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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1102
 
Location: Hayward, Calif | Hey Guys, I just replaced the idler arm bushing ( rubber from Rare Parts ) and installed. Started to torque the nut to 60 ft lbs, like the FSM says. I don't think I even got to 40 ft lbs and the arm got nearly impossible to move. Reread the FSM and filed the mounting surface smooth and measured 2 1/4 at contact surfaces. Reinstalled and tightened with a wrench. FSM says to tighten to 60 ft lbs with wheels straight ahead to prevent pulling to one side. Seems to me this will add considerable stress to the center link ball sockets and would require P/S to overcome this added resistance. Unless someone can come up with a REAL GOOD explanation for this, IMO I think this is a dumb #ss way of doing things. If anyone has a better idea/solution to this, I'm open to suggestions. Thanks, Jerry |
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Expert
Posts: 3575
  
Location: Netherlands | Is the internal tube/liner still long enough?
This should prevent the arm from binding up, which is dangerous coming out of a turn and the wheels don't return to straight again.
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7409
Location: northern germany | 59 in Calif - 2015-06-12 10:09 PM
Hey Guys, I just replaced the idler arm bushing ( rubber from Rare Parts ) and installed. Started to torque the nut to 60 ft lbs, like the FSM says. I don't think I even got to 40 ft lbs and the arm got nearly impossible to move.
it is a RUBBER bushing and this is normal. the bushing is not affected by how much you tighten the nut. unless you tighten it so much that the inner sleeve starts to distort (which is close to impossible). also please search this forum on idler arm bushings and what i said about them. THESE ARE OBSOLETE SINCE 1960 not without a reason, as they add unwanted freeplay to the steering even when new.
Edited by 1960fury 2015-06-13 7:55 AM
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Expert
Posts: 3778
Location: NorCal |
I agree, replaced the rubber with a bearing kit if you can find one. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7409
Location: northern germany | if you decide to use a ball bearing kit and can't find one in the US i use to sell improved versions for 57-61 cars and still have a couple somewhere (different than the factory pieces, bigger hd ball bearings, no adjustments needed, not stressed by tightening the bolt, no lock plate needed, zero play, with seals) they last forever and no idler arm mods are required.
pictures are here:
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=46636&... |
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Idler arm
