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Stupid Question I know
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   Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Transmission and Rear AxleMessage format
 
guyman
Posted 2015-05-15 12:53 AM (#478322)
Subject: Stupid Question I know


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Getting ready to fill up my TorqueFlite trans in my 60 desoto...and was wondering what trans. fluid to use?...Dextron2? and how many quarts?.....7?

Second question...what break-in oil to use?...straight 30 weight?...last time I bought Joe Gibbs oil and it was like $10 a quart...any suggestions?

Thanks., Guy
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StillOutThere
Posted 2015-05-15 9:47 AM (#478343 - in reply to #478322)
Subject: Re: Stupid Question I know



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Location: Under the X in Texas
<p>There will be a variety of opinions regarding transmission fluid but the consensus from professional rebuilders always comes back to the latest Dexron/Mercon product for having multiple advantages. Which is what I use for a complete change or just an add-in. I also use it for my power steering.</p><p> </p><p>The only stupid question is the one that is not asked.</p><p> </p>

Edited by StillOutThere 2015-05-15 9:49 AM
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jimntempe
Posted 2015-05-15 1:38 PM (#478361 - in reply to #478322)
Subject: Re: Stupid Question I know



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Here's some tech data. Looks like the latest Chrysler spec is about the best of the bunch.
http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/nonlamp/982674.pdf
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57chizler
Posted 2015-05-15 1:50 PM (#478363 - in reply to #478361)
Subject: Re: Stupid Question I know



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"Best" is a relative term.

The modern ATF+4 fluid is formulated for OD transmissions that need added lubrication properties for the constantly-running planetary gears. It also needs to deal with lockup clutch shudder. The iron TF needs none of these features.
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jimntempe
Posted 2015-05-15 2:22 PM (#478366 - in reply to #478322)
Subject: Re: Stupid Question I know



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It's also formulated to have much better resistance to oxidation and viscosity breakdown. Instead of being shot after 20K miles it's good for over 70K. Seems best to me.
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60 dart
Posted 2015-05-15 3:02 PM (#478372 - in reply to #478322)
Subject: Re: Stupid Question I know



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breakin oil , different people will give you different recommendations . i'd go "rotella T , 15-40 cj4" , WITH a bottle of "comp cams #159 with ZDDP" . after breakin , use just
use the rotella T . it'll give you all the protection you'll ever want or need------------------------------------------later

Edited by 60 dart 2015-05-15 3:03 PM
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57chizler
Posted 2015-05-16 3:12 PM (#478480 - in reply to #478366)
Subject: Re: Stupid Question I know



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jimntempe - 2015-05-15 11:22 AM

It's also formulated to have much better resistance to oxidation and viscosity breakdown. Instead of being shot after 20K miles it's good for over 70K. Seems best to me.


The same hype that makes one believe the high oil change intervals for synthetics is always good practice; other factors determine fluid change intervals and one of them is time. If your collector car used oil that claimed to only need changing every 10,000 miles, and you put 2000 miles a year on it, would you wait five years to change it?

For collector cars that don't see a lot of miles yearly there isn't a lot of advantage for oils/fluids that have long advertised change intervals.

And, at the risk of over-simplifying things, ATF+4 performs a lot of its magic by being more "slippery". I don't know about you but I don't want more slippage in my 3-speed TF.
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wizard
Posted 2015-05-16 4:58 PM (#478490 - in reply to #478322)
Subject: Re: Stupid Question I know



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As a good rule, the cast iron hogs should have new blood every second year and the pan shall be pulled for to check for wear of bands and clutches.
A decent quality of Dexron III is the proper blood type and the most economical as well.
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57chizler
Posted 2015-05-17 2:39 PM (#478582 - in reply to #478490)
Subject: Re: Stupid Question I know



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And, for the diehard purist, the original recommended Type A is still available.

http://www.petroleumservicecompany.com/11501.html?productid=11501&c...
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