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'60 Wagon fuel tank Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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littlecarl |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 337 Location: UK | As the fuel tank in my Dodge didn't want to hold fuel in anymore I'm going to make one from scratch. The tank I had in the wagon was from a 60's british ford car and only held 8 gallons (UK ones as if that makes any difference) so the range of driving was about 100 miles then I had to find somewhere to fill up again. I've known this day would eventually come and a while ago Aaron (C-300) kindly took a few dimensions when the tank was out of his lovely Polara which gave me something to go on but due to the awkward shape and where it fits I had no option but to start making some sort of template that could be copied and eventually made in steel. I've almost completed a wooden box template which when I'm done I could use a a rabbit hutch lol. The big question is what thickness steel should I really be making it out of? Also is anyone familiar with dodge trucks DT 61-68? I can get my hands on a sender Mopar part No 2240725 and I'm wondering if the resistance would be similar enough for the wagon's gauges? http://www.nosmopar.com/query.asp?make=mopar&year=0§ion...
Carl Edited by littlecarl 2015-03-19 5:02 PM | ||
littlecarl |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 337 Location: UK | 1.5mm thick steel sheet on order and fuel sender for a willy's CJ jeep which has the same resistance what should be fitted and the bonus is they are readily available. I will modify the float arm to suit the tank. This will be a mammoth task....... | ||
littlecarl |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 337 Location: UK | I've made a start was tricky not having a proper tank to start with so had make something fit which I could hopefully copy
Here's the wooden pattern I made.
I started sticking some metal together and this is how far I got last night.
The jeep sender was no good as the resistance was 200ohms so I went for the dodge truck sender a seller had in the UK for £35 and that's spot on!
Edited by littlecarl 2015-04-14 8:51 AM | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13056 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Great work - "just make a buck" - keep us posted Edited by wizard 2015-04-14 9:50 AM | ||
littlecarl |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 337 Location: UK | Thanks Wizzard. I'm still making changes to the buck as I go because there's the bits you can't see when it's in place. It's so hard to measure when only the front and the bottom are visible. The top and the back end where the filler go in I'm almost working blind, there's so many curves to deal with making a square box would mean the filler neck hole in the body would be too far away from the one in the tank to drop in. I'm hoping to use a 50.5mm (2") nitrile o-ring to seal the neck to the tank. | ||
ToMopar |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1160 Location: D-70199 Heslach | Yes, its a great work. You inspire all wagon owners (like me) to make their own. | ||
flattie45 |
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Veteran Posts: 194 Location: Dorset, England | Hey Carl, only just spotted this thread. Well done, keep going with it. See you in the summer no doubt, John | ||
littlecarl |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 337 Location: UK | Well after a few weeks of evenings after work and a few lost weekends...... Just a few tacks and sides..
Lucky these welds are in the inside...
Grind off and fins some holes...
Must learn to let go of the torch and stop getting it all too hot...
I have my moments...
The state of the floor afer grinding, and cutting...
Whoops that bit is supposed to be on the inside..
Like that..
sender Reinforcing plate witha section cut out so it can fit through the hole from the outside in..
Made a sleeve with a groove ot fit a nitrile O-ring that the filler neck can push in and seal.
Trying to get the position of thsi correct was a task..
Eventually got there..
Baffle...
Front baffle with slot cut to allow sender float to travel..
Baffle welded in..
Fuel pick ip pipe..
Drain plug..
Now it's test for leaks time..
After a couple of days of pressurising and finding leaks then releasing the pressure to weld up the holes the test again was getting a but tiring. Eventually got to hold 8-10 psi without blowing bubbles..
A but of clean up and paint..
Here is the tank it replaced..
And in!! 89 litres, 19.6 gallons, 23.5 U.S. Gallons. Not far off I beleive!! | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8445 Location: Perth Australia | Lots of work Carl Its hard to stop to let the metal cool once you get a run happening It like, cool, finally welding nice and I dont want to stop | ||
littlecarl |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 337 Location: UK | Cheers Mick. Yes the best welds were ones that were never going to be seen.. I gave up trying to make them smooth as I seemed to be making the metal too thin on the joins. I wasn't leaving enough gap for the butt joints so the weld was sitting on top rather than going in. The other strange one is you can do a 1" weld and it looks perfect, do 3" and it looks great until you lift the visor.... The sender works a treat too. I have 4 gallons in reserve when the needle hits empty so no need to panic for 50 miles. | ||
C-300 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 496 | It looks great! Do you have the original gravel shield? It blocks road debris from hitting the tank. If not I'll get some shots of mine and add them to this thread. Aaron | ||
littlecarl |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 337 Location: UK | Hi Aaron. Yes I have and it's fitted to the car now. I guess there must be a 3" plastic plug that fits that into that shield too? Thanks again for your help. | ||
C-300 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 496 | My car didn't have the plug. It's just an access point for the sending unit. If I find a plug, I'll pop it in there. Great job on your tank. Glad I could help. Aaron | ||
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