSING 2014-09-16 12:37 AM | ||
57plybel |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 594 Location: Melbourne, Australia | Ron,
If you haven't already, remove the tin shield under the valley... this WILL harbour sand if not removed, especially in the goo that is hidden there. Otherwise, compressed air will clear it all out after removal. Don't chance it !
Colin | ||
60 Imp |
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Location: North Australia | You should also not blast the sealing faces too, this could damage them affecting the seal, and if a gasket is used make it difficult to remove the old gasket. Steve. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3780 Location: NorCal | After blasting you'd be wise to wash the entire manifold in soap and water, simply blowing through the passages won't guarantee removing all of the grit. Unless the sand is very course I wouldn't worry about blasting the mating surfaces. | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7809 Location: Williams California | Be sure to check the exhaust crossover areas closely for cracks. If a small crack is allowed to remain, it can eventually cause driveability issues. Recently happened with my wife's '59 Dodge 361, and the crack was even apparent from the top side of the intake beneath the carb. ---John | ||
ronbo97 |
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Expert Posts: 4055 Location: Connecticut | John - Would the crack be visible, or would I need to get the intake magnafluxed ? Ron | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8445 Location: Perth Australia | This was the crack in mine It wasnt hard to see, I cleaned it a bit to high light it for the photo (2x4 001.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 2x4 001.jpg (116KB - 213 downloads) | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8948 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | after thinkin about the question , why would one want to get an intake blasted unless it was aluminum and to bring the finish back to life . be a lot easier to strip with paint stripper , or have it hot tanked , might even keep paint better . i just use paint stripper and my power washer . then rinse with alcohol -----------------------------------------------------later | ||
wayfarer |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 889 Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | As seen, the usefulness of sandblasting varies with the exact manifold. Is the manifold aluminum or iron? Is it an A engine or B engine? A good old-fashioned hot tank is certainly adequate and will remove sludge from under the tin on an A manifold, but heavy 'coked' oils will remain, same as the carbon plugs in the exhaust crossover. The sandblaster will cut through that. Aluminum can be easily damaged by an inexperienced hand on a sandblaster nozzle, iron not so much if at all. Also, 'media-blast' is not quite the same as 'sand blast'..... Edited by wayfarer 2014-09-19 11:35 AM | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8445 Location: Perth Australia | I thought media blast could be anything, including sand Isnt media whatever it is they blast with, sand, walnut shell, plastic beads ect? | ||
ronbo97 |
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Expert Posts: 4055 Location: Connecticut | I got the manifold back today. Yay for quick turnaround ! It was blasted with 60-grit aluminum oxide, according to the guy that did the work. To answer Chuck's question, if the manifold has a rusty surface and you want to prime and paint it, then media blasting is the way to go. Otherwise the paint won't stick. Manifold was immediately painted with a zinc phosphate primer, since cast iron has a tendency to flash rust. I usually let the primer dry for 2 days before top coating. Ron | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8948 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | hot tanking will remove all rust ,,,,,,,,,,, and a lot of the oil soaked up by the cast iron . if the primer isn't heat rated it won't stay ----------------------------------------------later | ||
wayfarer |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 889 Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | ttotired - 2014-09-19 3:35 PM I thought media blast could be anything, including sand Isnt media whatever it is they blast with, sand, walnut shell, plastic beads ect? You could be correct, as much is defined by local vernacular. In my little corner of the universe, sand is sand and media is just about everything else. Bonnet/hood, boot/trunk and so on. | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8948 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | sand is sand and media is just about everything else ,,,,,,,,, pretty much the same here --------------------------------------------------later | ||
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