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| just thinking here , question , can u buy new front drums with the hubs for the wheel bearings attached , yes? where. no, what are the options , can the front drum and hub be seperated? if so whats the procedure ? is the procedure the same as the rear drums ,or are used front drums the only option , thank u for your exsperience and exspertise |
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| nothing hmmm lets try this, if I buy a swedge cutting tool, and remove the studs from the front drum will this separate the drum from the hub, iv read the thread about separating the rear drums, can this be done with the front drums , then purchase new cheep drums and the new studs , some body yes or no |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
 
Location: bishop, ca | The new (Chinese?) drum assemblies that appear on the Evilpay are 1-piece units.
But, they are reasonably round and true...if you buy 2+ of these guys, your shop should true their drum surfaces 'just-because'.
The vintage drums have swedged-together outer drum, and inner hub sections, which can be separated from each other.
The front drum/hub assemblies come right-off of their spindles, but the rear drum/hubs are pressed onto the ends of the tapered rear axle-ends, so, they need to be removed
from their axles using a drum-puller devise/fixture.
Once you 'pull' a vintage rear-drum assembly off from its axle, you can find out its brake-surface quality, and decide if you want to have your shop turn/true the brake
surface, or whether you want/need to replace the entire brake assembly.
The vintage drums, being constructed of the two swedged-together hub & drum sections, can allow you (carefully) to separate them, by popping-out their mounting
studs from/through their center hub areas.
You can, then, discard the (old/deteriorated, probably) brake studs and replace them with hard-modern studs (without having the swedged shoulder areas on them), so that, now, the drums'
inner hubs will remain firm against the axle ends, but the outer drum sections will beable to be removed from the brake drum, for easy future maintenance.
SO, the front brake assemblies can be replaced with the new 1-piece brake drum assemblies....the front brakes do 80%+ of the stopping, anyway, and they should
have their inner brake linings be (confirmed-) true before installing them.
The rear brakes can be the modern 1-piece (but trued) assemblies, or they can be the 'overhauled'(and trued-) vintage assemblies.
Here's a link for the 1-piece 12" brake drum assemblies:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=12%22+brake+drums&_fro...
and here's one for the 11" brake assemblies:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=12%22+chrysler+brake&#...
Edited by d500neil 2014-12-07 12:26 AM
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| <p>thanks a lot, as u stated the front drums are doing most of the work, so those are the drums im most concerned with replacing at some point, the rears I will leave as are, I actually like the process of removing them, having the proper puller and also I have the socket like adapters that screw onto the axel shaft thread that will protect the threads when hammering off the drum, ( I bought a heavy duty old time drum puller off ebay a few years back that came with 4 different size threaded sockets that would thread onto a variety of threaded surfaces, which in turn has made the process of removing the rear drum safely and cleanly, with out marking up the end and the threads ) thank u again for all the help</p>
Edited by 196061SAVOY 2014-12-07 6:45 AM
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Expert
Posts: 1906
 
Location: Ontario, Canada | Patrick,
Could you take close up pics of those " socket like adapters"? I haven't seen those before!!
Greg |
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| okay
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freezing here! 1960 FL front drums
