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Loosening stuck screws from the door striker plate Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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guyman |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 451 | Man., having a hard time getting these three large phillips screws loose from the striker plate on my 60 desoto 2 dr to take em out for paint and adjusting...tried about everything except drilling out the screws...anyone have a good solution to get these loose/out? Thanks., Guy | ||
DeMopar |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 323 Location: New Orleans-ish | You could try a hand held impact driver... | ||
guyman |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 451 | Tried that already....no luck! | ||
62 Newport |
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Member Posts: 17 Location: Västerås Sweden | Hi Guy Have you tried using an impact screwdriver? (5270104634b06c9feb8c59.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 5270104634b06c9feb8c59.jpg (12KB - 195 downloads) | ||
VAN HELSING |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 982 Location: Upper Hunter NSW Australia | ............. Use plenty of penetrating oil ( you've probably already tried that I guess ) and use a steel drift ( steel punch ) and a hammer and hit the screws on the head hard with the punch. This will help in two ways. A. It will " crack " the head of the screw away from the hinge ( a bit like " cracking " a head bolt when undoing I guess ) and whilst doing this, spray penetrating oil at the head of the screw as well. This will usually gain an advantage over just using an impact driver alone. B. Usually the screws ( after a few tries ) with start to wear out the slots in the head of the screw making it eventually slip too much when undoing and then your only alternative is to drill it out. My hitting the screws with the drift/punch this can temporarily restore the slots to a point that you will still have an opportunity to undo them without the driver slipping. and there is also a final try by using heat on the head of the screw whilst either hitting with the drift/punch and/or using the impact driver. Obviously you will destroy paint in the heating process so only use as a last resort. I would drill out only if all above fails. Hope that helps, .................... | ||
VAN HELSING |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 982 Location: Upper Hunter NSW Australia | .......... Another thought...... If the screw has a square shoulder you might be able to try some Vise Grips or similar ?? Or Another thought.......... Weld a nut onto the head of the screw using a plug weld in the threaded center of the nut and simply undo with a spanner or socket. It will wreck the screw but at least it will be undone. ............ Edited by VAN HELSING 2014-11-16 3:39 AM | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | if you don't have an impact driver a good regular phillips will work in a pinch . just don't be afraid to hit it and use a twisting motion while hitting the dumb end of driver . it's always worked for me-----------------------later oops ............ went back and re-read everything . Edited by 60 dart 2014-11-16 4:27 AM | ||
ronbo97 |
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Expert Posts: 4042 Location: Connecticut | guyman - 2014-11-16 12:30 AM Man., having a hard time getting these three large phillips screws loose from the striker plate on my 60 desoto 2 dr to take em out for paint and adjusting...tried about everything except drilling out the screws...anyone have a good solution to get these loose/out? Thanks., Guy There is a specific type of phillips head screwdriver designed for these screws. It has a thick shaft and the business end of the driver is squared off (approx 1/8" square) instead of pointy like most phillips heads. I clamp a large pair of vice grips onto the plastic end of the screwdriver to add additional torque. Be sure the screwdriver is centered or you won't get the screw loose. Ron | ||
GaryS |
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Expert Posts: 1207 Location: Ponder, TX | The proper tip and a speed wrench usually work for me. The speed wrench gives leverage as well as something to push against to keep pressure on the tip to hold it securely in the screw head. The really tough ones have always surrendered to a good crack with a hammer and then a 3/8" ratchet. Never had one beat me yet. | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7807 Location: Williams California | I've had great success using a ratchet with the correct Phillips socket, generally from Snap-On. Push the socket as hard as you can, and turn the ratchet at the same time. 99% of the time it will break the bond. ---John | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3778 Location: NorCal | This is, hands down, the best frozen screw remover...fits in a standard air hammer and takes a 3/8" drive socket/bit holder. (Knocker.JPG) Attachments ---------------- Knocker.JPG (129KB - 178 downloads) | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | All of the above agreat sugestions I would be a bit carefull how much hammering you do on those bolts though The screws go into a plate behind the skin in the door jam, the skin is only sheet metal and can (and does) bend and its not a great place to have to beat out. I had a few on mine break (I used an impact driver), so, if you have to drill them, thats how it is. To get the old screws out afterwards is a bit of a pain, but those plates are just held in by bent over sheet metal and can be removed to safely heat and generally pester the remaining screw out | ||
rockerarm |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 873 Location: ALABAMA, HEART OF DIXIE |
The applied heat method is the most effective. It usually dosen't take much, a propane torch will work, along with a impact driver or a few good hits on the end of a sturdy screwdriver. | ||
guyman |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 451 | All great suggestions...will try a few of them and see what happens. I like the creativity of plug welding a nut to the end of the screw....nice idea!...have tried the impact screw driver and hammer with no luck...looks like someone else tried before me and rounded off the screw area some...so I didn't try too hard as to strip them more. This is the same problem with 60s Mustangs..same setup... Thanks for all suggestions..will try some heat next with impact driver., and John's idea too...then maybe the plug welding idea...results to follow. Edited by guyman 2014-11-17 2:08 AM | ||
MOPAR-TO-YA |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5139 Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | If the screw head is large enough, I think plug welding a nut on is best. You just have to get a good penetrating weld on to keep the nut from breaking off. The weld heat also helps to break the screw loose...................MO | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | maybe use a dremel to cut a straight screwdriver slot , has worked for me in the past ----------------------------------later | ||
ronbo97 |
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Expert Posts: 4042 Location: Connecticut | The problem with welding something onto the screw is that you destroy the screw itself. Good luck finding one at Home Depot ! The only place to get one is on another car. So you're back to square one, trying to get the screw loose. Except this time on another car. Ron | ||
udoittwo |
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Expert Posts: 1348 Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | I've never had much luck with them if they don't come loose with several good wacks with the impact. They probably aren't going to come out clean. When they get that old, if I can get 2 out of 3 here in snowy/salty/rusty Pa., I'm doing great. Once I have destroyed them to the point that they are not salvagable, I drill the head off, remove the door. Then there is a lot you can do. Sometimes they are just stuck to the hinge itself. Spray with some stuff, let set and grab the remaining stud with vice grips or, as long as you are comfortable doing this, heat the stud. You can also weld to it better at that point. Probably a pin point torch until red hot is the best bet. I wouldn't worry too much about destroying those bolts, they can be found. 2 important things I've learned, keep a fire extinguisher handy and don't let that little bit of skin between your thumb and first finger get slightly over the head of the impact driver. | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | On the subject of those screws, I need a few for the ones that didnt survive the extraction process Anyone know where to get them? | ||
MOPAR-TO-YA |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5139 Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | ttotired - 2014-11-17 4:42 PM Has anyone tried a fastener specialty walk-in store? I am not to impressed with our local Fastenall store. On the subject of those screws, I need a few for the ones that didnt survive the extraction process Anyone know where to get them? Also try "Restoration Specialties".......................MO | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | tell me the correct size , and i'll try to track em down ---------------------------------------------later | ||
57plybel |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 594 Location: Melbourne, Australia | Can I suggest valve grinding paste or something similarly gritty b/w screwdriver and screw to improve grip?
Also there is an aerosol can called " Loctite - Freeze and Release".... spray the screw for 10 seconds straight and it gets so cold it contracts and hopefully breaks the bond/corrosion that is holding it all together.... I've had amazing success sometimes and nothing at all other times... worth a shot IMO !
From memory, the screws in question are quite soft and easily ruined.
Colin | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7807 Location: Williams California | ttotired - 2014-11-17 2:42 PM On the subject of those screws, I need a few for the ones that didnt survive the extraction process Anyone know where to get them? Mick, Try AuVeCo, they list an unbelievable amount of automotive only fasteners. ---John | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | Cheers John I'll Give them a try | ||
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