|
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
 
Location: Park Hills, KY | I have been toiling with the issues related to getting my parking brake set correctly, and it still is not fixed. During the trial and error of working on that, a new issue has arisen. When coming to a stop, beginning right about 10 mph and below, the drivetrain begins to jerk and clank and stops when the driveshaft stops. It definitely happens more when I am regularly using the parking brake, but i drove the car for a week without using the parking brake and the issue still occurs, not at every stoplight or stop sign, but it is still there.
At first, I thought the parking brake was sticking, as I can feel the dragging after I disengage, but this is shaking the entire drivetrain. And only just before arriving at a dead stop.
Could this be torque converter? A few months ago, after sitting for a month, the car would not move when put into gear. I had to add fluid and let warm up. The car has not presented this problem since.
I would really appreciate any opinions from the experts on this one.
It's a 60 Windsor -727 with sure grip 8.75.
Thanks a lot in advance. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3035
 
Location: N.W. Fla. | Could be a downshift problem, perhaps? |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3400
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | This is all going to be guesswork from here, someone has to road test this onsite for a proper diagnosis.Start with checking u joints and mounts, parking brake operation and drum tightness. |
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | I wonder if you have over adjusted the park brake, try backing it off a bit
I assume it was ok before you started messing with the park brake, so try undoing what you did and see if that fixes it
|
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 168
Location: SD | Shep - 2014-10-12 4:00 PM
Start with checking u joints and mounts
That's where I would start. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
Location: Park Hills, KY | All,
Thanks for your helpful input. The u-joints were inspected and in fine shape, and the sound occurs, even when rolling to a stop in neutral. Perhaps the parking brake shoes begin to catch the drum at this slow speed and produce the jerking. Yet, the shop I take the car to cannot get the parking brake to hold reliably, as it will roll on a moderately steep grade. So the question becomes, if the brake isnt adjusted correctly enough to hold the car on a grade, would there be enough contact to cause the drivetrain to shudder?? |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3778
Location: NorCal | Cmangeot - 2014-10-12 8:49 AM
I would really appreciate any opinions from the experts on this one.
It's a 60 Windsor -727 with sure grip 8.75.
727? Upgraded or original? Original would be the A466 iron TF.
In either case, try shifting to Neutral when the "jerk and clank" begins, if it smooths out the brake is probably the problem. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
Location: Park Hills, KY | Clank and jerking does not smooth out in neutral. It is the original 727. This only occurs while stopping. No noise at acceleration.
|
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | If the shoes in the e brake are like your normal brake shoes (just smaller), if they have been contaminated at some point, they wont hold very well.
They can be adjusted as much as you like, but will still be not so good on the hills
I really dont think it is a trans fault, because if there was a gear problem that would make a clanking noise, your trans would have self destructed quite dramatically in a very short time
Best thing to do is drain the diff oil and look for metal (chunks, not paste), check the driveline especially the slip joint thing (cant think of its name), drop the park brake drum off and have a good look in there
Theres really not a lot to check
There is the sure grip part though, being a locker diff, I wonder if the oil got changed and they didnt use the right oil?
My thoughts are maybe the diff is locking up?
It can give the clanking noise as it locks, then lets go, even in a straight line if the rear wheels are even slightly different in radius
|
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
Location: Park Hills, KY | Update! The clanking and drive train shudder which I have been trying to diagnose when decelerating from 20 mph to stop ceases when I put the car in neutral and roll. Then commences when put back in drive. It is only present between 5-10 mph. Any faster and it goes away.
Does this mean a tranny rebuild? Wiz, you out there? |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
Location: Park Hills, KY | Update! The clanking and drive train shudder which I have been trying to diagnose when decelerating from 20 mph to stop ceases when I put the car in neutral and roll. Then commences when put back in drive. It is only present between 5-10 mph. Any faster and it goes away.
Does this mean a tranny rebuild? Wiz, you out there? |
|
| |
|
Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13054
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Check if there are any excessive free play in the pinion and/or the ball and trunnion on the propeller shaft. As a second step, demount the parking brake drum and take away all the mowing parts (shoes, adjuster and all). This way we can be sure that there are no issues from the parking brake.
While the propeller shaft and the parking brake drum are out of the way, check the outgoing shaft of the transmission; are there any excessive free play (up/down and sideways)? |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
Location: Park Hills, KY | Problem still occurring intermittently, in both neutral and in gear. Parking brake is working pretty good. While under the car, I grabbed and attempted to shake the drive shaft as forcefully as I could, there is no play that I can create. The only thing that noticeably moves is the transmission mount and it moves up and down pretty much. I am wondering if the trans mount could be the issue?? What I cannot understand is the fact that this only occurs at 10 mph and lower. If I roll, idling the car will clank and shudder like a noisy rattle trap. If I gas the car, it quits. Wouldn't a u joint, rear end, or trans issue be present whenever there is torque on the wheels?? |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 41
Location: South Central PA | If the trans mount is the issue, you will feel it in the accelerator pedal mostly on a decel (pedal will feel like it is jerky/jumpy on your foot). When you apply torque the rotational force of the engine/trans components should pull the driveline downward. When the engine is idling, there is really nowhere for the rotational force to go so the rubber isolation mounts absorb it so anything on the drivetrain that isn't bolted down will rattle, and since the driveshaft isn't spinning (or spinning from you giving it gas) if the trans mount rubber is separated from the plate, or the bolt inside the spring is missing it will do a little dance. Put a jack under the tailshaft/parking brake drum and if you see it separate from the cross member, there's the gremlin. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
Location: Park Hills, KY | Update- I placed the jack under the parking rake drum and gently lifted it up. It moved upwards approximately 1 inch. The lifting became more difficult when the bolt which goes through the spring hit the bottom of the crossmember plate. The rubber on the mount is dry rotted and break s to the touch. It did not separate to my eye from the crossmember though. The rubber looks old, tired, and compressed. I would assume that I could place the jack under the transmission, Remove the crossmember and replace the mount as a start....any thoughts? |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
Location: Park Hills, KY | Btw, how compressed should the spring be? Does anyone know where can I find a full mount replacement? |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
Location: Park Hills, KY | After reviewing the part diagram, and then looking at my car, I no longer see the part labeled "control bumper" on my mount. Where will I be able to find one of these?? |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 41
Location: South Central PA | You can get the rubber mount recast too, I had my motor mounts and trans mount recast by Then and Now auto in Weymouth Mass. It took them about 2 weeks to get them back to me. There is another rubber isolation piece on the spring too, it goes in the cross member at the spring bolt. There are reproduction rubbers out there for that, I got mine from JC auto.
To replace the mount I just jacked up the trans and took off the 2 bolts holding the trans mount pad off then jacked it up a little bit more to get access to the nut in the middle of the mount, the bolt is under a slight amount of pressure but nothing that would take your teeth out. You can pull the crossmember but they usually don't like to come out without some fighting. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
Location: Park Hills, KY | The other rubber piece is the one that I am missing. I am wondering if this is the source of the play in the mount.?? |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 41
Location: South Central PA | I believe that rubber piece on the crossmember/spring is to keep the spring bolt from rattling around and center it in the crossmember hole. Make sure that the bolt is a shoulder bolt (and for that matter the proper one, I misplaced mine and couldn't find anything close to it and ended up getting a replacement then of course found the original), it should have a 9/16" end on the bottom part and a 1/2" nut under the trans mount. The shoulder end itself mates up to the steel pad (from memory the thread itself is 5/16"x24 and is about 1/2" long, usually the nut is a jam nut or self locking). |
|
| |
Transmission or Rear end. Need help
