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Veteran
Posts: 109
| Hi All,
I recently picked up a 58 Coronet. The car came from the factory fairly stripped except it as power steering. There's a lot of play between the steering wheel and the box. I can't find a good diagram explaining how these are connected. I'm trying to figure out where the play might be coming from, is it the box, is it some kind of coupler, etc. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Sam |
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Expert
Posts: 2996
  
Location: Sept. 1958 | There is a rubber coupler that wears over time, between column and the steering box. |
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Expert
Posts: 1493
Location: Jamaica Plain, MA | About 20 degrees of play in the wheel are normal. First, get a Shop Manual. This car is the first year for a very reliable and widely-used power steering unit, the Constant Control system. The fault could be a number of things, the rubber insulator that goes between the steering shaft and the box is a common, easy to fix fault. $15. You remove the steering wheel, carefully loosen the clamp at the box, loosen the support under the dash, unplug the steering column multi-connector and horn wire, and gently slide the column inwards. Remove the cotter pin at the shaft-to-box coupling. Pull the steering shaft out. See if the rubber insulator is bad. Reverse the procedure to finish up. Other problems could be lash in the box. That can often be resolved by loosening the lock nut on the top of the box and gently turning in the adjuster screw. Do not over tighten or you could cause the box to seize at a bad time... Basically, turn the screw in until it sets, hen back it off 1/4 of a turn. Since this is a safety issue, please refer to a Service Manual, though. |
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Veteran
Posts: 109
| Great info, thanks! I might be around 20 degrees of play but I do want to investigate to play it safe.
So if it is the rubber coupler, is it easy to find online and purchase? As far as the shop manual, I was able to get a service manual which is nice but is there an actual shop or assembly manual out there?
Now while on the topic of steering columns, mine has seen a better day. The turn signal canceller doesn't work very well and the steering wheel itself is falling apart. Are there reproductions or replacement parts for the turn signal and wheel? I'm even willing to swap out the steering wheel but I haven't been able to find a hub adapter for this year. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | The option for your wheel to stay standard is to find a better one (much searching) or get yours recast (depending on its complexity, up to $2000
A sports wheel (to me) looks crap in these cars, best kept for the muscle car era cars
The steering wheels (especially the deluxe ones) are a work of art
As I said, thats my opinion though
I am not against hot rodding at all, but some things are a part of a cars character and most of the cars from this era, the steering wheel is a major part of it
Try the search funtion (Above) for steering coupler and you will find many posts on this subject 
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Veteran
Posts: 109
| Thanks, I did find it in a search.
For the wheel, I don't like the sports wheel either and I would like to keep it original but for the cost of the repair it's hard to justify it right now. There are several companies that mean ring horn style wheels that would look nice on my 58 but no one seems to make an adapter for the stock column, unless I'm missing something.
ttotired - 2015-08-11 10:17 AM
The option for your wheel to stay standard is to find a better one (much searching ) or get yours recast (depending on its complexity, up to $2000
A sports wheel (to me ) looks crap in these cars, best kept for the muscle car era cars
The steering wheels (especially the deluxe ones ) are a work of art
As I said, thats my opinion though
I am not against hot rodding at all, but some things are a part of a cars character and most of the cars from this era, the steering wheel is a major part of it
Try the search funtion (Above ) for steering coupler and you will find many posts on this subject
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1102
Location: Hayward, Calif | Check with JMC Performance in Sacramento, Calif. 714-323-2913 Talk to Jan. His prices were pretty reasonable, but it's been quite awhile since I talked to him. Gary Goers has that little rubber piece that goes between the end of steering column and the P/S box. Jerry
Edited by 59 in Calif 2015-08-11 8:44 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 594
Location: Melbourne, Australia | Sam, is the car running whilst checking for play? Big difference with the pump working/ not working.... colin |
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Veteran
Posts: 109
| No it was not. The engine was off when I tested the play. I was going to make a video later showing this |
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Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: Arizona | When the engine (and pump) aren't running there is about 5 inches (from left to right) of free play. With the pump running almost all of that goes away and you'll have at around an inch to inch and a half of what feels like free play. Much more then you are used to in modern cars. |
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Expert
Posts: 1493
Location: Jamaica Plain, MA | Yeah it should be running. The box under pump pressure picks up a lot of the slack. Finding a used wheel for a 58 Coronet shouldn't be too hard. Post in the Wanted section. You might have to fill some cracks and paint it, but buying a recast or restored one is a waste of money unless you have a clear one. They don't re manufacture the switch assembly, but you can buy one on eBay for $50-$100. They are fairly standard on MoPars for years. Make sure you are careful with the wires. They are safe and reliable once installed, but rather delicate when not in position. That goes for the pot-metal mechanicals, too. The metal is fragile. Take care to keep track of the screws and insulators, they can be hard to find. You don't need an assembly manual, Factory Shop Manual (FSM) and Service Manual are the same thing, provided the Service Manual is the one provided by MoPar and not a Haynes or something. The steering (Constant Control) components were in service for almost 10 years with little variation. The 60-62 Chrysler had different electrics up at the wheel. There may be other variations, but most of the stuff is the same. Aftermarket wheels often come with an adapter, but it won't have auto cancelling, they are a pain to install, and they don't have the right geometry for your car. I'd avoid that option. another note of caution when removing your steering wheel. Most of the time you don;t need a puller. If you undo the nut, as you sit behind the wheel, you can use your knees to pull the wheel towards you. It takes a bit of pressure. The cone washer and spring will also pop out. Be VERY careful of the threads on the steering shaft. They are easily damaged and cross threading them is a drag. Never use a hammer on the steering shaft.I hope this helps.
Edited by JT Vincent 2015-08-12 12:14 PM
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Veteran
Posts: 109
| I'll check with the engine running shortly. I know there's a little play with the engine running but I don't remember how much.
As far as the cone washer and spring, they aren't there. I had the wheel off the other day because it was loose and the horn doesn't work. (The black wire from the horn on the column isn't connected, I didn't see this until I pulled off the wheel) The wheel was pretty loose. I took it off and tried to tighten up the turn signal mechanism. When it's set to the left it is now working fine but to the right it's still very loose and cancels as soon as you touch the wheel.
I made a quick video of the wheel movement without power just so you get an idea of the play
http://s16.photobucket.com/user/samdjr74/media/20150812_134939_zpsyctok9of.mp4.html?sort=3&o=3 |
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Veteran
Posts: 109
| Ok, with the engine running the play is almost eliminated completely. The steering is very light on the car, I assume this is normal? If so it looks like I just need to get used to it. |
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Expert
Posts: 1493
Location: Jamaica Plain, MA | That seems a little sloppy, but I've seen worse. You must replace your conical washer and spring, they take up the slack in the shaft-to body while driving, and without them your horn will never work properly and your steering wheel will have play in it front-to-back. The basic parts are as follows-- pump, belt, hoses, engine pulley, steering box, rubber insulator fir inside column, steering column, steering shaft isolator, steering shaft, cotter pin, clamp from column to steering box, under dash rubber isolator, under dash column clamp, interior column wires and switch for directionals (switch, pot metal thing with a cam, screws, canceling tabs), turn signal lever, horn contact (black thing with copper rolling contact) horn contact plate in the steering wheel (wire coming out from wheel), conical washer, spring, steering shaft nut, steering wheel, horn ring with 3 screws and isolators around the screws, medallion. I'd check your isolator as mentioned earlier, find the needed replacement parts (used are fie and fairly easy to get from one of these guys), get it all together and working. Then look at this Mr. Tech vid about adjusting your box. You don't have to to it as elaborately as these guys do. Just carefully adjust the box and make sure do tighten the lock screw.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUZoxulsiMA
Edited by JT Vincent 2015-08-12 4:14 PM
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Veteran
Posts: 109
| Thanks, my concern right now is I'm missing the spring and washer. I'm going to hunt those down ASAP!
JT Vincent - 2015-08-12 4:13 PM
That seems a little sloppy, but I've seen worse. You must replace your conical washer and spring, they take up the slack in the shaft-to body while driving, and without them your horn will never work properly and your steering wheel will have play in it front-to-back. The basic parts are as follows-- pump, belt, hoses, engine pulley, steering box, rubber insulator fir inside column, steering column, steering shaft isolator, steering shaft, cotter pin, clamp from column to steering box, under dash rubber isolator, under dash column clamp, interior column wires and switch for directionals (switch, pot metal thing with a cam, screws, canceling tabs ), turn signal lever, horn contact (black thing with copper rolling contact ) horn contact plate in the steering wheel (wire coming out from wheel ), conical washer, spring, steering shaft nut, steering wheel, horn ring with 3 screws and isolators around the screws, medallion. I'd check your isolator as mentioned earlier, find the needed replacement parts (used are fie and fairly easy to get from one of these guys ), get it all together and working. Then look at this Mr. Tech vid about adjusting your box. You don't have to to it as elaborately as these guys do. Just carefully adjust the box and make sure do tighten the lock screw.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUZoxulsiMA
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Expert
Posts: 1493
Location: Jamaica Plain, MA | Just post in wanted. John or a number of the fellas can help you. Easy. |
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Veteran
Posts: 109
| Just did a little while ago, thanks! |
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Understanding the 58 Coronet steering set up, need help
