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Regular
Posts: 76
Location: Rogersville, Tn. | Hello everyone. I have been restoring my 57 Dodge Coronet for the past year and now I am in the process of putting all the stainless trim back on. During my restoration, I had to cut out and replace the lower corners where the rear glass seal is because it was rusted through. I believe the rust in this area is due to the fact that a deep valley goes around the bottom of the sealing lip allowing water to collect and sit there eventually causing rust, which led to the corner rust through on my car. With all that said, what do some of you more experienced restorers use, or fill this area with to prevent water from collecting and staying in this area. If you use same kind of caulk, what kind and what procedure do you use for applying it before attaching the window trim? I know this is a long drawn out question but I would really appreciate your advice/help.
Wayne |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 6203
  
Location: Big pimpin' | Wayne, I simply filled that area up with what we call "Dum Dum"...You know, that gooey, black, sticky, window "Ribbon" you can buy at the local auto parts store? Worked great...Takes alot of it, but fills and seals that area especially round the little clips.....
Edited by dukeboy 2011-09-26 2:10 AM
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Regular
Posts: 76
Location: Rogersville, Tn. | Thanks for the suggestion Dukeboy. I'll try that. |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13050
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Why not drain it out? I have the same problem on my car - when I fix it, I plan to dain out the water the same way as I fixed the trunk
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Regular
Posts: 76
Location: Rogersville, Tn. | Thanks for the suggestion wizard.
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Expert
Posts: 1737
Location: Hay Lakes, Alberta, Canada | The drain idea is actually the fix prescribed by Chrysler in '58 to fix some of the leakage problems on the '57's. They installed drain kits through the dealerships. |
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Expert
Posts: 1737
Location: Hay Lakes, Alberta, Canada | wizard - 2011-09-26 12:20 AM
Why not drain it out? I have the same problem on my car - when I fix it, I plan to dain out the water the same way as I fixed the trunk
Wizard, where did you obtain the drains from?  |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13050
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | The drains are home made - I made them in my lathe out of stainless M10 Bolts turned to the profile you see on the pictures. |
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Expert
Posts: 1737
Location: Hay Lakes, Alberta, Canada | WOW!!!!! You have hands of talent!! You should manufacture FL drain kits- they would be a hit!! Remember to get Chrysler's permission... LOL :p |
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Expert
Posts: 2519
Location: central Illinois | Heck, I'd buy 2 and I don't even need them. |
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Expert ,, George Passed away July 28th 2021, He will be Missed
Posts: 1295
Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | We made a very similar modification to our 60 Dodge Polara 2dr HT during the restoration. We used copper tubing (5/16") and flared it fairly wide and about 4 inches long. The was a hole at the corner that just let it drain into the truck and quarter panels, so we used it and epoxied the drain in. We then put clear plastic tubing on the bottom end which leads to a small hole outlet to the outside of the vehicle. On a car that didn't have the hole, one could be drilled and used in the same manner. So far no rust issues but it hasn't been in that much rain either.
George
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1102
Location: Hayward, Calif | Hey Guys, Has anyone heard of 'bulkhead fittings'. They look very similar to what Wizard made. they come in various sizes and I think they can be obtained in brass. Big truck ( Mack, KW, Freightliner) dealerships and trailer ( Fruehoff- not spelled correctly- ) dealerships carry these in stock. The inside hole has pipe threads, so could be easily plumbed to desired application. Will make some calls Mon. and see what I can come up with. Jerry |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 395
Location: Netherlands | Don't see how drain tubes would work in the window valley as it's full of bumps where water will be trapped, you would need a lot of them to drain that properly, also with the shape of the valley bolt/screw in drains wouldn't work as there are no flat areas there to mount them to. And where/how would you route the hoses attached?
As for the trunk lip, I agree with George and also made flared drain tubes, only out of steel and hard soldered in place, that way the top sits flush with the rest of the body metal. On the srew in type drain tubes water will still sit around the head of the drain with the washer underneath it.
I will also refuse to screw any metric s**t to our car, very much against it, always inferior in thickness and thread strength and hardly a choice between course or fine threads.
Please keep US vehicles US, a cupboard full of nuts/bolts/washers in UNF/UNC costs nothing more than in metric crap....
Was Dukeboy the only one here with sensible advice as to what to use in the window valley? A design even worse than the trunk lip... |
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Expert
Posts: 2519
Location: central Illinois | Well this thread is a few years old but still relevant. Has anyone else tried the dum-dum fill Duke talked about? My window channel has been properly repaired and I'd like it to stay that way. |
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Expert
Posts: 4042
Location: Connecticut | b5rt - 2015-05-16 8:55 AM Well this thread is a few years old but still relevant. Has anyone else tried the dum-dum fill Duke talked about? My window channel has been properly repaired and I'd like it to stay that way. It's probably a good idea. Then push the moulding clips thru the caulking or 'dum-dum'. Be sure to line up the screw posts of the clips so that they go thru the holes. Then you can go into the trunk and attach the nuts to hold the moulding in place. Ron |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7207
Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada | I used dum-dum to fill the rear window trough, probably 30 years ago, in my ex 1960-Polara. It filled it nicely.
Edited by imopar380 2015-05-18 10:19 PM
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What to use in the valley (at bottom of rear window glass)
