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Starts fine cold. Wont fire hot Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Engine, Exhaust, Fuel and Ignition | Message format |
57belvederepa |
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Member Posts: 21 Location: Kutztown Pennsylvania | I have an 57 belvedere with a 301. Engine cranks fine and starts perfectly cold ,but after a 5 minute drive it wont fire or even try to fire. It may pop every once an a while.it has fuel. It has spark at spark plug. Im not sure how strong the spark is though. I set base timing. I filed ,checked ,and set point gap. I replaced condenser ,plug wires ,plugs, and coil. It doesnt matter if i put battery charger on batt.i noticed the coil gets very hot after a drive,but i swapped out the old coil when that coil is cold and it doesnt make a difference. I have yet to do a compression test. I know the car has a lot of blowby so i made a pcv setup just to hold me over until winter to rebuild the engine. I replaced the wire ends at the coil since they were corroded. I have the ballast resistor bypassed for now. How can i test the resistor? Any help is appreciated! | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6513 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | 1-1.2. Not over 1.5 Most meters are not accurate the lower the resistance gets. Short your probes together and see what the meter reads You cannot "short" a ballast to less than it was originally built. If your meter checks it at zero, it's good. This is because they are a wire wound resistance. There is simply no way that they can FAIL with substantially less resistance than they were manufactured with. Usually, a ballast either fails "open" or "intermittent," IE it's broken inside and makes contact some of the time. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/ballast-resistor-resist... http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/paint-body/mopp-1110-ballast-resistor-... https://www.google.com/search?q=testing+ballast+resistor+mopar&biw=1... Edited by mstrug 2016-06-10 9:49 PM | ||
BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands | A coil getting too hot to touch is usually getting too much current and will short out inside. Bridging the ballast resistor can/will cause this also. (But if the wiring and connectors are old enough, there can be enough resistance in the electrical system to bridge the ballast for a while, to have much effect, other than the engine keeps running.) Most old coils don't want to see more than 7-9 volts when the engine is running. Don't forget the condenser can fail too in the distributor and can cause intermittend issues. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3780 Location: NorCal | 57belvederepa - 2016-06-10 6:01 PM I have an 57 belvedere with a 301. Engine cranks fine and starts perfectly cold ,but after a 5 minute drive it wont fire or even try to fire. It may pop every once an a while.it has fuel. It might not be ignition related, might be fuel. After that 5-minute drive, shut it off and look down the carburetor throat with a flashlight to see if fuel is running from the carb into the intake manifold and causing flooding. | ||
57belvederepa |
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Member Posts: 21 Location: Kutztown Pennsylvania | Thanks , i will check that | ||
57belvederepa |
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Member Posts: 21 Location: Kutztown Pennsylvania | I checked spark with timing light on all cylinders and coil. It flashes when cranking. I checked compression on all cylinders and its only 50-80 psi . I squirted some oil in cylinders and it goes up to 150 psi. I guess that means rings are shot? Hard to believe this is causing it not to start at times especially since it has good power when cruising. | ||
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