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Expert
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Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | I know I asked about what years rears made the easiest interchange with my 60 Plymouth. But that was a while back and I find it's just easier to ask again rather than go back searching.
I was stopped yesterday and asked about my car. He said he has a drum to drum rear from a 1966 Fury. He wants $100 for it. Is this the one i want for a swap?
Thanks again for your time,
Karl. |
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Expert
Posts: 1740
Location: Alaska | The rear I am using is from a 67 Chrysler which is the same dimensions as the 66 Fury rear end. This is one of the best to use, maybe an inch wider overall and you may not have to move the spring mounts. Be sure to measure pinion angle. |
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Expert
Posts: 3778
Location: NorCal |
The '66 C-body rear is a perfect swap for a '60 Plymouth; same spring pad spacing, same pinion angle, should be the same u-joint. The '66 rear end is 7/8" wider overall than the '60. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1102
Location: Hayward, Calif | I got my rear end ass'y out of a 68 Fury II, put it in a 59 Dodge. I did have to have the spring mounts moved 5/16" It sets under there nicely with plenty of tire clearance, even with a 225/75R15 mounted on the axel. Jerry
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Expert
Posts: 1348
Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | Just wondering what the difference is, I believe he said "Fury III" and someone said "Fury II" What does the II and III stand for, just gernerations? Were Fury II and IIIs made the same time? Sorry, really MOPAR ignorant.
Never having a vehicle with the parking brake on the driveshaft before this Suburban, I like it and it holds great. Is it much of a swap to use the drum e-brakes or is it really not worth it? |
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Expert
Posts: 1740
Location: Alaska | The Fury I, II ,and III were just different trim levels on the same model car. When adjusted properly, the E-brake on the trans. worked well as does the e-brake using the rear shoes. You could install the newer rear and just tie the cables up out of sight if you want, otherwise you would have to connect your existing e-brake cable to the new rear cables. It is your choice. |
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Expert
Posts: 1348
Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | Thanks for the info. What was the last year for the drive shaft e-brake?
Thanks again and i think, weather I do the swap or not, I will grab the rear anyway. For $100, it should be worth it?
Later,
Karl. |
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Expert
Posts: 3778
Location: NorCal |
On full-sized cars, '62 was the last year for the tailhousing-mounted parking brake.
$100 for a complete rear end is an outstanding price. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1102
Location: Hayward, Calif | I haven't got to the brake cable conversion yet, but hoping I can find another Fury and get the parking brake cable ass'y from the inside of car to where it connects with axel cables, as the trans drum cable is not nearly long enough. Just a thought, will cross that bridge when I get to it. Jerry |
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Veteran
Posts: 295
Location: Rochester, NY | Great thread here...could I hijack it just for a moment to ask if this 66 Fury rear end would work for a 58 Plymouth Belvedere as well? My Belv has a 64 318 engine and trans in it...thus I do not have a parking brake on the end of the trans...so car has no parking brake at all at the moment. I too would like the option of putting a later rear end in it so I can hook up a parking brake/emergency brakes, on the rear wheels. What years C-body cars have the proper rear?
Thanks...Bob |
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Expert
Posts: 1740
Location: Alaska | This 66 rear would also be excellent as a swap into the 57-59 mopars also, needing very little or no mods to fit. |
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Expert
Posts: 3778
Location: NorCal | furvedere - 2015-09-22 7:37 AM
What years C-body cars have the proper rear?
Thanks...Bob
'65-'69 C-bodies (except the '69 wagon) are the closest to a drop-in fit in the '57-'61 FL cares. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 6500
Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) |
Mopar Rear Axle Dimensions
All measurements are from drum to drum:
1966-1972 A-body 57-1/8?
1962-1963 B-body 58-1/2?
1964-1967 B-body 59-1/2?
1970-1971 Imperial 59-3/4?
1968-1970 B-body 60-1/8?
1970-1974 E-body 61-5/8?
1965-1969 C-body and 1965-1970 A100 Vans 61-3/4?
1965-1966 Imperial 62?
1967-1969 Imperial 62-5/16?
1970-1971 C-body and 1971-1974 B-body 63?
1965-1971 D100 pickup 64?
1969 C-body wagony and 1971-1973 B-body wagon 64-3/8?
1970-1973 C-body and 1972-1974 D100 pickup 64-3/8?
Spring perch widths (center-to-center)
BODY ’66-’73: 43?
B BODY ’62-’70: 44?
’71-’74: 47.3?
C BODY ’65-’73: 46?
E BODY ’70-’74: 46?
Rear end widths, drum-to-drum:
A BODY ’66-’72: 57-1/8?
B BODY ’62-’63: 58-1/2? (And ’64 Max Wedge)
’64: 60-7/8? (Exc.Max Wedge)
’65-’67: 59-1/2?
’68-’70: 60-1/8?
’71-’74: 63?
’71-’73 wagon: 64-3/8?
C BODY ’65-’69: 61.75?
’70-’71: 63.0? (Chrysler & Fury)
’70-’73: 64-3/8? (and ’69 wagon)
IMPERIAL ’65-’66: 61-15/16?
’67-’69: 62-5/16?
’70-’71: 59-3/4?
’72-’73: 64-9/16?
E BODY ’70-’74: 61-5/8?
A100 ’65-’70: 61-3/4?
D100 ’65-’71: 63-15/16?
’72-’74: 64-3/8?
8-3/4? Axle Shaft Lengths, measured from the splined end to outside flange end:
A BODY ’66-’72: 27-11/16?
B BODY ’65-’67: 28-7/8?
’68-’70: 29 3/16?
’71-’74: 30-5/8?
’71-’73 wagon: 31-21/64?
C BODY ’65-’69: 30?
’70-’71: 30 5/8? (Chrysler & Fury)
’70-’73: 31-21/64? (and ’69 wagon)
IMPERIAL (Large Bolt Pattern) ’65-’66: 30-1/8?
’67-’69: 30-5/16?
’70-’71: 29?
’72-’73: 31-7/16?
E BODY ’70-’74: 29-31/32?
A100 ’65-’70: 30?
D100 ’65-’71: 31-1/8?
’72-’74: 31-21/64
8-3/4? Housing Widths, flange to flange
A BODY ’66-’72: 52-5/8?
B BODY ’62-’63: 53-1/4? (And ’64 Max Wedge)
’64 : 55-5/8? (Exc. Max Wedge)
’65-’67: 54-1/4?
’68-’70: 54-15/16?
’71-’74: 57-7/8?
’71-’73 wagon: 59-7/16?
C BODY ’65-’69: 56 3/4?
’70-’71: 57 7/8? (Chrysler & Fury)
’70-’74: 59 7/16? (and ’69 wagon)
IMPERIAL ’65-’66: 57?
’67-’69: 57 3/8?
’70-’71: 54 3/4?
’72-’73: 59 5/8?
E BODY ’70-’74: 56 31/64?
A100 ’65-’70: 56 3/4?
D100 ’65-’71: 58 5/16?
’72-’74: 59 7/16?
http://www.bigblockmopar.nl/tech/mopar-rearaxle-dimensions/
Marc. |
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Expert
Posts: 3778
Location: NorCal |
Why all the question marks behind the dimensions? The data is correct as pirated from the Moparts board.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/16.html |
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Veteran
Posts: 131
| there are a couple of links & lists in a thread I started a while back, if it helps...
http://forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=57109&post...
Edited by oldhippie 2015-09-24 1:46 PM
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Regular
Posts: 90
Location: Oklahoma | udoittwo - 2015-09-14 7:46 AM
Just wondering what the difference is, I believe he said "Fury III" and someone said "Fury II" What does the II and III stand for, just gernerations? Were Fury II and IIIs made the same time? Sorry, really MOPAR ignorant.
Never having a vehicle with the parking brake on the driveshaft before this Suburban, I like it and it holds great. Is it much of a swap to use the drum e-brakes or is it really not worth it?
The way I see it is on the tailshaft, the brake holding power is multiplied by the gear ratio in the rear end. If you have 2.93 gears, the brake holds 2.93 times stronger than at the wheel. However, there are 2 on the rear, so if there is a problem with one, you don't lose it all. Dodge put them on their RV's decades after the 50's. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | Tailshaft brakes are great provided you dont loose traction on one wheel because of the diff action, the other wheel will just start turning
I guess thats why the factory supplied wheel chocks, not just for jacking
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I was offered a 66 Fury III rear. Is this a good rear for swap?
