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New User
Posts: 1
| Redoing my brakes. Does anyone sell the brake drum removal tool?
any suggestions? |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8445
    
Location: Perth Australia | you need one that picks up all 5 wheel studs (bolts) as the taper can be almost impossible to crack
The puller does a number of different cars from the era and can normally be found on ebay (but I just looked and didnt find one)
Avoid the cheap 3 or 4 leg ones as you might get bitten by breaking it or damaging the axle
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Expert
Posts: 4051
Location: Connecticut | csmotorworks - 2015-06-13 10:42 PM Redoing my brakes. Does anyone sell the brake drum removal tool? any suggestions? Here it is on ebay. I've never had problems with the 3-leg pullers. Just be sure that the shaft is centered on the axle. Ron |
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Expert
Posts: 1906
Location: Ontario, Canada | Yeah, I agree, Ron.
I've pulled more drums with a 3 leg puller than most of these guys have ever seen!!! Most out of junkyards and down in the mud and water for decades!!
Only two things matter. First, remove the cotter pin,back off the axle nut and remove the washer, re thread the nut onto the axle shaft Backwards until it is flush with the end of the axle shaft.
Very carefully, centre and test tighten the puller making sure it is pulling in an ABSOLUTELY straight line. THis will take a couple tries.
With the nut at the end, the threads are protected. The thickness of the washer will allow the release of the drum.
Go ahead and beat on the radial puller arms with all you have!! If necessary, walk away from it overnight, I'll bet that in the morning the drum will have released!!!
Never, never, beat on the axial end of the puller! Abuse in this direction will frequently damage ,"gall", the supposedly case hardened inner axle shaft chamfer bearing race seat.
Over many years of restoring these cars, this "inner bearing race seat damage" has cost me a hell of a lot of time and trouble!!
I could post pics if anyone wants.
Greg
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9703
Location: So. Cal | I like this one from Snap-on or Blue-Point better. I have never had to smack on them more than once with these. And I like to get all 5 legs for them to even out the pressure.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SNAP-ON-HUB-AXLE-PULLER-4567-G-IN-SNAP-ON-M...
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1930s-Vintage-Blue-Point-Snap-On-4567-G-Hub...
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 $_57.JPG (112KB - 224 downloads)
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Expert
Posts: 3780
Location: NorCal |
Never used one myself but lots of folks here swear by the Fairbanks puller.
http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/fairbanks/puller.html |
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Expert
Posts: 1906
Location: Ontario, Canada | 57chizler - 2015-06-14 4:42 PM
Never used one myself but lots of folks here swear by the Fairbanks puller.
That looks like the one I made before I found a "professional" puller in the trunk of a parts car I bought. I used it for a number of years. Worked great but was getting bent because I just made it from mild steel. It is a lot easier to simply tighten a few nuts than try to get those clumsy "professional" ones centered and hammer on them
Greg |
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Expert
Posts: 1231
Location: York County, PA | I've pulled all my drums off with the 3 leg puller. First time off they were always jammed, tighten as tight as you can, smack with 12# hammer, off the come with a little wiggeling.
Very seldom have I had to do that more than twice on a wheel. As long as you are straight you don't need to worry about bending the axel.
Edited by ruchaven 2015-11-17 7:28 PM
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Expert 5K+
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Expert
Posts: 1348
Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | I just, and for me for the very first time, pulled my rear drums. I used a 3 legs but previously, my garage that did the rear brake work because they had a puller, put copper never-seize on the hubs. They came off nicer than I expected with a fair amount of torque and a mild snap. Funny thing was, after the hub moved, I removed the puller, backed off the nut a little and wiggled the drum to be sure it was totally loose and to my surprize, the drum popped off, leaving the hub on the axle. I never knew that somone had allready seperated the drum from the hub.
My question is, once the drum is removed from the hub, is there ever a need again to pull the hub? IF I were to replace an axle bearing or seal, can I simply remove the drum and pull the axle and hub and service the parts behind the hub? In other words, like my GTO axle with the hub being permenent on the axle? |
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Expert
Posts: 3780
Location: NorCal | mikes2nd - 2015-11-17 8:34 PM
Wtf did chrysler make a hub you had to have a puller to get it off for!!!????
Chrysler wasn't the only one, tapered axles were pretty common prior to the fifties. |
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Expert
Posts: 3780
Location: NorCal | udoittwo - 2015-11-18 6:15 AM
My question is, once the drum is removed from the hub, is there ever a need again to pull the hub? IF I were to replace an axle bearing or seal, can I simply remove the drum and pull the axle and hub and service the parts behind the hub? In other words, like my GTO axle with the hub being permenent on the axle?
Separating the drum/hub is only useful for doing brake work, to access the wheel bearings/seals you still need to remove the hub. |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13055
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | To separate the drums from the hubs is a good thing - you'll be able to service the brakes even by the roadside without special Tools. The hubs needs to be pulled off in case of servicing the bearings/seals only.
The drum centers well on the hub, but I use to drill a reference hole in the drum and a small contersink in the hub, the contersink is then painted.
Since I Place the holes in different positions on the left and right drum, there will be no possibilities to misplace the drums. Eventual drum/hub balancing will remain the same.
See pictures below
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IMG_9601_red.jpg (123KB - 167 downloads)
IMG_9602_red.jpg (134KB - 197 downloads)
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Veteran
Posts: 253
| AS indicated above, a bunch of vehicles required this drum puller -- Studebakers, Jeeps & Willys, Ramblers, in addition to the MOPAR world....
It is still sold BRAND NEW at a good tool distributor.... If you don't have one in your area -- and want a NEW one --
Call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935... New York.... |
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Expert
Posts: 4051
Location: Connecticut | So here's a question: How often do you expect to remove the rear drums after doing a brake job ? If your car is used frequently, maybe once every five or six years ? So is it really necessary to go thru this procedure ? I did a brake job in 2008 on my 58 Plymouth. Haven't had a need to remove the drums since then. I'm a fan of not doing this, as you risk drum vibration upon hard braking if the wheel bolt holes end up peened out after de-swedging the bolts. Ron |
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Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: Arizona | I wonder the same thing. Lots of people go 90K on rear brakes before ever pulling the drums. My PT has 60K on it and the dealers safety inspection indicates no need for redoing them yet. |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13055
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | I re-check and clean the brakes once a year. The re-check is a safety measure and this is what I do;
- remove the drums and inspect the inside for eventual damage, Clean and drying the drums.
- remove the brake shoes and inspect them for lining and eventual damage
- check the brake return springs
- check the centerplane with adjusters
- open the dust booths on the brake cylinders and check for fluid leakage
- check for leaks from the rear wheel bearings
- cleaning and remounting of all parts
- adjustment of the brakes
- bleeding of all brake cylinders
Also
- remove the front wheel bearings, inspect, clean, new wheel bearing grease and adjustment
When you drive a lot and fast, you want to ensure yourself that the brake system is ok. |
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Expert
Posts: 1348
Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | Pennsylvania has a yearly complete car inspection and it is required that all brakes be physically inspected. When I first started driving, it was full inspections twice a year. What a scam that was.
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Location: Under the X in Texas | ttotired - 2015-06-13 10:15 PM you need one that picks up all 5 wheel studs (bolts) as the taper can be almost impossible to crack The puller does a number of different cars from the era and can normally be found on ebay (but I just looked and didnt find one) Avoid the cheap 3 or 4 leg ones as you might get bitten by breaking it or damaging the axle I've been using one three legged puller for the last 40 years and lent it out many times too to shops and to friends. Never broke. Never failed to remove a drum. |
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Location: Under the X in Texas | mobileparts - 2015-11-19 1:09 PM AS indicated above, a bunch of vehicles required this drum puller -- Studebakers, Jeeps & Willys, Ramblers, in addition to the MOPAR world.... It is still sold BRAND NEW at a good tool distributor.... If you don't have one in your area -- and want a NEW one -- Call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935... New York.... Also Hudson and Terraplane and Kaiser and Fraser and '48 and earlier Fords ! |
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Veteran
Posts: 253
| Correct -- I didn't go through the whole list, but they, of course, use them also -- and more....
And, here on Long Island, I LOAN mine out all the time -- my friend Bill has it now for a 1942 - 1948 Ford set up on a 1923 T-Bucket....
Everyone says I should RENT it --- but I won't --- I will LOAN it...... |
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Rear Drum Removal Tool......57 Plymouth
