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Anyone with experience removing swedged Mopar Studs correctly/safely?
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56D500boy
Posted 2021-11-12 7:25 PM (#616761)
Subject: Anyone with experience removing swedged Mopar Studs correctly/safely?



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One of my long term projects is to finally remove the right rear drum on my 56 Dodge with the 12" x 2.5" Chrysler brakes. Sometime ago, I bought a Left rear drum from Don Petty (with the L hand thread studs).

I would like to remove the LH studs and replace them with either used RH thread studs from the OE right front drum that I replaced in November 2016 or new studs (probably Dorman). Back when I got the LR drum from Don, I tried for about 10 seconds to pound one of the studs out. Fail. I thought that I was either too weak or my hammer wasn't big enough. So I quit.

I had no clue until today, watching various stud removal and replacement videos that the OE studs were probably "swedged" into the drum, i.e. back in the factory, after the studs were installed and a swedging tool was used to crimp the exposed bit of the knurled part of the stud and effectively rivet the stud and hub/drum together.

As a result, in order to properly (as I understand it) remove the swedged studs in my LR drum that I want to use on the right rear (without confusing LH and RH thread issues even more), I would first have to cut the swedged part of the stud away - and then I could press (or hammer) the stud out.

I watched a video this afternoon wherein a guy used a "proper" swedge cutter to prepare for stud removal but I was appalled by the over size cut that he made with the tool. Either he had the wrong sized tool or ??. Either way, I don't want to go down that road. Too much drum got cut away for my tastes.

This video (fast forward to about 9:30 to watch the start of the carnage):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi_FrxpeSi0

Some screen shots shown below.

Then I poked around some more and found a thread on the HAMB that suggested that using an 11_16ths or 5_8ths metal hole saw with a copper spacer over the stud (to keep the hole saw centered was a better solution). At least I think it is better (less carnage and damage to the drum). I would use the smallest hole saw that fit over the stud.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/swedge-cutting-tool-lug-...

I found a video using an 11/16ths hole saw and no Spacer on a 66 Plymouth drum.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pTsQsKp4mw

Just curious what others have done (or not):





Edited by 56D500boy 2021-11-12 7:46 PM




(UsingAProper SwedgeCutter_1.jpg)



(UsingAProper SwedgeCutter_2.jpg)



(SwedgeCuttingWithA_5_8ths_HoleSaw_1.jpg)



(SwedgeCuttingWithA_5_8ths_HoleSaw_2.jpg)



(SettingUpToCutSwedgeWithAn_11_16ths_HoleSaw_NoInnerSpacer.jpg)



(PressingOutTheDeSwedged66PlymouthDrumStud.jpg)



(66PlymouthDrumShowingRelativeLackOfCarnageAfterUsing_11_16ths_HoleSawToCutTheStudSwedge.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments UsingAProper SwedgeCutter_1.jpg (99KB - 125 downloads)
Attachments UsingAProper SwedgeCutter_2.jpg (104KB - 127 downloads)
Attachments SwedgeCuttingWithA_5_8ths_HoleSaw_1.jpg (159KB - 123 downloads)
Attachments SwedgeCuttingWithA_5_8ths_HoleSaw_2.jpg (172KB - 119 downloads)
Attachments SettingUpToCutSwedgeWithAn_11_16ths_HoleSaw_NoInnerSpacer.jpg (74KB - 129 downloads)
Attachments PressingOutTheDeSwedged66PlymouthDrumStud.jpg (90KB - 122 downloads)
Attachments 66PlymouthDrumShowingRelativeLackOfCarnageAfterUsing_11_16ths_HoleSawToCutTheStudSwedge.jpg (59KB - 125 downloads)
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dels56
Posted 2021-11-13 10:40 AM (#616779 - in reply to #616761)
Subject: Re: Anyone with experience removing swedged Mopar Studs correctly/safely?


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Good day Dave, I tried to post this last night but ran out of battery.
When I was young and working on the bench in a Chrysler dealership I recall replacing brake drums. Remember we were on Flat Rate so everything done was a s quick as it could be, time was money.
We would cut the stud off with an angle grinder and clean it up as close to the drum as possible and probably touched the drum a bit. Center punched a mark dead center of the nice shiny portion of the stud remaining id the drum. Then drill a 1/4" hole about 1/2" deep. This was to allow the stud to collapse enough to be able to push the stud out. I probably never questioned this method as that was the way it was done. There was a sleeve that fit over the head of the stud to support the drum as you pressed the stud out. Some times a Swinging Press was used to speed the process up. I don't recall exactly how much it took to push the stud out or what the Hub look like after the fact. The same sleeve was use on the opposite side to press the new stud in. As I recall the new drums slipped on over the stud but I don't remember swedgeing the new stud. We must have as the new drums would have had to be turned. May be we just put a nut on the stud to hold the drum in place, I don't know? This is not the case when just replacing the studs.

When I get back to working on my 56 in the spring I have intend to replace all the stud in right and left with right had thread studs. As I recall, from an earlier thread posted the O.E. stud knurl/spline measures 0.622" O.D. . the Dorman stud you quoted measures 0.623" O.D. I have purchased the the Dorman studs and have new nuts and will proceed with the method as described above unless these is a better way of doing the job.

Just an after thought, rather than 1/4" hole why not a bit larger...like 3/8" or ???

Del S.
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57chizler
Posted 2021-11-13 3:43 PM (#616795 - in reply to #616761)
Subject: RE: Anyone with experience removing swedged Mopar Studs correctly/safely?



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Posts: 3778
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Location: NorCal		If you're not gonna reuse the stud, cut the swedges with a 9/16" hole saw.
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