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Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | Here they are, well over a year but, pre-mounting them, they do look really nice. The one part should be closer to a metallic light blue and the new ones are silver but I can live with that as long as they are all the panels use the same colors. Here are picts of the original drivers door and their door panel. It looks like the rear door are the right size also. The actual cardboard panels are holed.
Karl.
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Location: Arizona | They look nice. The chrome strip gets transferred over? |
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Location: Pacific Northwest | Bitch'n! |
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Location: New Brunswick,Canada | I hope mine are that nice.my problem is going to the chrome.i didn't realize you had to take it off your old ones.any idea how you will fasten them Karl? |
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Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | It took less than 10 minutes to remove and transfer the stainless trim. Because the tabs are on a steel strip mounted inside the stainless trim, they are probably very brittle if the trim spent a lot of time wet, so be carefull. I pried up each tab with a small screw driver then straightened them with a pair of needle nose pliers. Just make sure they are all straight. The stainless has a slight curve but ligned up perfectly with the groove in the seam between the colors. I held it in place, pushed it down on each tab. It left a slight mark which I marked better with a marker then drilled the hole with a 7/32" bit. The pins popped right through and I bent them over with the butt of my screwdriver. Bend a couple in opposite directions so the whole strip can't pop off. I wasn't sure if drilling might catch the material and tear it. Because there is a slight channel where the color mate, I really wasn't able to use masking tape or anything to help prevent the bit from binding in the material. It is glued to the backing board well enough that it drilled fine.
Haven't mounted to the door yet, but at this point, they look great. Hope they have the holes in the right spots. Judging by th quality of thes panels, I think they will be OK.
Does any one have any of the plastic donuts that go between the handles and the panels? One of mine crumbled, so I would like 2or 3 if some one can part with some?
Thanks,
Karl.
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Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | Oh, just in case you are new to removing these window cranks. I have only removed the GM style with the C-clip, so it took me a while to figure these out. Here is the backside. Just push against the clip on the side marked as you pull out on the crank.
These are the plastic parts that I would like for replacement and hopefully a couple spares?
Thanks again and HAVE A GREAT WEEKEND!,
Karl.
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Location: Fairfax, Minnesota | udoittwo - 2015-06-04 12:31 PM Here they are, well over a year but, pre-mounting them, they do look really nice. The one part should be closer to a metallic light blue and the new ones are silver but I can live with that as long as they are all the panels use the same colors. Here are picts of the original drivers door and their door panel. It looks like the rear door are the right size also. The actual cardboard panels are holed. Karl. We are being trained to be happy with incorrect product as long as we finaly get it. |
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Location: Perth Australia | I actually wonder if the metallic light blue started out as that or was actually metallic silver thats faded to blue
I dont think that part was actually colour coded to different interiors, although, I have seen them white as well?
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Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | Hey Mick,
I think they were orginally light blue. All the original panels are the exact same color. Fading might cause a color change but not evenly and on the undersides of all 4 doors. Personally, I have never seen any other 60 Plymouths to compare too and because they are the only part of the car that has this color combo so they don't match anything else on the car and all the panels are being changed, the slight difference in color is OK with me.
I have seen pictures of of other cars and have seen these panels in other different color combos.
Best part is, yesterday, I had all the doors stripped down getting ready to install the panels and got a call that some friends were gathering at the local Inn and were setting on the deck enjoying a cold one so get there quick. Stopped right there, put all the hardware in a box in the back of the car and drove on down. Got there and a bunch of friends and a lot of people were sitting out front in the great weather. darn! I had all the hardware off my doors and the windows were up. I couldn't get out. I didn't even think of think to open it by reaching inside the door shell. I was in an mini panic. Eveyone was looking at me, so I dropped the tailgate window and climbed out the back. How rude. They all thought that was funny.
Later,
Karl. |
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Location: Perth Australia | So do I
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| what did those panels cost u, im thinking of fixing my own ,by replacing the vinyl around the raised center section |
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Location: Perth Australia | I made my own for my dodge, but they dont have the raised parts like those one
The biggest drama you will have is that the vinyl is ultrasonically welded, not stitched, so they wont look the same
I think thats where they get you, an ultrasonic welder is a pretty expensive piece of gear and the dies that you need will be individual to each door trim
I did wonder if it would be possible to replicate the effect by welding a ridge onto a normal iron and using paper between the vinyl and the iron, wether you could weld it that way
I think it would work a bit for straight lines, but curves would be a drama
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Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | I believe it was around $900 original total and then, when they were finished, they tacked on another $80 because of "increased shipping costs". They told me in one email a year ago that they only charge the actual shipping fees. I'll have to look, because the whole box weighed less than 30 lbs. It is less than a foot wide and probably 4' long x 3' tall. I can't believe it cost well over $100 to ship them?
Like stated earlier, after 15 months, they really have you. Whats the average person going to say when they tell you your panels are FINALLY done but its going to cost you more? I can't say no and they allready have my $900 for a product spacifically made for me. |
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Location: ALABAMA, HEART OF DIXIE | udoittwo - they really have you. Whats the average person going to say when they tell you your panels are FINALLY done but its going to cost you more? I can't say no and they allready have my $900 for a product spacifically made for me.
You said the color was off when you received the panels. If you paid with a credit card you could call and have the transaction canceled because the item was not as promised. That will get their attention and after a couple of months they will beg you for a lesser amount. If more folks would do that they may straighten out a little and act like decent businessmen. |
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Location: So. Cal | I like to protect the backside of my new panels by painting them with a good epoxy primer & top coat. You will need to mask the edges to the table to prevent paint from going underneath. Then make sure the plastic seal is really well sealed to the door. |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | If Will would pursue a claim against SMS, (for his having received incorrect-ordered items, he would be required to
return the defective items to the seller.
Don't think that he wants to travel THAT 'avenue', now...
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Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | Honesrly, the panels look great. The color is off some, but, because I am changing all the panels the only one that would ever have know what the original color was, is me. so I am not really concerned with the color. My issue is/was the amount of time and the fact that they can add any extra fee they want on once they told me they were done. What would you do if you waited almost a year and a half for panels that you need to all but finish you car and they add on almost another $100. What do I say "no"? Does anyone else even make these panels? Would it be another year?
I remember the first time I saw a show about car restorations and this gentelman older then myself was getting his car back after years of a total restoration and all I could think of was that he could have been dead by the time he got it back. Obviously this guy had a lot of money and had other things to occupy his time. Unfortunately I don't have much beyond my car and I love driving it. How do some people do it? |
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Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | 60wagonator - 2015-06-04 8:54 PM
I hope mine are that nice.my problem is going to the chrome.i didn't realize you had to take it off your old ones.any idea how you will fasten them Karl?
The most time consuming part is of the whole exchange is putting in the panel clips and then aligning them to the door. If you have never installed these clips in a new panel before, it can be a challenge. You can usually wrestle then on but can chew up the panel in the process. I found a quick way to install the clips as show in the picts. Just set/start the clip, insert a small blade screwdriver and then twist and push it into place. Once I figured that out, it only took a few minutes to install the clips in each panel.
The big problem came when installing the clips into the door. What a bear that is. There has to be a way, but all I was doing was scratching the paint. The holes in the panel are slotted so that at least tells me to put the clips at the end of each slot to rougly align them.
If someone can guide me through aligning the clips to the door, I would appreciate it. There has to be a better way then how I was doing it.
All winter long we got pounded with snow, now we are heading for a heat wave. Please be nice in July!
Later,
Karl.
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| <p>use a little smegma, the black sticky widow kocking that comes in a roll , put a dab every half foot around the back of the panel, then press it on , works great very nice tho, but a year and a half now that's drama , did u ever fix your brakes</p>
Edited by 196061SAVOY 2015-06-10 5:59 PM
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Location: So. Cal | For getting the clips aligned to the door, I usually look at the old panel and orient them the same on the new panel. |
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Location: northern germany | don't use these **** clips! use hd velcro tape. it does a better job. it attaches the panels evenly, panels can be easily removed again and again for servicing the lock/window mechanism and panel alignment is no problem. there is a perfect recession for it in the door. works for me for over 25 years.
Edited by 1960fury 2015-06-10 8:12 PM
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Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada | Great idea Sid about using Velcro. I used self adhesive Velcro strips on my Saratoga panels, because the clip holes were worn out. Works great, but if he has new panels and the holes are in the correct place, there should be no problem lining up the clips to the holes in the door. I've done it so many times I could almost do it blindfolded. As to the clips themselves, I prefer the spring-wire type over the ones he shows in the pictures above. |
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Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | Ah, velcro, it just sounds too easy. Honestly, a couple of the clips, I left out. They didn't come close to the holes and I figured the panels stayed in place with half the clips so 2 out of 20 or so won't hurt.
I'm going to try the 21st century velcro way on one of the panels. If I don't like it, I still have the clips.
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Location: New Brunswick,Canada | I've never had good luck with those clips either Karl.my wagon has the wire clips. I think.i'm worried now that I saw yours without the chrome,I don't know what I was thinking telling Doug I wanted the Fury door panels and I have no trim for them.not good.I do have Belvedere panels.could you post some pics of the finished install?the color of your interior and exterior,are they original? |
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Location: New Brunswick,Canada | I may have some of those black plastic spacers for the cranks if you still need them.we are going to Carlisle I could bring some with me or if your not and live near I-81 I could meet you somewhere.I do have some spare wagon only parts that i'm not using.not much.I parted a custom sub. in Maine a couple of years ago |
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Location: Ontario, Canada | udoittwo - 2015-06-10 8:23 Unfortunately I don't have much beyond my car and I love driving it. How do some people do it?
I don't think you are unfortunate at all! I would say that the vast majority of members on this site ENVY your car!!!
When I first saw it, I thought --- WOW --- where have I been all these years?!!
Greg |
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Location: Ontario, Canada | imopar380 - 2015-06-10 10:11 PM
Great idea Sid about using Velcro. I used self adhesive Velcro strips on my Saratoga panels, because the clip holes were worn out. Works great, but if he has new panels and the holes are in the correct place, there should be no problem lining up the clips to the holes in the door. I've done it so many times I could almost do it blindfolded. As to the clips themselves, I prefer the spring-wire type over the ones he shows in the pictures above.
Like Ian, I always reused the wire clips in all my cars. So, how many hundred clips would that involve?!
The trick is to carefully install the clip in it's (usually) slot, work it little by little until you can move it the length of the slot and be able to turn it around 360 degrees while doing so. They are all offset. This gives an infinite installation range. I always made my own inner cardboard panels from my own patterns. I supplied these to whoever was sewing up the visual surfaces of my door/quarter panels, be it Gary Goers, SMS or my local upholstery shop. The ones that were simply glued, I did myself.
I didn't pretreat my cardboard panels for water proofing. Instead, I made my own plastic water shields from construction grade vapour barrier clear plastic sheeting. I very carefully made my patterns to properly fit the doors and quarters. Masking tape them into place and peal back and contact cement them into their final position. Be sure to tuck the bottom edges into the steel panel slots so that ANY water draining down has to flow into the body and not onto the door panel.
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
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Location: bishop, ca | LOL.....for the inner-panels' "shower curtains", I just cut-and fit 3-M Weatherstripping-glued, plastic garbage bags, to the
door and quarter inner panels.
Altho our cars don't get rain-wet (-often), they do get wash-wet, and so, do need some sort of 'shower curtains' to be installed in them.
ALSO...decades-ago, after I discovered the various-wonderful trunk leakages, via the parcel shelf area's peripheral mounting-
clips, around the base of the back glass....I rigged up a custom-cut and fitted bicycle inner tube to the area where the
leaking/dripping water was entering into the trunk ( a trusted friend with a flashlight, and a garden hose, is needed here...).
That bicycle inner tube was, then, painted red. so its appearance, running OVER the wheel well, and, then, down-and-out the
front of the quarter panel (via a specially made drain hole, in the bottom of the quarter panel), in front of the rear wheel....is essentially, invisible.'
There are no more trunk leakages to contend with, and the inner tube 'fix' is invisible (on a CRL, thanx to the existence of the cardboard
trunk liners)
Edited by d500neil 2015-06-12 4:16 AM
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Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | I looked up the model, trim, and interior colors. I believe all the #s and color patterns are correct and everything was original when I bought my car. It had less than 60,000 on it and it spent well over 20 years in a barn. I know the exterior has Belvedere trim but you are saying the Belvedere panels are different then mine? Again, nothing to compare too?
The interior color is basically the caramel gold on the doors with black trim around the windows. The back[which is rough] is greyish tan/brown. One thing I am really lucky with is the headliner[lite gray] cardboard as it is nice and solid. Allways wondered if there is any way to preserve it? It's nice enough that I wish I had some money and I would use it for a template of some material.
I am paid for the weekend at Carlisile. I might stay at my sister's place Thur. night - Sunday but not sure. She lives a couple miles off a Rt.81 exit a few miles just east of Harrisburg. You'll drive right by. I'm probably towing my boat out to her place, leaving it and then meeting her there the following weekend to drive up to the Canadian border[Alex. Bay, N.Y.]. I guess you'll come down through there also? Got a lot of driving to do in those 2 weeks but I'm looking FORWARD to it. She's running great right now and averaging almost 18MPG towing. That's better than my brother-in-law gets with his 2009 Toyoda SUV.
I would hope those trim pieces wouldn't be extreamly hard to find. Most old salvage yard cars have disintegrated door panels but the trim is stainless and usually survives. The mounting tabs might be shot but that's an easy fix.
I know the clips you're talking about, but what's the advantage of the wire clips?
Oh, don't remember if I mentioned this, but after all the time I spent putting the panel on, I forgot the springs behind the handles. Probably the first person ever to do something like that?
Please let me know what you still have for a Suburban and what you might need for the parts. I am on a real low buget but I will try to find some money if I can find good spare parts. Was your parts car a 2 seater? I would like to find a decent spare tire well cover, as years ago mine was bent when I was working for a brewery and made keg runs for them. Sorry, I use my car.
I've only had time to do the drivers panel and the trim look bent but that's just a reflection.
I am still looking for the plastic handle escutcheons.
Oh well, sorry I always ramble.
Later,
Karl.
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Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | One other piece that I have been trying to find for a while. I guess its called the switch escutcheon around the outside of the tailgate switch key thing. I could never find what it is called in the parts book. I'll include a picture. It is the chrome bezel approx 10" accross around the lock/switch for the pwoer window. Mine was ruined by a company that said they could rechrome it, now I am looking for one good enough to be rechromed. |
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Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | One other piece that I have been trying to find for a while. I guess its called the switch escutcheon around the outside of the tailgate switch key thing. I could never find what it is called in the parts book. I'll include a picture to show the style. It is the chrome bezel approx 10" accross around the lock/switch for the pwoer window. Mine was ruined by a company that said they could rechrome it, now I am looking for one good enough to be rechromed. I think they were used on Chryslers also and in 1961 but not sure as I have seen a couple different styles?
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Location: New Brunswick,Canada | look at the shine on that paint.nice.I have the power window bezel.yours looks mint in the picture.my wagon was a crank so I don't need the power window one.i will dig it out tomorrow.my wife and I are leaving hear on the Tuesday night.that should put us there Wednesday(Carlisle in July) .i'll get a picture and send it to you sunday night.the wagon I parted out was a custom suburban with 3rd row seating and a clock.no roof rack.dang! |
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Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | When I first bought my car, I really wanted a roof rack and then I would try to find a couple old long boards. Never owning a station wagon, I got some California theme in my head. After thinking about it for a few years I'm not so sure I would want one. If you can find one, they can cost between $500-2500. Then if it needs attention, its another $500-1500 for chrome work, ect. and then you have to punch holes in your roof and you better like the look.
Mine bezel looks OK from 10' but if you do a walk around, you can see its all screwed up. It has the vertical lines in it and the chrome shop assured me they could crome it to look great but to remove some pitting, they buffed the lines down and they are now not sharp and all wavy. I would like to have another one and hopefully someday, save up enough and try to find someone that can do a good restoration.
Always wondered, where does the spare gos in a 3rd seater? In front or behind the passenger side wheel? As a kid, I grew up in the 3rd seat of a Chevy station wagon. From my Dad's 1956 Nomad though to his 1970 Kingswood. I look at the hole where the spare goes in my car. There is still several inches on either side. In the Chevys, the rear seat when from one side of the car to the other and you could seat 3 people making them a true 9 passenger. How wide are the Suburban 3rd seats? As I recall, the spare was behind the drivers side rear wheel on the Chevys[really can't remember]? Does a 3rd seat use the same tub for the spare or to change to a 3rd seat, do you need to cut and weld in a new tub?
Again, let me know what all you have left that you don't need. The sooner the better. If I can use any or all of it, it will give me enough time to see if I can dig up some capital.
Later,
Karl. |
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Location: New Brunswick,Canada | I don't have much Karl but I'll check that bezel this morning.i wouldn't want much for it if anything.If I saw your car in person that would do it.the wagon I parted out was beyond gone.i got the power window stuff out of what was left of the tailgate and took all the third row seating but its very rough.the glass was good and I needed a side and some front fender trim.I wonder about the spare tire too.i cant see it going in the quarter panel there would have to be a panel to access the tire ?? don't know.i will try and figure out how to post a pic and send that to you and one of my wagon |
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Location: New Brunswick,Canada | Here is the picture of the bezel.its pitted.if I see you there you can have it I'll never use it.hope this works |
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Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | By the way, what is your name?
Are you taking a Forwardlook car to Carlisle?
If you've never tried to send a picture here before, I believe they need to be under 200KB. Just before you post your message hit the "Attach a file after posting" then post your message and then it will allow you to add your picture.
IF you have a set of the door handle spacers that you can part with, I would like to buy them also. You said you had the glass also? I was going to ask if you wished to sell any of the but I broke a tooth last week and had to get it crowned yesterday. I just can't believe it cost $1700 and it litterally took them 45 minutes. That wiped out any thoughts of anything else.
So, I would like to buy the P.W. escutcheon and if you have them, a set of the 3 or any piece of the plastic door handle/panel protectors that you can spare.
I am old school and don't have a cell phone so I will contact you and we'll figure out a way to meet.
Later,
Karl.
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Location: New Brunswick,Canada | hi again Karl.unfortunately my car is far from done,i do have other Chrysler cars but i'm on a mission to get some parts for this project then we may go to Cape Cod after.we are 15 hrs from Carlisle.i'll try again to send the pic.to be honest I tried from my phone so not surprised it didn't work.1700 for the dentist is highway robbery.we are not covered here for that either and the dentists are making a killing. anyway.I don't want anything for that part and if I have some extra plastic parts i'll bring them along.i'd be scared to sell any of the glass as I wouldn't know when I may need to replace one.do you an email?we are leaving tuesday night and will be in Carlisle on Wednesday evening.we are staying at a camp ground called Western Village.Marty |
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Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | Hey Marty,
If you see this, I will send a Personal Message so we don't need to go back to this thread.
Karl. |
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FINALLY got my SMS door panels[picts]
