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Expert
Posts: 1348
  
Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | I did the AAJ bake set up around 6 years ago. Went to bleed the calipers and the bleeders are frozen. Calipers are less that $20 per side but I am not a fan of spending $40 if I ever need to bleed the brakes. Can I use neverseize on the bleeders or will it get into the fluid and contaminate it? |
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Expert
Posts: 2519
 
Location: central Illinois | I wouldn't use it. If you're afraid of them seizing again, get some stainless steel ones. I put stainless in my old trucks calipers and wheel cylinders. Bought them from Napa. |
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Expert
Posts: 3399
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Were the rubber caps on the bleeders? |
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Expert
Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | Stainless is more brittle than iron and will snap off earlier if stuck. But ofcourse they don't rust.
I always put a dab of hightemp grease around the bleeder to protect it. Ofcourse it gets dirty overtime but it's easy to clean.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 594
Location: Melbourne, Australia | I've used it on cast iron and aluminium calipers / wheel cylinders with both silicon and regular brake fluid without incident... although I used it sparingly and applied it with a toothpick to the threads only... not the seat. I also use teflon on the inverted seats and regular seats which IS in direct contact with brake fluids and again, have had no incidents after 15 + years... Colin |
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Expert
Posts: 1348
Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | The new/rebuilds didn't come with boots. I would think they would help keep dirt from the check ball, but would they do any good at the base? Maybe them with a dab of grease might help. Stainless might work but I used to work in a brewery and dealt a lot with stainless against cast iron and, as stated it is a little more brittle, I larned to alwyas use never seize on stainless. I think I will try just a very little bit of neverseize at the outer most edge of the mating serfaces with a little left to hopefully seal against the elements. Brake fluids are very sensitive to contaminates, so I will be carefull.
I did put the 10 lb check valve in-line to the rear drum brakes. Although I am not sure that there is any difference as far as actual stopping but it gave it a MUCH better pedal feel. No more long travel until shoe to drum contact. |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13054
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | I use copper paste and apply it only on the threads - be sure to mount new rubber caps, they will keep the bleeders free from dirt and water |
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Location: North Australia | I believe never-seize is a must on brake bleeders, especially if you run normal brake fluid. I am guessing because it is hygroscopic it promotes corrosion if exposed, and the cast iron cylinders and bleeders rust and seize up. I have read it is also acidic.
I am running silicone fluid in my Imp (with all standard 'hardware'), but I cant comment on this, as this is the first car I have had this set-up.
I learned to use never-seize on my Toyota landcruisers brakes here in tropical North Australia.
Steve. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 982
Location: Upper Hunter NSW Australia | 57plybel - 2014-08-12 8:13 PM
I've used it on cast iron and aluminium calipers / wheel cylinders with both silicon and regular brake fluid without incident... although I used it sparingly and applied it with a toothpick to the threads only... not the seat. I also use teflon on the inverted seats and regular seats which IS in direct contact with brake fluids and again, have had no incidents after 15 + years... Colin
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I've used neverseize on brake bleeders for many years ( well over 30 years ) using the same method above as well with no problems whatsoever, just don't use too much or there may be a chance of some contamination.
Never had a problem with any bleeders being seized after using Neverseize.
Just remember that bleed nipples don't have to be yanked at with the wrench to tighten up, just a little "nip" and if their sealing tapers aren't compromised they'll never leak and will undo easily next time.
....... |
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Regular
Posts: 98
Location: New Jersey | I've started using it a couple years ago after I snapped bleeders on things I didn't need to replace. |
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| As a side note, We really SHOULD be changing out our brake fluid every 5 years +/-, so unless you drive in salt, seizing the bleeders shouldn't be an issue as they would be loosened often enough. I know that's easier said than done though. Dot 3 absorbs moisture, and dot 4/5 doesn't, but I've been told that's just as bad because moisture then sits in low or end points in the system and causes corrosion there. Either way, changing fluid should be done once in awhile. It's not a difficult job. |
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can I put "neverseize" on brake bleeders?
