|
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
  
Location: Southern California | any tips? are they easy to take out and replace? I bought some new front shocks I want to install thanks. |
|
| |
|
Temporarily suspended to cool off
Posts: 316
| way easy... get the suspension dangling against the lower stop, ubolt the bottom, slide it out, unbolt the top, they often just fall out from there, if they are totally shot. Now gas charged shocks can complicate this is they are still holding pressure. You'll want a set of vice grips available, because often times when removing the top nut the shaft can go to spinning round and round with the nut. but, there is a flat on the top, put vice grips there. Giving the threads a good brush with a wire brush and some lubrication isn't a bad idea either to make things go smoother. The bottom bolt can get rusty enough that it just snaps off in some cases, no big deal, off the shelf nuts and bolts will do the job if that happens. Some shocks come with a new bolt/nut for the bottom, use it.
Now with gas shocks, you can end up having to take a ball joint loose to get it out as you do need to be able to compress the shock. Now an oil filled unit can be easily compressed with just hand pressure and it'll stay compressed once you have it compressed. Gas shocks can be another story. If that's the case, Harbor Freight sell a tool that makes splitting ball joints way way way too easy.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-sep...
It's dirt stinkin' cheap and man does it work. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: Arizona | I'm not seeing why you'd need to drop the ball joint to remove the shock. As I recall it falls out the bottom once the two bottom bolts are removed and the top nut is removed. Am I forgetting something? |
|
| |
|
Temporarily suspended to cool off
Posts: 316
| Gas shocks can be a bas***d to compress, thus, if someone has installed gas shocks in the car (which you shouldn't do but some people do anyway) you can end up needing to split a ball joint to get the stud on the top out of the hole because you can't compress the shock. Some of those gas charged shocks have a good deal of pressure in them and that makes them self expand. No forward look car ever came with or should ever have gas charged shocks, but, if you think people don't do it.... You can never tell what a previous owner has done to a car till you get in there.
If the shocks are normal hydraulic units, or totally shot gas charged units, they will of course pratically fall out. |
|
| |
|
User has resigned from board
| <p>I use Gabriel classic shocks, 22$ a pair, to install, I compress the shock, tie the compressed shock down with some electrical wire , I make a loop around the shock, then slide it up and in, then cut the wire and it will expand up through the top hole, to remove I use a screwdriver and push the top stud down though the hole, if polybun frowns on using gas charged shocks, what does he recommend name, part number</p>
Edited by 196061SAVOY 2015-12-16 10:30 PM
|
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2490
Location: Kansas City, KS | If installing new shocks - I just take a grinder and cut off that top nut and the exposed part of the shaft. It's usually a rusty pain in the ass anyway.
This gives enough clearance to pull the shock out even if it's extended.
No need to ever separate the ball joint.
To install the new one, I do exactly what 196061SAVOY said above with the wire. |
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 7401
Location: northern germany | never had to separate a ball joint, even with gas charged shocks, including kyb's, which are pretty stiff. |
|
| |
|
Location: Under the X in Texas | Have installed MANY sets of gas shocks in torsion bar '57 and up Mopar front suspensions. I have no idea why this 'should never be done'. Every car was improved in control and handling. Never disassembled a ball joint to do so. On some cars the lower shock eye mounting bracket can be unbolted from the lower control arm and makes it easier. I too am a fan of KYB Gas-a-Just shocks. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | Remove the bumpstop under the upper control arm first so the LCA can drop bit lower.
But I never have much trouble installed gas charged shocks in a Mopar. Just leave nylon strip on them and only cut that when you're reading to aim the top end stud through the hole.
Then remove it again to install the lower rubber bushing you just forgot... 
|
|
| |
|
Temporarily suspended to cool off
Posts: 316
| how did you know! |
|
| |
|
Temporarily suspended to cool off
Posts: 316
| the gas shocks I bought usually came with a wire...
I've always been told not to use gas charged shocks... I did it anyway because I never listen.... |
|
| |
|
Temporarily suspended to cool off
Posts: 316
| I don't know why you shouldn't either, My front end guy always flipped me crap for using them. I suppose higher dampening rates could put more load on the shock mounts, but I wouldn't think enough extra load to do any harm. |
|
| |
|
User has resigned from board
| shocks2springs.com 800-344-1966 or 970-513-8283 suspension specialist since 1936, they show selling hydraulic front/ rear shocks for the 57-61 Chrysler/dodge/Plymouth/Desoto. and other goodies. someone with more phone finness than me ,should give them a call, and report back on what the price is for a set of there hydraulic shocks |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 272
Location: Missouri | I installed gas shocks on my '55 Coronet, that are actually for an earlier Co**ette, and they seem to work fine. I just had to enlarge the slots in the crossbar (not sure how the shock bottom differs between the 55-56 and the 57-60 Mopars), for the 2 stock bolts per side to fit. |
|
| |
how do i remove front shock absorbers 60 chrysler?
