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Forward Look Technical Discussions -> The Exhaust Pipe - Modification & Performance | Message format |
Polybun |
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Temporarily suspended to cool off Posts: 316 | Are there any bolt in sollutions to a stronger motor mount for forward look cars with the A engine? I broke 5 sets on my '64 polara, eventually resorting to steel cables to limit engine motion. That didn't really help because it just ended up eventually pulling the cables apart. Power brake burnouts are tough on them dudes! I kind of don't want to repeat that adventure, which include the kick down lever getting stuck against the firewall and hanging the throttle open. I'm hoping for a more modern tubular style but, anything that isn't a shear mount would be an improvement. Anything short of a big block of aluminum anyway... solid mounts get old fast. but if that's my only sollution.... | ||
b5rt |
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Expert Posts: 2519 Location: central Illinois | Not sure these would work or not but I've never heard of anyone breaking these Poly Locs. http://engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/PolyLoc.html | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | like i said in the other motor mount thread use a 1/2 grade 8 through bolt or 2 , 3/8 bolts . -------------------------------------------later | ||
Polybun |
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Temporarily suspended to cool off Posts: 316 | I like that but you still end up with the rubber under a shear load. I'm not sure how much it'll help. But, I got a 3/8th drill bit! | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | with a 1/2 grade 8 , you'll have almost 0 shear . mainly because the wind up/movement is near zero . what i did for the old poly and the now in 383 was to build a torque strap with heims joint ends 7/16 all thread link and a welded on bracket to the cross member at near the best geometry i could figure , with rubber stops , top and bottom of the bracket . it bolted to the motor mount bolt on the poly and block on the 383 . with the stops and all thread , the wind up can be changed to suite torqued body roll at idle by moving up or down with the stop nuts on the rubber stops but the way easier way is with through bolts and i like the 2 ,, 3/8 bolts better . with 3/8 bolts it help with the geometry of motor torque roll on the mounts . also with the through bolts ya gotta make sure the motor mount bolts on the motor side are kept tight . i've seen em break off motor ears when have had slop movement but even with good motor mounts , block ears can break from being loose -------------------------------later Edited by 60 dart 2015-12-19 7:10 PM | ||
jimntempe |
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Expert Posts: 2312 Location: Arizona | 60 dart, how about some pictures of that setup? | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | if i can get a camera to operate properly . the old HP eats batteries and the newer nikon just isn't clear enough photos but i'll try --------------------------------------------later | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | got the hp out with good batteries , put my slippers back on to go to the garage , so where in the hell is my brain . red is settin outside with a tarp over the motor . it won't be comin back in till the hood is repainted and new under insulation installed , maybe a week or so . so if i forget , please remind me in a week or so ---------------------------------------------later | ||
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