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62 chrysler emergency brake sticking Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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1962-300-413 |
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Member Posts: 35 Location: Brooklyn, NY | I have the factory manual, but it says you need a puller to remove the emergency brake drum. I was hoping someone has done it without one. I do have a steering wheel puller which works on balancers also, but don't know if it'll work on this. I also have the rear hub puller too. Thank you in advance, any help would be appreciated!! | ||
1962-300-413 |
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Member Posts: 35 Location: Brooklyn, NY | I have checked, it's sticking in the drum, the Emergency Brake pedal assembly is working fine, last time I couldn't move the car, I crawled under and banged on the drum a while and it loosened. Good thing I live on flat ground. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7409 Location: northern germany | all i can tell you you don't need a puller for the 60/61 emergency drums. | ||
61plymy |
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Expert Posts: 2824 Location: Snohomish, WA. | 62 was the same. You don't need a puller although it might be a bit easier with one. Probably your cable is binding, or the actuating arm is jammed inside the drum. If the drum is deeply scored and the shoes are being pushed into the drum surface, it might be a bit dicey getting the drum off, as the shoes will tend to lock it in place when actuated. Try spinning the drum as you work it off. It may help. Mike | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7409 Location: northern germany | if 62 was the same, try to back off the brake shoes first. there is a little window in the dustshield that gives you acces to the brake shoe adjusting screw, but its a bit hard to reach/turn. | ||
Fanbladeus |
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Expert Posts: 1218 Location: Warren, Michigan | When I swapped mine over from my old tranny to my new one on my '58 I had to fabricate an imobilization tool to keep it from spinning. An old pizza with 5 precisely drilled holes did the trick. Other than that I just adjusted the shoes in using the wheel through the access hole in the back. Removed the large nut (1 1/16th inch from what I remember) and presto a little wiggle wiggle and out she popped. Seeing as how my tranny was already pulled you probably wouldn't need to imobilize the drum as its still hooked up to the motor. Also, I had the cable unhooked too. You might want to do that to ensure its not putting tension on the shoes causing it to lock up. I used a long pair of needle nose and a straight-head screw driver to pop it off through that access hole. If you need to borrow my immobilzation pizza pan, let me know! I'm in Michigan if you cover shipping and will return it I'm up for it. Thanks, --Joe | ||
1962-300-413 |
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Member Posts: 35 Location: Brooklyn, NY | thanks for the comments, today is my day off so I'll need to fix it today. I need it working for Sunday at Englishtown NJ, they have the Old Time Drags and Rod Run which is fun. | ||
1962-300-413 |
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Member Posts: 35 Location: Brooklyn, NY | I was real busy at work with no time to respond to the answers. The hardest part was getting the big nut off that holds the drum on, I used a long handle 1/2" breaker bar, and I held the drum using an angled pry bar between a few studs. I left the nuts on 2 studs so no to damage the threads. The drum slipped right off. The problem was both brake linings totally separated from the shoe and i guess they were jamming up the works. For now I gutted the e-brake assembly till I get new shoes, no parking on hills , and I carry a few blocks of wood to chock the wheels. | ||
61plymy |
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Expert Posts: 2824 Location: Snohomish, WA. | Just so you know....... A 62 Chrysler in the Jersey area is a little too close for comfort here, Raphael. But I hope you do OK. Mike | ||
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